I am desperately need your help. I tried to remove the VSV for EGR without success. The location make it very hard to reach and there barely any space for me to work on my rachet. I tried to reach it from the right side wheel well as mentioned, using an universal joint and extension but was not able to remove the 12mm bolt, it did not even budged a bit.
I need advise on how to remove the bolt and also how to remove the wire socket. I am thinking if i an revove the wire socket and the vacuum tube i might as well install a new VSV somewhere easier.
Thanks in advance.
You can always come to LV,NV and let me have a try at removing it.
Have you tried soaking the bolt with WD-40 or equvilant and getting a breaker bad instead of a wratchet which will give you more turning leverage. Some of those bolt are very tight and may even corrode a bit after time.
The wire socket has a tab that you squeeze and then the connector comes off, the vacuum hose should just pull off if you slightly twist it.
__________________ 02 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
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Did this operation today and it worked like a charm ! The CEL went away after half an hour of on/off highway speed. Went for the Emission test and the car passed with flying colors. Thanks everyone for your help. I could not have done it without this site. Now, one more things that's bugging me about my 99 camry is that it makes a loud loud squealing noise I make a turn, especially when pulling out of a parking space. This started after a friend changed the timing belt on my car recently.
Glad TS was able to assist you. I would have to say that you should check the drive belts for proper tension. They had to be removed to do the Timing belt and may not be set quite right.
__________________ 02 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG
25 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Tech
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
Thank you for the details on where to position your arms. The only thing I would add is, once your car is safely secured on jack stands, lay under the car with your feet toward the back bumber and head directly under the oil pan. From this position you cannot see the VSV but you can reach up and pull down on the ratchet.
Great post!Thanks! I was able to change it out in no time! Although the problem is still showing up! I've changed the EGR valve, and the VSV, checked the modulator...i think its still ok,the filters were a little dirty though, cleaned them the best i could. Does anyone have any ideas. Maybe a plugged hose or something? Please if you have any info, i would greatly appreciate the input.
Great post!Thanks! I was able to change it out in no time! Although the problem is still showing up! I've changed the EGR valve, and the VSV, checked the modulator...i think its still ok,the filters were a little dirty though, cleaned them the best i could. Does anyone have any ideas. Maybe a plugged hose or something? Please if you have any info, i would greatly appreciate the input.
Make sure the vacuum lines to the EGR MODULATOR are not plugged or dirty and clean the throttlebody where they attach and then replace the modulator, they always (99%) are bad.
There is also a MAP sensor that reads the engine data and may be improperly reading, make sure the vacuum line to it is clean an the filter it attaches to is allowing enough vacuum thru.
__________________ 02 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG
25 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Tech
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
Make sure the vacuum lines to the EGR MODULATOR are not plugged or dirty and clean the throttlebody where they attach and then replace the modulator, they always (99%) are bad.
There is also a MAP sensor that reads the engine data and may be improperly reading, make sure the vacuum line to it is clean an the filter it attaches to is allowing enough vacuum thru.
Thanks for the info. I replaced the modulator and it fixed the problem. I wish I would have done the in the first place. Thanks for the help!
I did this excercise today (on camry 1998 2.2L 5SFE), and will find out what the codes I get after driving 50+ miles.
In the mean time I would like to post a picture of my camry's location of the vsv valve-
(the hoses have white and yellow bands, and they are too faint to notice, so I'v wrapped the yellow band with a orange tape).
The picture is taken from back of passenger side wheel after turning the steering wheel to extreme left.
Successfully replaced the VSV for EGR. This post was very helpful. It took me a day to replace it. I am posting some of my experience.
1. I had trouble loosening the bolt through the passenger side wheel opening using universal joint and extension. I setup a web cam so that I can see the VSV bolt from the top. Now I was able to remove the bolt by standing near the passenger side wheel and reaching the bolt from the top using a 3/8 6 inch extension. This worked out very well.
2. As mentioned in this post, remove the electric connector before removing the bolt. It took me a while to remove the connector after removing the bolt.
3. The best way to screw the bolt in is to reach through the passenger side wheel and using your hand to screw it in.
4. Once the bolt is screwed, you can tighten it from the top using the web cam.
Thanks for all the great info in this post! I had to sign up because I found this site after searching for the vsv for 30 min., besides, now that my keyboard is well lubricated I might as well comment on the fix. For newbie DIYers: Please let the motor cool off first! Knuckle-busting around a hot engine makes Jack a dull boy! I liked the idea of using the next available bolt hole to reinstall the part in a user friendly spot. I, too, have to pass the emissions rodeo this month. Replaced the egr valve (need the right tools for that job) and cleaned the modulator filter. Egr was almost fully blocked. All the manuals, most of the parts stores with any repair help online could not pinpoint the exact problem or location of the P0401 code. Not until trying this post was I able to confidently do the repair! Thanks All!
To remove the camry 98 VSV , I turn the wheel to the left, then jacked up the car then removed the right wheel . I used long socket 12 mm successfully to move the bolt .
After that , the job is easy . This part is the culprit for the Engine check light turn on .
with this light turn on, yearly emission state control will fail This VSV valve is well hidden in the engine place where I could not get to it from the bottom of the car .
Good luck . If I do it again, it will take me about less than 30 minutes . Try to avoid stripping the bolt . It was tough but not that bad . After that, I turn on the engine, I increase the speed of the engine and put my finger to the underneath of the EGR valve located on the top of the engine ( look like a big mushroom ), I can feel the vacuum membrane move up and down with the speed of the engine.
If the P0401 code show up again, I will take out the EGR valve and clean up again with Carburator cleaner . EGR is very expensive and does not go bad easily ( $150 ) at advance auto parts .
Good luck .
Last edited by pthang; 03-22-2010 at 11:12 PM.
Reason: add more information