Paint Detail (By Hand)

pburgi · #1 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 09:54 AM

I've read a lot of the threads here in the detailing section but still have a couple of questions and was hoping to get some help. I have an 04" Phantom Gray DC that I bought used. I've had it a bout a year and although the paint looks pretty good it doesn't feel all that smooth after a wax (not sure which wax was used).

I've read the stickys but can't afford to drop $200 on a PC with all the pads needed to do the job the best way. I'm hoping to get one in the future. My brother has a Milwaukee Polisher (it's not random orbital and may leave swirl marks if I'm not mistaken). I would need to get new pads for it though. I was planning on doing this all by hand.

I have the car soap and a mothers clay bar kit. I haven't purchased the waxes or polishes yet. My goal is to get the paint clean and contaminate free while making the truck look as good as possible.

Would you guys give some recommendations of what to use (and the steps involved) after I wash and clay my truck? Again assume I'm doing this by hand unless you think I should breakout the Milwaukee (if this is the case I wouldn't want to use anything on the aggressive side and would need to know where to get a good pad for it). I'm hoping to get this done tomorrow.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this, and consider my situation!

Brandon1 · #2 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 03:20 PM

Go with a wash and a clay, then some Duragloss #101 followed by #105. The 101 cleans the paint, and the 105 seals it in.

That should/would be the best combo by hand IMO.

pburgi · #3 (**permalink**) 05-19-2008, 01:00 PM

Brandon, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I looked all over for Duragloss stuff. None of the stores carry Duragloss in my area, I even tried Parts Plus and NAPA (claimed dealers on the Duragloss website).

I ended up washing with dish soap (figured it didn't matter being that I was cleaning the paint any way. I then used a Mothers Clay Bar kit, following the clay bar with Meguire's Scratch X in a few places (for defect removal), then I used the supplied Mothers cleaner wax (came with clay bar). I topped it off with the Meguire's NXT 2 wax.

I wish I would have been able to get the Duragloss stuff. I would have waited to order the stuff online but I wasn't sure when I would have a full day free again to work on this. I'm interested in you feedback on the steps I took and product I used. Maybe I should order the Duragloss stuff for next time.

I'm actually very impressed with the outcome (if your interested I'll get some pics up). The paint was very rough before even after a regular wax. Now it feels perfectly sooth and looks great. I must admit I'm a novice when it comes to detail work though.

LifeTech · #4 (**permalink**) 05-19-2008, 05:38 PM

Its the clay that works miracles for sure.

mmulcahy1 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-20-2008, 12:07 PM

I've read lots of stuff about NOT using a clay bar. Claims that they're only for removing overspray during the original paint job and not for what we use them for.

Any thoughts?

RCBS · #6 (**permalink**) 05-20-2008, 01:24 PM

i was astounded the first time i used a clay bar. i don't think they help if your finish is destroyed already, but if your paint is in decent condition it should work wonders. i think my truck was smoother after 15,000mi and a clay job than when i got it new.

Brandon1 · #7 (**permalink**) 05-20-2008, 02:32 PM

Clay is for use on any paint contaminates. Can be used 100000000 times with no ill effects.

OP-your steps were fine. NXT 2.0 is a good sealant/wax. The cleaner wax helped take out some nasty icky grime, so you should be fine.

Order from We Are Car Care -- Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store and you will have your stuff in like 3 days.