'96 Camry 4 2.2 check engine light on

[donthvname]

The car had O2 sensors and catalytic converter replaced when it was still under warranty because of persistent check-engine light coming on.

Since 2000, the car has avg 3K to 5K miles a year, mostly city driving with very occasional 1K or so driving trips.

In Oct 2004 the CE light came on again at 74K. Took it to dealership and had it diagnosed as well as repaired. The bill said 2 parts were replaced: ASSY, EGR VACU at 59.76 and ASSY, VACUUM S at 71.95. Diagnosis and labor together 235.50, for a final bill including fee and taxes $436.89.

It has less than 10K miles put on the car since the repair done in Oct 2004. We average 3K miles a year now and mainly city driving for running errands. Car has 81K miles on it currently.

3 weeks ago when we returned from a flight, right after driving the car out of airport parking, the engine died. It restarted but the CE went on ever since.

Similar incident happened in 2 weeks the car died just after short distance out from Condo garage when we went out in the morning.

Then a week ago it happened again after leaving a drugstore - the car was doing several short-hopped shoping trips that afternoon and then was driven out again in the evening when the 3rd incident happened. This time the engine was very hesitant to restart, and died during the short time when switching gear from P to D (so the pedal was not pressed at all). It took a few such stumbles. Finally after a long pause the engine was able to restart and I drove 1.5 mile home without any more incident. The car has since sitting in garage as we went on a 5-day trip.

Today we checked the hoses that connected to the EGR valves - one of the 2 hoses on the top side seems to be a bit loose and the cramp is not at the proper place - the mechanic from previous repair put it way back instead of the original place where the cramp was at - you can see the original mark on the hose and the new mark where the cramp has been removed to. In any case, the hose definitely has not been replaced, despite the repair order said the part includes ASSY.

We tightened the hose. Now we disconnected the battery, hopefully to re-set the CE.

My question is, the last repair on the EGR Valves was only done 3 years and less than 10K miles ago - it seems too soon for the thing to fail again.

Any inputs would be really appreciated.

[mral1515]

Need to know what codes are in it this time. This may or may not be related to the previous repair. The EGR valve nor the vsv come with new hoses they have to be put on seperatly. It sounds as if you may have another concern. If you can get the codes maybe by taking it to a place like Autozone and have them tell you what the # is for the current code. If you have cleared it when it comes back try this.

[donthvname]

Unfortunately the CE comes back. There are mentionings in various threads here about the Modulator might be the problem.

So we definitely need to take it to Autozone for a read of the code(s).

[mral1515]

Let us know what the codes are when you get them.

[donthvname]

When I googled AutoZone to find a shop near us, I realize they are all independent mechanic shops participate in the "ProCarCare" program?

The nearest shop I found under this "ProCarCare" program claims its machine does not do '96 Toyota Camry!

There is no AutoZone shop per se. Is this correct?

[donthvname]

So we were thinking about to replace the EGR Modulator ourselves, we did a search on internet to find the part number.

We found the Toyotapartscenter.net in Miami.

Upon plugged in the part number on our previous repair invoice, we found out the parts listed on the dealer invoice were not the same as described on invoice.

On dealer invoice:

Part Number 25870-74090 Valve. ASSY, EGR VACU $59.76
Part Number 25860-74050 Valve, ASSY, VACUUM S $71.95

On Toyotapartscenter.net

Part Number 25870-74090 Vacuum Regulator $46.90
Part Number 25860-74050 VSV Switch $56.50

In other words, the EGR Valve we thought was replaced, it was not. It was the the Vacuum Regulator (Modulator) being replaced.

That means may be our problem is really related to the EGR Valve itself this time, as both the EGR Modulator and the VSV Switch have been replaced 3 years ago and there were only 8K miles put on since then.

[mral1515]

You may be just blowing your money if you don't have the code.

[donthvname]

Originally Posted by mral1515

You may be just blowing your money if you don't have the code.

I called one mechanic shop that participates in the AutoZone ProCarCare program, the owner did even want my business. He said they didn't have machine to diagnose '96 Camry.

Another shop listed on AutoZone website, the phone number is not in service.

