DIY: Camry 2.2L 2001 VSV for EGR Replacement

[kodyw]

Today I spent sometime to replace the vacuum solenoid valve for EGR for my Toyota camry 2.2L 2001. (Intermittient P0401 Check Engine Code problem.) For those who would like to DIY, I post what I did for your reference.

P/N: 25860-74050

The tools I used:
1. 12 mm 3/8 in. drive socket
2. 3/8 in. drive universal joint
3. 3/8 in. drive 18 in. extension bar
4. 3/8 in. drive ratchet

The steps are:
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise the car.
3. Unplug the connector. (You can not see it this step.)See attached picture.
4. Unscrew 12 mm bolt. (You can see the bolt but your hand may block your view while unscrewing it.) See attached picture.
5. Move the vsv to where you can see.(Now you can see it.)
6. Remove one of the vacuum tube and plug it to the same place on the new vsv.
7. Remove the other of the vacuum tube and plug it to the same place on the new vsv.
8. Move the vsv back. (Now you can not see it again.)
9. Screw 12 mm bolt back in.
10. plug the connector slowly until you hear a click sound.(You can not see it this step.)

BTW, It is very hard to reach it and most steps you can not see the vsv that you are working on. But if you know where it is, you can do it without seeing it.

[Camry300]

New Here.

This was a great thread and very helpful.

kodyw... Great post. The pictures were helpful.

Be careful when taking out the bolt...it can fall into a hole in the motor mount against the block.

[Camry300]

BTW, I probably could have found the part cheaper on the internet but the VSV (for EGR) was $81.72 (tax included) at Sterling McCall (lowest Dealer price in town).

Also, had to replace the EGR Valve itself. Paid $129.XX (tax included) at Advance Auto Parts on Jones Rd just north of 290. You can disconnect the EGR Valve manifold tube with a 15/16" shorty-wrench or crows foot on a universal-extension ratchet or a 23mm of the same (I don't have a metric that big).

All in all, much cheaper than any dealership. Now, I just need to find out who is going to pay me the $75.00/hour shop rate for labor.

[mavic]

Just want to add something to what kodyw posted. Instead of installing it at the same spot, there is another hole left of it and in clear view that you could mount on. I used that hole and bolt works.

As for getting cheap/er parts (compared to dealership prices), just order out of state. Some companies waive the shipping charges and you don't pay sales tax. Try American Toyota in Albequerque, NM (shameless plug ). Ask for Tom in parts dept. He posts on "IH8MUD" website and usually gives 20% off.

mavic

[cllewis.1@gmail.com]

For the record, ask for DAN (not Tom) at American Toyota, let him know you found him through the ih8mud website, and he'll give you a nice discount (I just ordered this VSV from him for $58 shipped; one local dealer wanted $69 and another wanted $90+). American Toyota's phone number, is 5058234440.

[mavic]

Cllewis,

I stand corrected. Dan is the man from IH8MUD!. I think there is another fellow named Tom who assisted me in some orders. Thanks for the correction. Good deals from American Toyota.

mavic

[camry1997]

Thank's All

[blooking4deals]

Very good information for DYI
Thanks

[98Camry-sage]

