Hey - I picked up a new 2010 Tundra Double Cab Rock Warrior package in BLACK a few days ago & black paint shows everything. I would appreciate any help you can offer about how to protect the paint and take care of this new truck that is showing EVERYTHING - every fingerprint, mark - I rubbed it with my finger and I think that scratched the paint on the roof. So, I am looking for the best & easiest products to get to do it myself WITHOUT any machines, polishers, etc to protect the black paint and to have it stay shiny and not show marks, prints, or swirls I have read others complaining about.
So - curious about what you all have done with your black trucks that works and is easy to do - the best products and which order and when to apply them.
The dealer said to wait 3 months from date truck was built which was July so I guess around October the paint should be 100% cured. I know some posts say it should be cured already but want to make sure.
I have read that a lot of products - 3M, Mothers, Klasse etc are often used in auto body shops and also have silicone and some abrasives - I do not want anything abrasive. I have read about using a claybar but think that is very complicated and hard to use - that would be done after washing to remove any debri I believe but as this truck is new, I do not know if that would even be something I would need to use right now.
I have heard of Klasse products - sealant glaze and all in 1, Gliptone(?), and of carnuba wax. I do not know if these products are the best or do not have any abrasives and I do not know what to do first to initially try to PROTECT/SEAL the paint - clearcoat, glaze - I have no idea which procedure to do first and then how and when to follow it up and doing what?
So, these would be my many questions - never had black paint before & starting to wish I didn't get black - so pleasssse help!!
1) For 1st wash/dry on black paint which products are the best for washing AND drying?
- How often do you wash/dry truck with black paint?
- I have heard about California water blade used in conjunction with a chamois or 100%
cotton or microfiber towel.
- I used to use a soft brush on pole to wash - that will be too harsh on this paint?
2) After 1st wash/dry, when and what product(s) do I use to get the paint PROTECTED for the very 1st time initially? - like sealed or glazed - whatever is best 1st initial protection to use as the 1st thing ever applied over the new black paint?
- How long do these product(s) last and how often do they need to be reapplied? Is
there one that is best that also lasts the longest?
3) After very 1st wash, in addition to the 1st thing put on the truck to protect/seal the paint, do I use anything else and in what order - such as glaze, clear coat, sealant, wax?
4) What regimen do I follow everytime I wash the truck - do I always have to reapply the protectant that I will be using 1st? What other kinds of products (glazes, sealants, waxes, etc) do I use and do I use them after every wash?
6) Best products out there and easy to use - what order do I put them on the truck in?
Basically need any advice you can give with black paint - WHAT TO USE FOR VERY 1ST TIME that will NOT bubble, fade, discolor, etc. I have read a lot about using waxes a lot actually causes areas on black paint to fade and discolor. I do not know which caranuba wax is best and if the wax should always be applied last for that deep, wet shine?
I would also like to know if you recommend anything that shops do for $$$ that I might be able to consider having done when I get some $$$, but for now it looks like it will be DIY. I have heard about 3M but not really warranted an Venture or something like that but these all cost a lot of $ to get done - hopefully you guys know of some products and a regimen to follow that will work best.
OK, sounds like you have read it all as i have been trying to do. For me the main thing, I will not just go out and start hand washing our black vehicles. I do go to the car wash, spray it down with the pre-soak and then pressure wash it. Then i go home and hand wash with Zano car wash. I only wash my black vehicles at night. I will not wash it during the day unless i can get it completely out of the sun which around here is hard to do unless you wash it in the garage. Micro-fiber is the big key for me when washing and applying waxes.
I did try some of the new Turtle liquid ICE because of a friends recomendation and it works fairly easy, funny, like rubbing baby oil on to it. Main thing is if you get it on the black rubber it does not turn white which makes it nice...
Good luck with it, I wanted a black one bad, but i am already taking care of the STS in black and i drive way to much for it.
__________________ Thanks for all the information. Now have 2010 Tundra DC Sr5 sitting in driveway.
zeeya2000 ,
Griot's Garage sells decent detailing stuff. For waxing, look at Swissvax Saphir wax. Not cheap but not anywhere close to being the most expensive either. Detailer's Domain sells alot of good quality detailing material too. Griots for most stuff, Swissvax for the wax. Look at detailer's domain for some great how to instructions and videos.
google the swissvax wax and you will find detailer's domain. The swissvax stuff doesn't leave white residue on the rubber or in the cracks and all.
Last edited by chuckles46; 09-05-2009 at 05:45 PM.
