Personally, anything more than a 12 pack or 15 pack of Guiness is too much. However, $175 to install the front suspension isn't too bad but, with people wanting to help for the fraction of the cost would you want to pay the $175?
For the rear shocks, you'll need the frame of the truck to sit on jackstands to allow the rear axle to droop and remove the shocks. Using red locktite is good on nuts/bolts you don't want to back out. However, use it on nuts/bolts that can handle a lot of torque. The option is to use nylon nuts.
Personally, anything more than a 12 pack or 15 pack of Guiness is too much. However, $175 to install the front suspension isn't too bad but, with people wanting to help for the fraction of the cost would you want to pay the $175?
For the rear shocks, you'll need the frame of the truck to sit on jackstands to allow the rear axle to droop and remove the shocks. Using red locktite is good on nuts/bolts you don't want to back out. However, use it on nuts/bolts that can handle a lot of torque. The option is to use nylon nuts.
I have a 2 car garage in east Sac Elkhorn/Greenback, jackstands, and a hankerin' for some whiskey (Maker's Mark or Gentleman Jack will suffice)
If y'all want to come over and so some work, I might be tempted to drop my front diff to fix a minor 'issue' that's been plaguing me since I did the front locker.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
My driver's side axle shaft doesn't butt all the way up against the diff seal. Last trip out to Prairie City sucked in a lot of water. I was thinking about dropping the diff and test fitting the axle with both off of the truck. If it still doesn't fit, I may decide to crack open the diff and go to town. It's just kinda hard with only one guy--having an extra set of hands makes this MUCH easier. I could have it done in about 1.5 hours with some help, or 1/2 day without...
Lemme know if you guys are down for a Saturday or Sunday before the Washington trip. I have a house, big 2 car garage and lots of tools.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Do any of you Sacramento people know where I can get my truck aligned after the coilover install? I have called a few places but they won't touch it when I say that it will have a slightly modified suspension.
I rented a spring compressor form Kragen (for free), but the compressor was too large to fit between the coil spacings
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2003 Stratosphere Mica SR5 Access Cab
Shocks: Bilstein 5100 coilovers and 5100s in the rear.
Wheels: Toyo Open Country A/T 275/70/16s on MB Blitz rims
Do any of you Sacramento people know where I can get my truck aligned after the coilover install? I have called a few places but they won't touch it when I say that it will have a slightly modified suspension.
I rented a spring compressor form Kragen (for free), but the compressor was too large to fit between the coil spacings
You can try this place--I've never used them. But another user on the board recommended them to me: 530-758-8282. Let us know if that reference pays off..
You need to borrow the 'Strut Compressors' they are smaller and fit into the springs much better.
1.Be sure to align the bolt holes on the top plate with the shock mount on the frame
2.Be sure to start the compressor as high up the spring as possible
3.Use oil on the threads to make turning them easier.
Make one mistake and you need to the compressions 2 or 3 times.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
I drove through a puddle yesterday and then checked out my STOCK front suspension. It was wet and muddy. My new Bilstein coilovers won't have a boot to keep dirt out. Neither do Donhoe of Camburg! Isn't this a problem? At least Donhoe and Camburg have the shaft on the bottom so dirt can fall off. Mine has the shaft on top so dirt will pool up on the seal. Is this a problem?
I can install mine upside down
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2003 Stratosphere Mica SR5 Access Cab
Shocks: Bilstein 5100 coilovers and 5100s in the rear.
Wheels: Toyo Open Country A/T 275/70/16s on MB Blitz rims
I drove through a puddle yesterday and then checked out my STOCK front suspension. It was wet and muddy. My new Bilstein coilovers won't have a boot to keep dirt out. Neither do Donhoe of Camburg! Isn't this a problem? At least Donhoe and Camburg have the shaft on the bottom so dirt can fall off. Mine has the shaft on top so dirt will pool up on the seal. Is this a problem?
I can install mine upside down
It's not going to be a problem as long as you wash the muddy stuff off as soon as you can. Don't leave it caked on. If you can install them upside down, I suggest you should. I had my SAWS upside down for over a year without a problem. Plus, it's a lot easier to turn the collars when you have it on the up-side.
