I have a 2000 SR5 Tundra, it has a ORS manual hub kit, 6"RCD lift kit , and Icon shocks made for the 6" lift that are cracked up another 1.5" for a total
of 7.5" of lift in front.(this setup has my A arms slightly lower then level) I'm running 35" BFG with 4.88 grear sets, front lock right locker
and TC upper A amrs. the problem is that I have broken 4 axles at the stub shafts. I have limiting straps and alot of movement up/down , scent I'm not
braking the CV cage I don't think it is a binding problem. Also I have broken the shafts at differant times and hights along my way to where the
truck sit now. I will say that all of the axles have been chrommolly and that the axles almost always break when I'm trying to turn and get over an
opstical, the truck starts to hop and when I let off the gas and apply brake(to stop going backwards) the axle snaps. The turns have never been to full
stop. My question is what is the problem, is it my driving, is it the axles binding some how, or is it somthing else, like the shafts aren't storng
enough, (grears/ tries to big) and how do I fix the problem? Do I need to just spend the money and do SAS or what?
__________________
I now have a ORS manual hub kit, 6"RCD lift kit , and Icon shocks made for the 6" lift that are cracked up another 1.5" for a total of 7.5" of lift in front.(this setup has my A arms slightly lower then level) I'm running 35" BFG with 4.88 grear sets, front lock right locker and TC upper A amrs. The rear also has 4:88 grears and a Eaton Limited slip, The spring pack is a custom 8' by Alcoa Spring 20% over stock, I also Had Wenco Drive Shaft add about 1.5" to my drive shaft, The ride is dampened by Bilstien 5100 shocks, with BF Goodrich 315/75/16 TA km tires on Mickey Thomson 16X8 classic II wheels with 4.5 bs, and I have transform my Transformer gril guard by Warn to take a 8K lb. whinch with a set of Warn off road lights and my trusty HI-JACK
I think it's a combination of both the locker and the bigger tires snapping the shafts. Turning in an off camber section/obstacle with a front locker puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain. If you went with something less agressive, you might save your axle shafts from snapping all the time.
I really think you are pushing the drivetrain pass it's limits.
That sounds like I do need a SAS, oh by the way I have snaped it once before without the locker in the front.
__________________
I now have a ORS manual hub kit, 6"RCD lift kit , and Icon shocks made for the 6" lift that are cracked up another 1.5" for a total of 7.5" of lift in front.(this setup has my A arms slightly lower then level) I'm running 35" BFG with 4.88 grear sets, front lock right locker and TC upper A amrs. The rear also has 4:88 grears and a Eaton Limited slip, The spring pack is a custom 8' by Alcoa Spring 20% over stock, I also Had Wenco Drive Shaft add about 1.5" to my drive shaft, The ride is dampened by Bilstien 5100 shocks, with BF Goodrich 315/75/16 TA km tires on Mickey Thomson 16X8 classic II wheels with 4.5 bs, and I have transform my Transformer gril guard by Warn to take a 8K lb. whinch with a set of Warn off road lights and my trusty HI-JACK
Last edited by Iceman; 04-11-2010 at 06:14 PM.
Reason: save a post
I have a 2000 SR5 Tundra, it has a ORS manual hub kit, 6"RCD lift kit , and Icon shocks made for the 6" lift that are cracked up another 1.5" for a total
of 7.5" of lift in front.(this setup has my A arms slightly lower then level) I'm running 35" BFG with 4.88 grear sets, front lock right locker
and TC upper A amrs. the problem is that I have broken 4 axles at the stub shafts. I have limiting straps and alot of movement up/down , scent I'm not
braking the CV cage I don't think it is a binding problem. Also I have broken the shafts at differant times and hights along my way to where the
truck sit now. I will say that all of the axles have been chrommolly and that the axles almost always break when I'm trying to turn and get over an
opstical, the truck starts to hop and when I let off the gas and apply brake(to stop going backwards) the axle snaps. The turns have never been to full
stop. My question is what is the problem, is it my driving, is it the axles binding some how, or is it somthing else, like the shafts aren't storng
enough, (grears/ tries to big) and how do I fix the problem? Do I need to just spend the money and do SAS or what?
this might be a stupid question but, where can i find replacement outer joints? since ors is gone, noone I have been to has been able to find them.
__________________ HAVE YOU DRIVEN OVER A FORD LATELY?
Team West SAWS (cranked up to 3.25")
Total Chaos UCA
ORS Manual hub kit
reese front receiver hitch
10,000 lb. winch on receiver hitch
Warn Quick connects front and rear
rear brake porportioning valve mod
3" perfomance products body lift
skyjacker AAL
wheelers urithane kit for front swaybar and steering rack
BFG AT's
Eagle101 wheels
CB radio W/ dual fiberglass 48" ant.
No I do not. 3 of my CVs came from ORS, the last was gotten locally by the shop that installed it.
__________________
I now have a ORS manual hub kit, 6"RCD lift kit , and Icon shocks made for the 6" lift that are cracked up another 1.5" for a total of 7.5" of lift in front.(this setup has my A arms slightly lower then level) I'm running 35" BFG with 4.88 grear sets, front lock right locker and TC upper A amrs. The rear also has 4:88 grears and a Eaton Limited slip, The spring pack is a custom 8' by Alcoa Spring 20% over stock, I also Had Wenco Drive Shaft add about 1.5" to my drive shaft, The ride is dampened by Bilstien 5100 shocks, with BF Goodrich 315/75/16 TA km tires on Mickey Thomson 16X8 classic II wheels with 4.5 bs, and I have transform my Transformer gril guard by Warn to take a 8K lb. whinch with a set of Warn off road lights and my trusty HI-JACK
This is an update. it turns out that no WILL make the replacement axle/CV. Because the inner is tundra and the outer is from a tacoma. Liabillity you know. So I'm have to reinstall the tundra hubs so that I can use a stock axle. What a waste of $$$$.
OH WELL the next time I put this truck on the rack it will get at lease a dana 44 SAS.
__________________
I now have a ORS manual hub kit, 6"RCD lift kit , and Icon shocks made for the 6" lift that are cracked up another 1.5" for a total of 7.5" of lift in front.(this setup has my A arms slightly lower then level) I'm running 35" BFG with 4.88 grear sets, front lock right locker and TC upper A amrs. The rear also has 4:88 grears and a Eaton Limited slip, The spring pack is a custom 8' by Alcoa Spring 20% over stock, I also Had Wenco Drive Shaft add about 1.5" to my drive shaft, The ride is dampened by Bilstien 5100 shocks, with BF Goodrich 315/75/16 TA km tires on Mickey Thomson 16X8 classic II wheels with 4.5 bs, and I have transform my Transformer gril guard by Warn to take a 8K lb. whinch with a set of Warn off road lights and my trusty HI-JACK
Broken axle stubs
Re: Broken axle stubs
it turns out that no WILL make the replacement axle/CV. Because the inner is tundra and the outer is from a tacoma. Liabillity you know. So I'm have to reinstall the tundra hubs so that I can use a stock axle. What a waste of 
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