I have a 08. I am already tired of black for the same reasons you are seeing. I agree with the above posts. NEVER hand wash without going through a touchless wash first. Wipe with only micofiber. I use Turtle Wax Ice. Very easy to use. I don't think it is as durable as other waxes. But it is so easy to use, I don't mind making the Tundra shine more often. Good luck and don't let the black drive you crazy.
black cars have always been a pain in the butt... even if u get some swirls in it keep a good coat of wax on it to minimize them and just be super careful not to use towels or carwashes or whatever else.....
Get some "Martha Stewart" line towels from Kmart(if they still sell them?)They are far better then any micro fiber towel.
They are true 100% cotton and will not scratch the finish.
The majority of towels sold these days as "100% Cotton" are not,they use nylon thread to sew the edges and they scratch like a MO'FO.
I have a few trophy's from showing an 01 Navy Blue Metallic Camaro SS and 04 Black Z/06,both very sensitive skinned,but show Winners if done correctly.
Maguires has a Pro line of products that produce results comparable to anything Zano has on the market.
Love the Maguires stuff personally
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Ok, you've got to decide how picky you're going to be. Either stick with consumer line products and hand waxing and accept the fact that you're going to have imperfections over time... or join some detailing forums like ones on Meguiarsonline or autogeek.net (I'm sure there are many others), and learn about detailing your vehicle the right way and what's working for others. Remember that the paint and clear coat on most new vehicles is lousy thanks to environmentalist whackos, so accept the fact that you'll never be able to maintain that just-off-the-showroom-floor look. You're probably going to get a hundred different opinions and product recommendations, but for starters, I'd have to say Meguiars Gold Class car wash, a soft microfiber mitt and Meguiars NXT 2.0 or #20 or #21 sealant in their pro line. Honestly, do your research then spend a couple hundred bucks on a Porter Cable buffer, some good quality pads, and polishing and sealing products.
Ditto! I've had nothing but silver rides once I found out how easy they camoflauge dirt, scratches, small scuffs, etc. until I can get it cleaned up.
Best of luck with finding methods of keeping the black clean but it sounds like you've done tons of research and a few more folks are offering additional tips to help with paint maintenance.
__________________
Manuel aka "Manny"- EVERYTHING is bigger in TX!!!!
Tint so deep you can't feel the heat, Carriage Works Billet Grille, K&N 63 Series CAI, true dual w/2-40 Series FlowMasters, stainless steel tips out each side, OEM fender flares, 2-12" Kicker CVTs, 1200 Watt Hifonics Brutus Mono Block, extreme white PIAA driving lights, Aries bull bar, Leer 100XR camper, and wireless backup camera.
I sure like the Duragloss products,been using them since 04; no complaints. For less than $30.00 I can get their Pre-Polish,Clearcote Polish and Aquawax spray on Sealant to my door.Called 'em a couple times with questions,you'll talk to one of two brothers that are the chemists that developed the stuff,so no guesses.As with some other synthetic Sealants,you can get it on anything,even glass, with no messes. My 4Runner is as dark a color as I'll ever have (Salsa Red) thought it would be tough to maintain but it isn't with this stuff. Gotta use the Pre-Polish first,then apply the Polish right over the Pre-Polish,then buff'em off after they haze. One acts as a catalyst on the other,in other words ,they 're-act' with each other. After 12 hours or so, spray on the Aquawax,wipe off ,then buff.....All of this is done with the best Microfiber cloths you can afford! DuraGloss says their stuff can be applied in sun or shade too! Disclaimer: I have Absolutely Nothing to do with DuraGloss,just a satisfied customer trying to help PS, Hey Negra, tell us more about the towels that you think are better than Microfiber. Theres a K-Mart not far from me
bottom line is, it doesnt matter what you do to your paint on these trucks. if you dont put that 3m clear cover stuff on the front. you will end up with a sandblasted, rock chipped front end. the paint they use on new vehicles is sh!t. if i had my time back, that 3m stuff wouldve been the first thing i did. but its too late now, so im just going to have the whole truck re-painted properly next year. then ill worry about what i do to take care of the paint.
and BTW, a clay bar is extremely simple to use. just buy a good one, like meguiars, and follow the directions. and if you want some really good advice, just google detail forums. there are guys on those forums that do those insane 50 hour detail jobs, where they even out the paint and everything, on lambos and ferraris. you wont find better advice anywhere else.
Have had black cars, my Tundra is Nautical Blue which is pretty dark also.
Really don't think you need to go to a drive thru first and i would never spray those harsh chemicals there on my vehicle.
The water you use should be soft first off. hard water is a bear in dark vehicles.
Next spray it down getting the surface stuff off, fill a bucket with cold soft water and enough good quality car wash soap to get some good sudsing action going. The soap lubes the surface and carries away grit and grime.