It's not going to be a problem as long as you wash the muddy stuff off as soon as you can. Don't leave it caked on. If you can install them upside down, I suggest you should. I had my SAWS upside down for over a year without a problem. Plus, it's a lot easier to turn the collars when you have it on the up-side.
I hope all my questions aren't too taxing on you, but you and Mike have a bundle of knowledge.
1) I have progressive rate spring. Installing it upside down won't change how it works? I don't think so, but I have to check.
2) Can I turn the collars with the spring installed on the truck and the front end jacked off the ground? Bilstein says to adjust the collar I have to re-compress springs and remove all load from shock...
I can't wait to install them ,but I need to find enough time and good weather.
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2003 Stratosphere Mica SR5 Access Cab
Shocks: Bilstein 5100 coilovers and 5100s in the rear.
Wheels: Toyo Open Country A/T 275/70/16s on MB Blitz rims
No problem at all. That's what we are all here for. As far as turning the collar, I'm not sure about the Bilstein's but, with other adjustable coilovers, you can adjust them on the truck and off the ground. It might be a little tough to turn while on the truck.
BTW-Are you joining us on March 12th for the trail run?
Do you think a stock 2wd with open diff and inexperienced driver can make it?
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2003 Stratosphere Mica SR5 Access Cab
Shocks: Bilstein 5100 coilovers and 5100s in the rear.
Wheels: Toyo Open Country A/T 275/70/16s on MB Blitz rims
Do you think a stock 2wd with open diff and inexperienced driver can make it?
That's what tow straps are for! Do you have stock tires too, or something a bit more aggressive? I've never been to this particular trail so you may want to post on the Norcal thread and see what Herbicidal recommends. He did say that 2wd with locked rear should be okay. But your other alternative is to see how far you can go before you have to turn around.
My Fabtechs have the same exposed piston and the spring will keep 80% of the mud off the piston. I rarely, if even clean the truck after a romp in the mud. You'd have to have it pretty well buried up front in order to create problems with the shock and it would have to be underwater for a considerable amount of time. Think about it: if the hydraulic fluid can't leak out when the inside is under pressure then dirt will have a helluva time getting in.
As far as cranking the shock up on/off the truck. Put some oil on the threads above/below the collar and crank it until you are close to the lift you want. Then put it on the truck and finish cranking to get the desired level. Again using a few drops of oil to make the job easier.
If you've cranked too much and can't get the shock into the tower you have a few options:
a)have a buddy put his foot on the brake assembly and force the lower a arm down while you work the shock in
b) dial back on the spanner a bit. Useful if you are doing the work alone, but cranking with a spanner in the wheel can be time consuming and not too fun.
c) Drop the lower ball joint by removing the four bolts underneath
If you want help with any of this, it's no trouble at all to do it at my house. I could really use another set of hands for a few minor projects I've been looking to tackle anyway. So we're in a position to help each other out.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
I did the front of my truck this morning. Replacing the shocks was easy and only took about 2 hrs. I spent another 3 hrs trying to get a stripped lug nut off. I am never buying cheap security lug nuts again. Who is going to steal stock "styled steel" rims?
I won't be attempting the upcoming trip. I think my truck needs some improvements (bigger tires once the stock wear out) before I attempt anything where the trail will probably be wet. If there is every an easy trip in the summer I'll plan on going.
I am installing 5100s in the rear tomorrow...
Thanks for all your support.
Edit: All done today. The nuts on the top of the rear shocks were almost impossible without the right tool.
__________________
2003 Stratosphere Mica SR5 Access Cab
Shocks: Bilstein 5100 coilovers and 5100s in the rear.
Wheels: Toyo Open Country A/T 275/70/16s on MB Blitz rims
Last edited by mmarlatt; 03-06-2005 at 07:41 PM.
Reason: Cuz
However, $175 to install the front suspension isn't too bad but, with people wanting to help for the fraction of the cost would you want to pay the $175?
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