I honestly dont know how AutoZone works based on the above experience. Can you or others enlighten me how AutoZone or similar outfits work? I mean, do they have their own shops? franchise shops? participating independent shops?

[DFBonnett]

I think you are looking at the wrong thing. Go to AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone!. Click on Store Locator. Put in your address and click Go. It will list the local AZ parts stores where you can use the code reader to pull the needed code.

[mral1515]

Originally Posted by DFBonnett

I think you are looking at the wrong thing. Go to Auto Zone.com - Get in the Zone!. Click on Store Locator. Put in your address and click Go. It will list the local AZ parts stores where you can use the code reader to pull the needed code.

Yes that is correct Auto zone is a parts store that will read the code for free. Sorry I was a little confusing.

[tacocrazy]

I have a 97 camry 4-cyl and it is having the same kind of issues you are describing. I took it to autozone and their code reader showed bad EGR valve. Price is $155.00!!
Anyone think the EGR would cause intermittant problems? Mine will be fine for days or even weeks and then just run like crap. It acts like it's running out of fuel, but I can smell rich exhaust.

[mral1515]

It would help if you could get the code # for your vehicle as well. I personally would not replace any parts without knowing that info.

The parts guys at Auto Zone are there to sell parts as many of them do have some technical knowledge most of them do not. So when they see one of the many codes that say EGR in it they automatically say it is a EGR valve. In most cases on the 4 cyl. Camry ( 5sfe engine ) it is actually a faulty EGR vacuum switching valve (vsv for short).

Please don't go out and replace the vsv based on this info get code and let us know so we can get as close to a good diagnosis as possible over the internet.

[donthvname]

OK, I finally resort to the whitepage phone book - there are 2 AutoZone parts shops listed in our area phone book. Upon calling the first one listed, the guy said there are 3 but he could not find the phone number of the one that is closest to our address, though he gave us the street intersection.

However when we went, we only saw a shop called Advance Autoparts. At tne end we drove another 10 miles or so to eventually find the initial AutoZone we talked to.

Guy came out to check - there is only ONE error code P1300. He said it is Misfire, caused by bad plug, bad wire, or bad distributor. No any other error code is produced, therefore the EGR and related stuff apparently are working fine.

Our brake light also comes on without reason, sometimes when switching between N and D. The guy said it is because the brake light switch either got losen or broken. He said the switch is underneath the pedal and we could replace it ourselves.

The car acted up again this evening when we stopped by a drugstore to shop for about 45 minutes. It stalled right after we went out to the main street. Luckily there is a turn lane so we managed to pull in the turn light and sat there for a while with our hazzard light on. Eventually we managed to re-start the car and drove home.

I hope the P1300 is easier to fix than the error codes related to the emission system...

[mral1515]

P1300 is not a misfire code. It is a code for an igniter circuit malfunction. I have seen code only a couple of times. I have added an attachment for p1300 straight out of the Toyota repair manual. When I had this code one time it was a wiring repair and the other it was the igniter itself. Try to follow the repair manual. Let us know how it goes.

By the way p0300 is for a multiple cylinder misfire. Just to be clear they said the code was p1300?

[donthvname]

Originally Posted by mral1515

P1300 is not a misfire code. It is a code for an igniter circuit malfunction. I have seen code only a couple of times. I have added an attachment for p1300 straight out of the Toyota repair manual. When I had this code one time it was a wiring repair and the other it was the igniter itself. Try to follow the repair manual. Let us know how it goes.

By the way p0300 is for a multiple cylinder misfire. Just to be clear they said the code was p1300?

Thanks for quick response. I am not sure now whether it is P0300 or P1300 - I thought I saw the screen shows P1300, may be it is P0300.

However, the car once it is running, it runs fine, the idling is smooth and at correct RPM at around 700+, no knocking, no stumbling. The issue with the car is the engine suddenly died shortly after started and moving as if there is no fuel coming. If we let it idle for 1/2 minute or so after started, then it seems to prevent the stalling.

I have googled the P1300 already and realized it is related to the Igniter circuit malfunction Bank 1.
The guy did not mention igniter malfunction. He never actually tell what code it is. I just looked at the screen over his shoulder when he plugged it in.

I wonder which one is harder to fix?