Get a soft wash mit I like the micro fiber ones that are fluffy, with long fiber twists. Get that thing soaked and on top panels I like to let a bunch of soapy water run all over first and then gently move it over the surface of the vehicle. Frequently rinse the mit in the soap bucket and bring more fresh soapy water to the vehicle paint. On side panels i start at the top and first pass will just run the mit along the top body line allowing plenty of soapy water to get all over the body before I move the mitt over the surface. if an area is a bit extra dirty like the rockers, wheels, front bumper from bugs I will hit those areas last. Don't wanna foul up your wash mit while there are still main body panels to wash. I will use a different wash mit for the wheels cause there is abrasive dust all over them. Use plenty of soapy water and turn and rinse the wash mit often.
Rinse it off. I like the California jelly blade to get the big part of the water off, works great! Then i will finish drying it with a waffle weave towel. Don't forget to dry door jambs.
Man since the vehicle is black I would get a waxing product that first and for most is easy to apply and remove. you don't wanna have to do any hard rubbing on that paint. I really like a product by the Wax Shop called Super Glaze. Its a glaze/wax combo that is so easy on and off! I apply it with a damp foam pad. Do the whole vehicle in the shade of course, when done remove it with a clean micro fiber towel. They say you should move the application pad and removal towel in the direction the wind moves over the surface and not a circular pattern. If the vehicle is outside often and driven a lot I would try and wax it like once a month or so, you may get a way with every other month. When the water stops beading on it you know it's time.
Good luck.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
Have had black cars, my Tundra is Nautical Blue which is pretty dark also.
Really don't think you need to go to a drive thru first and i would never spray those harsh chemicals there on my vehicle.
The water you use should be soft first off. hard water is a bear in dark vehicles.
Next spray it down getting the surface stuff off, fill a bucket with cold soft water and enough good quality car wash soap to get some good sudsing action going. The soap lubes the surface and carries away grit and grime.
Get a soft wash mit I like the micro fiber ones that are fluffy, with long fiber twists. Get that thing soaked and on top panels I like to let a bunch of soapy water run all over first and then gently move it over the surface of the vehicle. Frequently rinse the mit in the soap bucket and bring more fresh soapy water to the vehicle paint. On side panels i start at the top and first pass will just run the mit along the top body line allowing plenty of soapy water to get all over the body before I move the mitt over the surface. if an area is a bit extra dirty like the rockers, wheels, front bumper from bugs I will hit those areas last. Don't wanna foul up your wash mit while there are still main body panels to wash. I will use a different wash mit for the wheels cause there is abrasive dust all over them. Use plenty of soapy water and turn and rinse the wash mit often.
Rinse it off. I like the California jelly blade to get the big part of the water off, works great! Then i will finish drying it with a waffle weave towel. Don't forget to dry door jambs.
Man since the vehicle is black I would get a waxing product that first and for most is easy to apply and remove. you don't wanna have to do any hard rubbing on that paint. I really like a product by the Wax Shop called Super Glaze. Its a glaze/wax combo that is so easy on and off! I apply it with a damp foam pad. Do the whole vehicle in the shade of course, when done remove it with a clean micro fiber towel. They say you should move the application pad and removal towel in the direction the wind moves over the surface and not a circular pattern. If the vehicle is outside often and driven a lot I would try and wax it like once a month or so, you may get a way with every other month. When the water stops beading on it you know it's time.
Good luck.
In addition to this, you can also use a 2-bucket wash method. The 2nd bucket is purely for "rinsing" off the mitt after you've washed a section of truck, then back into the suds for the next panel.
I have a friend who is a detailing fanatic. He said the Zaino was superb, but he's leery of trying it because it's susceptible to humidity and is very prone to streaking during application/removal, so he generally sticks with Meguiars because they're typically gentle products and give excellent results. He just has to re-apply the sealant more often than he would with Zaino. He also recommends the Porter Cable 7424XP and I'll confirm from experience that it's pretty much "bubba proof". If I can do it, anyone can. There is a lot of acreage to clean on our trucks so trust me, a dual-action polisher is a lifesaver. If you do decide to buy a machine, DO NOT buy a rotary buffer like Makita or DeWalt, thinking it's better. Those are best left to professional detailers. Also I avoid spring and fall polishing due to pollen here in the south- esp. spring. By the time I get the truck dried, there's enough pollen on the surfaces to turn a waxing job into a light sanding job.
Best new truck black paint protection regimen
Re: Best new truck black paint protection regimen
Thanks for all the information. Now have 2010 Tundra DC Sr5 sitting in driveway.
PS, Hey Negra, tell us more about the towels that you think are better than Microfiber. Theres a K-Mart not far from me
2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
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