All TS members please read and help

[nocturnal_demon_13]

Warning:This is along post.
I ordered PowerSlot rotors from FrozenRotors dot com and they got here today. I bought Hawk HPS pads to pair them up. The rotors are cryogenically treated and they are slotted. I got out of school and went to a brake-alignment-suspension-tire shop that has done great alignments for my family in the past, so I decided to go there and have them install my new rotors and pads and the 5100 bilsteins I had sitting here for awhile now, also since I noticed in other posts that once new rotors were installed they would do most of the braking and the rear drums needed to be adjusted, lubed, cleaned...so I had them do that too.. To make stories short, after waiting about an hour and 15 minutes, the guy who did the install said he would take the truck for a test drive to make sure everything was okay. He came back and I couldn't wait to get in the truck and not experience my warped rotor feeling ever again. (I had warped rotors and crystallized pads, they made a horrible squeal at low speeds in reverse and the whole truck vibrated coming off the highway to a complete stop, the vibration came from the front not the rear drums.) He came up to me and said the shocks were great and that my rotors were WARPED?! I couldn't believe it...and I still am in disbelief. He said that he had installed many rotors and a lot of them are oftentimes warped because they sit there at a warehouse for such along time and he also said it could have been the improper handling by UPS on the shipment or another cause could be that they were sitting unevenly for a long time. I don't know whether this is BS but it smells like it because Powerslot rotors are premium rotors and plus they have been cryogenically treated by Diversied Cryogenics over at FrozenRotor.com. to prevent warpage plus these are new! Anyways, I got into the truck and started to do the break in procedure and when I started to accelerate it didn't feel the same. The way the truck rode, it wasn't as smooth, it's hard to explain, it felt as if the was a lump in the tire and part of the brakes was very slightly rubbing against a certain part of the pad. The shop closed at 5pm and the guy who did the install took off right after he did the install but before he took off he said that I should give FrozenRotors a call and tell them that my rotors are warped(is this possible? I don't want to call them up for something stupid assuming the so called certified mechanic was right?) As I was riding I decided to go to Discount Tire Co.(America's Tire Shop in the east) because I have heard that the wheels must be put back on properly because the tundra is lugcentric or hubcentric and that could cause vibration. They gladly took a look at it and they said they didn't specialize in brakes so they couldn't help determine if that was the problem, which I still doubt because when I brake from 30-35 down to 10-5 I don't feel the brakes not working properly. They only checked to see if the bolts had been torqued to the right amount and not overtorqued and the tires were correctly mounted. They only came up with some odd excuse that the tires were bad because of some cracking on the thread close to the edge and the thread was prematurely doing something I don't recall, anyways it sounded like he was trying to sell me tires that I don't think were the problem because before the installation they rode well and smooth...he said it could have been a coincidence that it just started acting up after the new brakes. Sounds like more BS. I wanted them to check and see if they were properly mounted but they were closing and even though I mentioned it they didn't take the wheels off and put them back on to check if that was the problem. I took the truck for a ride on the highway since it is the flattest and smoothest ride compared to the streets around here and after the beginning acceleration which didn't feel normal it disappeared from the 40-60mph range but then when I accelerated and cruised at my normal 70-75 it was not smooth, it felt as if the tires were uneven again and I had a lumpy ride feeling the faster I went. At this point I didn't think it was the new rotors. As I was approaching the offramp I just cruised at 50mph and started slowing down without applying the brakes in order to avoid braking for a prolonged amount of time and started braking at 45mph to a gradual complete stop and the front vibration was there still as the one with my old warped rotors!. At that point I thought new warped rotors = possible or it might be the tires. I got home and had my dad test drive it but he didn't feel the difference . He doesn't really drive it that often so it is probably for that reason and whenever I felt it on the street I would tell him and he didn't feel it. I have been driving the truck more than him so I guess I feel any little difference in ride.

