Brake Issue started

[calebm12]

I bought my used tundra about 9 months ago. When i bought it i had no problems with the brakes at all...no squeling, no vibrating...nothing...in fact i remember having to brake quickly on the highway and being so impressed by the system. Well about 2 months ago...problems started. first it was just a squeking when i braked at speeds less the 20 mph...i took off the wheels and the pads still had plenty of life in them. the calibers appear to have been replaced with the recal...as they are the larger size calibers. Then on a trip to the mountains pulling a uhaul i started noticing a bad shaking/vibration when i braked at higher speeds. i thought it was just the u haul and the mountains and the strain that coulud be putting on the system. however, this problem has persisted at speeds greater than 60 mph. so i got a squek at slow speeds and a vibration at higher speeds. it really has me worried cause my rotors look good (to the eye which probably doesnt count for much), the pads look good...and yet still problems. anyone got any ideas here??

caleb

[Westwind]

I just replaced my rotor's & pads on my 2000 Tundra at
78K they were the originals. My Toyota Dealer machined
the Rotors around 64K and put new pads on and they
immediately warpped. Stops at speeds over 40 caused
the whole front of the truck to shutter.
With the new one's, PepBoy's best it's like new again.
Oh! Including new rear shocks the job cost me $416 less
$50 from a coupon I found online vs the $900 to $1,100
quotes I got from two Toyota dealers.
Towing my trailer 6K lbs to Florida and back, leaving next
week. Hopefully they will work well.

[RichR]

Mine were fine until I put ceramics on the front.
One hard stop and the rotors warped.
I went with Wheeler's pads and rotors.
Brakes are very good after about 11k.

[MEvang]

caleb
Your problem could be the drums. There is a bulletin that calls for upgraded heavier drums. Just over adjusting can cause the stock drums to warp. I could see where some heavy hill braking could do the same. But before you spurge on new drums, have the rotor run-out checked. I have found you can usually feel a warped drum while adjusting the brakes. The wheel will get tight and then loose as you spin the wheel.
Mike

[MOREPOWER]

My shudders dint fully disappear till they finally replaced the rotors, they had done the rear drums before made no diff. I know when I need brakes I'll go with OEM pads and rotors.

[gsxrsquid]

I have a 2000 LTD 4x4 Bought in 99. About 30k miles started to shudder when I would brake truck would shudder. Rotors and pads were worn pretty good. I replace with stock toyota rotors and pads. I did the work Myself, torqued wheels to factory specs. torquing is critical on alloy wheels in general and on tundras in particular for that year. Ran fine. When i had tires changed after 60,00 had shudder again. went home and removed wheels, put some anti-seize on studs and re-torqued, end of problem. Recently had another set of tires put on. they use the click type fixed torque stick. When I got home I checked brakes and re-torqued wheels. I have 144 thousand miles on it and brakes and rotors are in great shape. I have towed 10,000 pounds and brakes have never let Me down. I DO have electric trailer brakes and a controller. Before I got electric brakes hooked up truck brakes would stop fine but tire traction became the issue with really heavy loads.


you should regularly use parking brake to keep it adjusted as well.

[MEvang]

Torque sticks are better then using a 450 lbft impact, as they limit the amount of torque available. Problem is they are not very acurate. Tell the guy at the tire store you want to see him use a torque wrench. He may look at you like your from Mars, but they know this is what they should be using. Plus they need to blow the dust off now and then.
Mike