I would assume it is going to be the actual igniter. However please understand it is very hard to diagnosis with out looking at the vehicle. Sounds as if you have an intermittent problem with the igniter itself.
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I would assume it is going to be the actual igniter. However please understand it is very hard to diagnosis with out looking at the vehicle. Sounds as if you have an intermittent problem with the igniter itself.
Update: The car has a bad stall this morning, right in the middle of turning left at traffic light! Luckily there was a pick-up truck with 4 workers who kindly jumped out to help us push the car to the side. We were on our way to another AutoZone that we found just 2.5 miles from us - it was just .75 mile away when the car died again. We managed to the AutoZone eventually. The Code is definitely P1300. We had to call an AAA tow truck to the dealer.
The service rep said it could be IAC valve related, despite we showed him the printout from AutoZone. Anyway after they supposedly ran the battery of test, the guy told us the mechanic has checked the spark plugs, the wires, the igniter and the cylinders - they all ran fine. He mentioned something about they had to disconnect something and directly hooked up the computer to test the ignition system and it worked fine. So they concluded it is the IAC valve.
Parts $285ish, 2.5 hour labour, with tax the estimate is $505xx. We decided to go ahead and also have Air Filer change, Oil change done at same time. Total cost: $555.xx They have to get the part from another location at other part of the town but the car should be ready this afternoon. We took the courtesy car ride home.
The car has been serviced by this dealer almost exclusively in the past 8 years. The first time was warranty work they have to pick up - to change the "minor" catalytic connector - that the CEL and bad oxygen sensors have been plaguing this car. 3 more major repairs done over the years. Replacement of timing belt in 1999 together with 60K miles services at $404.xx Followed by replacing the rubber boots of drive shaft (the very costly repair) $900 a few years later, and last one in Oct 2004 replacing EGR regulator, VSV, plus oil change $465.
Excluding the timeing belt job, it was not too bad to have about $1400 repair jobs between 2001/2 till now. Hopefully this time is truly the IAC problem and the $500 job would take care of it for another year or so. We actually have started looking into buying a new car from almost 2 years ago. However since we only drove 3000ish miles a year, the "looking" remains in the "looking" stage. lol. Now we need to get serious about this, though we are nto sure we want another Toyota.
Last edited by donthvname; 12-13-2007 at 03:51 PM.
Did they find something wrong with IAC valve. Or are they just assuming that it is faulty. I am still afraid you may have an intermittent problem with the igniter I have seen it before.
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Did they find something wrong with IAC valve. Or are they just assuming that it is faulty. I am still afraid you may have an intermittent problem with the igniter I have seen it before.
No way we can tell. The Service Rep did say they checked thru the Ignition System. Can they check the Igniter itself to make sure as well? The job is under 90days or 4000 miles warranty. If this is not the right way to fix it, the intermittent problem would come back sooner than 90 days I would think.
Actually the fine print said Replaced genuine Toyota parts and labor are warranteed for 1 year unlimited mileage. All other parts and labor are warranteed for 90 days or 4000 miles whichever occurs first after date of repair.
It is the Idle Air Control valve it measures and adjust the air flow through the throttle body. It measures thing like when the air conditioner turns on it will turn the idle up to adjust for the load being put on the engine.
I have added a link to a code p0505 this relates directly to the IAC see if it helps you understand it.
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My intermittant issue with stalling on my 97 camry turned out to be the EGR valve. The car would run for days or sometimes weeks without a problem but it got worse over the last few months. I bought a new one to the tune of $140 at autozone at the advice of a good mechanic, and once I got the old one out it was very obvious that it was sticking. The car runs great!! It feels good to finally beat a pesky intermittant problem.
As we all suspected, it is NOT the IAC that causes the stalling.
The service rep called late afternoon yesterday said the part came in late, so the car wouldn't be ready till mid morning the following day.
Immediately I suspected they could not fix the car thru replacing the IAC because the P1300 did not point to anything related to IAC, it should be ignition system related.
Anyway, today I called at 11am, the guy said car was out for test drive and as soon as it came back fine he would call me. No call.
Around 2 pm I called again. He said the car was just ready now and the courtesy pickup would call us soon.
When we arrived, the service rep motioned us to come in the repair station (where they dont have individual booths but a station with several desks.) He explained that after replacing the IAC valve, the check engine light still came up and the P1300 still showed up. He claimed they ended up replace the computer - I supposed it is the Engine Control Computer - then the error code goes away. He said because it was their diagnostic error and that he told me the bill would not exceed $556 even ($505 for the repair, part and 2.5hr labor plus air filter and oil change), he would eat the cost of the computer. On the bill, they charge the ISC valve 22270-03011 at $258.20, and the Auto Computer Exchange 89661-33740 at $549.99.
I looked up the part numbers at the Toyota parts supplier - the correspondence prices are 196xx, and then for the computer - $100 for core, and $596xx for the whole thing.
The car CEL is gone, it maintains idle speed after started (wouldn't die). However, it feels sluggish.
I have 3 questions though:
1) Is ISC the same thing as IAC? If not, where is IAC Valve located?
We saw the ISC valve is mounted on the side of the throttle body - at least there is a very new-looking part sitting at that location now - on the right side of the throttle body when you standing in front of the car to look at.
2) What does the "core price" meant for the Engine Control Computer?
3) What may cause the sluggishness of the car? It runs, but does not feel as well as before.
Finally, I want to thank everyone here who recommend people to get a error code read from AutoZone. I honestly feel that having such information on hand, and stressed this to the service rep when we took the car to repair, really helped us in this case. Because the rep had emphasized 2 or 3 times the ignition system tested just fine, it should be the IAC issue - that he was so eager to have me agree on the $556 total, he would have a difficult time to tell us that now it was something else and the repair cost would be much higher... I have asked him 3 times to look at the ignition system and he came back to tell us the technician tested the system and everything worked fine, though he mentioned that they could not test the igniter itself. I am not sure I understand why or the reason he gave why they could not test the igniter.
Anyway, we will see how the car run in the next few days. If the sluggishness persists, we may have to take it back to look at again.
I seem to be having the same problem. The card starts fine runs fine till it warms up. While the car is in park idling or while in drive stopped at a light, the rpm's start ramping up to about 2-3000. You can smell the rotten egg smell. After driving while in this condition, the problem goes away, but it is sporadic and does come back. I have replaced the IAC valve and of course didn't fix the problem. I checked the codes for the check engine light that recently came on 2 days ago. P0401 & P0420
I also got another code this evening P0115. I replaced the thermostat last year.
From reading the above posts, I am leaning toward the Engine Control Computer.
What does the ISC valve do? I think he may have misspelled the word IAC.
Any help with this would be appreciated.
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I troubleshooted the IAC valve, everything is within the specifications. As I stated in the above post, I had replaced the IAC valve the previously.
I then cleared the code (removing the fuse for 10 secs), and the code P0115 came back. I then replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor, so far so good. Can this sensor affect the idling? It makes sense if the engine is thinking it is too cold or hot, and then it would affect the idling.
I am thinking I didn't need to replace the IAC valve and save me some money.
Thanks for all the help guys!
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Re: '96 Camry 4 2.2 check engine light on
After driving while in this condition, the problem goes away, but it is sporadic and does come back. I have replaced the IAC valve and of course didn't fix the problem. I checked the codes for the check engine light that recently came on 2 days ago. P0401 & P0420 
Linear Mode