Now here's the situation: I tried calling FrozenRotors but they are in Minnesota and they are closed. The guy at the brake shop who did the job said I should email/call them and tell them their rotors are warped and should be exchanged for other ones and that the rotors appeared of great quality and that the company should stand behind their product if they believe in their products or he also briefly mentioned that for $50 he would machine them (which in my mind I thought that was ridiculous since they are new and premium rotors and shouldn't have to be) and have FrozenRotors reimburse me for that...and he said I would have to do it very 10k-20k miles.....this was absolutely absurd...why would I buy premium rotors when I could have my old warped rotors machined and turned. I didn't watch the installation so I doubt they followed the exact instructions provided by FrozenRotors. I do not know what to do. I need some thoughts, advice, comments, concerns that will help. Should I take the truck back to the brake shop and have them check the tire mounting to see if it was done properly? Should I question these certified mechanics as to whether they followed the proper instructions for the installation that were provided in one of the rotor boxes? A big no no I did read on the installation was the use of an impact wrench to loosen and tighten the wheels. They recommend a torque wrench, could that have been the cause? Should I break them in some more..I did what the paper said that came with the rotors, now should I wait and hope the lumpy ride goes away gradually.that's what my dad said when new pads were installed it felt heavier? but I wasn't following his thoughts at all. When Discount Tire checked the torque on the lugnuts they were all correct. I know another cause could be a need for an alignment but the truck is aligned and didn't do this before the brake job. The truck doesn't squeal in reverse anymore and they said they used anti squeal stuff between the calipers and pads so I know they do a good job installing brake pads. I'm not even sure they put the right rotor on the right side but one would think a certified mechanic would know better...the rotors are clearly marked "L" and "R" on the hub so I doubt they missed it....but if they did can this be a cause...or is this not a possible cause.........Once again any input is greatly welcomed. I live in San Diego (El Cajon) and if anyone locally want to look at it I am willing to drive as far north as Vista by the 78 and as far south as the last exit before the border of course for you to check it out and give me your thoughts. Sorry for the loooooonnnnggg post....I had to let it all out. I would check it out myself but I am not the least mechanically inclined and I don't have the necessary tools and my dad is always at work and his tools were stolen from our storage by the house while we were gone on vacation. Thanks, Luis


I just found this in another thread, it looks like this may be possible:

Originally Posted by dssprophet

Sorry, I just took another look at your post and saw that you did replace your rotors with new ones. But it still sounds like they might be warped. The new rotors that you put on, are they Toyota parts or after market? Either way they still could be warped if they where not shipped and stored rite. I have herd of rotors warping just by sitting on the shelf in the auto parts store. This happens with aftermarket rotors often from what I'm told. You might just need to cut your new rotors. Johnnny

[Island_Tundra]

Sorry about your problem man. All I can say is that when I installed my new Powerslot Rotors, I felt an immidiate difference. I too had the same symptoms that you had. Once I replaced the stock rotors with the new ones though, the problem dissapeared on the first drive. I really don't know what to tell you except call the company and find out about a replacement. Also, if they do give you a replacement I suggest that you do the install yourself. That way you know the install was done to the letter. Its really an easy job if you have basic hand tools. I don't remember the right size for the axle nut though sorry (I think it was a 36mm but I'm not quite sure).

On another note, if I were you I would do alot of the upgrades myself. You get a better appreciation of the outcome and you learn more about your truck. I am not a seasoned mechanic at all. But with the proper instructions and This Great Website you can work on almost any part of your truck yourself with the help of a friend (or in my case, the wife ). I wish you luck on your replacement.


John

[LawyerRon]

There's no such thing as "warped rotors", it's a myth. They could be machined wrong with too much runout.

Or, it sounds like he didn't brake your pads in properly, ie, he didn't follow the bedding-in instructions. This leads to the "warped rotor" feeling. Or, you have some other problem unrelated to the front pads.

[nocturnal_demon_13]

I went back to the mechanic and told him to measure the runout...he said there was no need to since one could feel the excessive runout (hope that makes sense). I contacted FrozeRotors and they said call early Monday and they will give me an RGA# to ship these back at no expense and they will take a look at them. They said it was possible that they could have been bad before they were shipped but highly doubt it. In the 10 years they have been in business only once were the rotors bad that were sent out. All other returns are usually from improper installs (i.e. torquing the lugs too much). As for the pads...they feel great when I'm braking, when I don't have the vibration in slower speeds. Thanks for all of your input guys. I just made the switch from registered member to subscribed..I'd knew I'd do it sooner or later..I wish I had enough for the Lifetime, maybe next year. The information available is great...I can't wait to apply DJ's alignment specs on my next alignment after new tires and lift.

[Picasso]

Originally Posted by nocturnal_demon_13

I went back to the mechanic and told him to measure the runout...he said there was no need to since one could feel the excessive runout.

You ask him to do something simple and he refuses??? I really don't get a good feeling about that mechanic.