Thanks to kodyw and cllewis. I just did this repair and the information was helpful. Especially kodyw's suggestion to use a universal joint and extension with a 12mm socket. I was stuck until I re-read the posting and saw that. As a way of passing the favor along, I'll post a few specifics of my experience in doing this repair, similar to what I posted on another forum. The part can be tested after removal (if you're willing to stand the removal/insertion grief) and a simple resistance check should show 33-39 Ohms between the terminals and no continuity between either terminal and the part's mounting frame. You can blow through it from the plastic port and with no voltage applied the air will come out the metal one, with some effort. Applying 12V (positive to the terminal closest to the bracket's main mounting bolt) to the terminals will cause the air to flow out the plastic atmospheric vent/filter. Current required is about 0.25A. Testing is apparently not very reliable, though, as the part can be pretty intermittent when it starts failing. I tested my old part after putting the new one in and it changed its behavior after a few test cycles. As for removal/installation, it's a PIA. It's in a terrible position, against the rear of the engine block and under (access blocked by) the intake manifold. It's blocked from the back by an engine mount and from the bottom by the CV half-shafts (and a mounting bracket) from the transmission to the right front wheel. Perhaps it's possible change it from the top (arm between the manifold and the firewall), but I could neither see or reach it that way, and it wasn't even a close call for me. The only possible access I could get was from the right front wheel well, after removing the wheel. The Camry's own jack is fine for this, but remember to use a jackstand too! First remove the electrical plug (push in on the plug latch from the car's right side) and then push it out of the way. The 12mm bolt is very hard to reach and you'll likely need a socket and a universal joint, along with an extension 8-18 inches long. It's clumsy, you can't see what you're doing, and it's a knuckle-scuffer. Once you've got the bolt removed it's best to crawl under the car to pull the bracket out to the left of the engine mount and down so that you can get reasonable access to pull the vacuum hoses off and reinstall them on the new valve. This is the easy part. Even reinstalling the valve is clumsy, and it took virtually all of my reach (sitting on the floor with my shoulder in the wheel well) to get the bolt and bracket reinstalled. The bracket kept wanting to drift to the left, pulled by the vacuum hoses, and I used a long wire with a hook in it (held in my other hand) to pull it back while I inserted the bolt. Since I couldn't be sure I got the mounting bolt very tight I used a little dab of medium-strength thread-locking compound on the mounting bolt. I didn't find any reason to unhook the battery for this procedure, so the check engine light stayed on for a few drive cycles after the fix. It apparently takes a warm engine and a variety of driving, over at least 2 on/off ignition cycles, and speeds of 50+ MPH, to reset the light. kodyw, how did you get those pictures? One of them, by the way, shows the actual valve part number, without the bracket (90910-12080). I suspect they don't sell it that way, but it would be easy enough to put a new valve in an old bracket if you could get one.

[CirKle-K]

This is my first post in these forums but I wanted to share my recent experience with this problem. This post was very helpful to me in solving my problem. My wifes '98 Camry V6 just failed an emissions test a few weeks ago and four error codes showed up. The codes were P0401, P0402, P1410, P1411. I wasn't about to take it to the dealership and pay a bunch on money for nothing. I did my reasearch on the internet and then I went and got a cheap code reader/eraser from Sears so I could read and clear the codes. I took the advice from kodyw's post and changed the VSV (vacuum solenoid valve) first. This took care of the P0401 and P1411 codes. I then took the next logical step and changed the EGR position sensor instead of the whole valve. Once I did this and cleared the codes one last time the CEL stayed out and the reader showed 0 codes. I just hope it stays this way. Hopefully this info will help someone out in the furture who's experiencing the same problem. In all I spent just over $100 dollars in parts plus the cost of the code reader. It was supposed to be $79 but it was hanging on a hook that said $44, so I got it for the lower price.

[new_waverider]

Does this information also apply to my 2000 Camry LE-4 cyl? Should I have this checked first before replacing EGR valve itself?

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by new_waverider

Does this information also apply to my 2000 Camry LE-4 cyl? Should I have this checked first before replacing EGR valve itself?

Yes

Most of the time it is the EGR MODULATOR and/or the EGR VSV as described above. Make sure the vacuum lines are also CLEAN as are the throttle body ports.

[JackArse]

so i finally went in and performed the surgery this afternoon, after cleaning the vacuum tubes and egr and modulator didn't work. All in all, it took just a little bit over an hour. The hardest part i had was undoing the bolt to start, and was the longest part, trying to figure out how to get the leverage, so i placed the ratchet in place, then stallone'd it, and went over the top. aww yeah. came undone, loosened it by hand from underneath, undid the vacuum tubes, then figured out why it's better to take off the electrical connector BEFORE loosening the bolt all the way. everything went on pretty quick, the electrical connector required a bit of force to get in, but nothing out of the ordinary due to the seal in it. I also did not disc the battery, mainly because i want to watch if the CEL goes off on it's own after a day or so. Still haven't been able to find out what the Camrys/Toyota's recommended engine cycle is. here's a couple of pics from the right wheel well area. VSV1 is from next to the brake. VSV3 is straight back from the cv boot.
http://bb.1asphost.com/JackArse/vsv1.jpg
http://bb.1asphost.com/JackArse/vsv3.jpg

[candlectj]

thank you for the detail information.

[jerovo61]

This thread was most helpful.

Thanks to all!