Originally Posted by nocturnal_demon_13

I contacted FrozeRotors and they said call early Monday and they will give me an RGA# to ship these back at no expense and they will take a look at them.

Once you get the new rotors off, take them somewhere else and have the runout measured. You don't want to leave this to some one else, especially the seller who's best interest might be to say everything is OK and that their product is fine. I'm not suggesting that Frozen Rotors is slimy at all. I have a very good opinion of them and it's where I bought my rotors from but I would find out as much as I can about the runout before sending them back to eliminate any doubt about their condition. Sending them back with a printout or a note that lists the runout would further support your claim with FR. You may find that only one of the rotors is bad.

Anyway, this is starting to sound a little preachy but it is intended to help.

Did you do the rear brake drum test to eliminate that from the list of possible causes?

Let us know what Frozen Rotors or better yet, you find regarding the runout.

Good luck.

[nocturnal_demon_13]

I will take them once they are off to have the runout checked elsewhere. He said he didn't have the tool to check the run out, which took me by suprise. It's definitely no the rear. I was reading here, some members reported having to adjust the rear brakes because the fronts were doing much of the work after installing new rotors. So when they installed those I had them flush brake fluid, and fill up with ATE blue brake fluid, clean and adjust the rear brakes, which have performed flawlessly...I hope they don't vibrate, ever, like some members have reported. I also had them install rear 5100 Bilsteins shocks I bought from TS member mags a month ago..they were just sitting here and only cost 20 bucks for them to do that. Where do you suggest getting the runout checked...I don't have the tool to check it. Can I just go to a local autoparts store (i.e. Autozone, Schuck's, Kragen, Napa, Checker's, Pep Boys) and have them check it.

[Picasso]

Originally Posted by nocturnal_demon_13

It's definitely no the rear. I was reading here, some members reported having to adjust the rear brakes because the fronts were doing much of the work after installing new rotors. So when they installed those I had them flush brake fluid, and fill up with ATE blue brake fluid, clean and adjust the rear brakes, which have performed flawlessly.

Just to clarify, you did test the rear brakes as outlined by Mustang67408 in his previous post?

Originally Posted by nocturnal_demon_13

Where do you suggest getting the runout checked. Can I just go to a local autoparts store (i.e. Autozone, Schuck's, Kragen, Napa, Checker's, Pep Boys) and have them check it.

I'd give one of them a call just to make sure and see if they charge for it as well. Most brake shops should also be able to do it for you.

[nocturnal_demon_13]

Originally Posted by Picasso

Just to clarify, you did test the rear brakes as outlined by Mustang67408 in his previous post?

I will try that tonight when I get off work. California Hwys are rarely empty or near empty....unless its at night. I get off work at midnight..I will try it then and make sure the rear drums are okay.

Originally Posted by Picasso

I'd give one of them a call just to make sure and see if they charge for it as well. Most brake shops should also be able to do it for you.

I went to a couple shops and they didn't have the tool/equipment to check the runout..sad to see that. I went to Midas and they would do it for $26.40. I went there, they jacked up the truck and then they told me their rotor runout indicater would break if we used it on my slotted rotors. He said if he was to use it and even if it didn't break that the reading would be incorrect because of the needle-like think would go up and down on the rotor surface when spun because of the slots. He said only a digital reader could be used and those were $3k and they didn't have one and they doubted any shop would have it locally. How am I supposed to check the run-out and makes sure its true? Can I get one that will work...how much $$ can I expect to shell out for one. Thanks for your quick replies Picasso I appreciate your help and time to respond.

[Picasso]

Originally Posted by nocturnal_demon_13

I went to a couple shops and they didn't have the tool/equipment to check the runout..sad to see that. I went to Midas and they would do it for $26.40. I went there, they jacked up the truck and then they told me their rotor runout indicater would break if we used it on my slotted rotors. He said if he was to use it and even if it didn't break that the reading would be incorrect because of the needle-like think would go up and down on the rotor surface when spun because of the slots. He said only a digital reader could be used and those were $3k and they didn't have one and they doubted any shop would have it locally. How am I supposed to check the run-out and makes sure its true? Can I get one that will work...how much $$ can I expect to shell out for one. Thanks for your quick replies Picasso I appreciate your help and time to respond.

I have always wondered how slotted or drilled rotors are measured for runout. Some one with more experience than I will have to answer this one.

Calling a performance auto parts store or a dealership that sells sports cars, initially comes to mind. A dealership will probably cost more than Midas wanted to charge though.

Keep us posted.

Paul