Touch-up Paint

[csawyer]

Alright guys, I finally got some touch-up paint from the dealership. I'm amazed at how well it actually matches the paint on my truck. I've started to gradually fill in the rock chips and a couple of scratches. With a couple of applications, I've got them built up so that I'm now ready to wet sand and buff. I read the thread about scratch repair that someone else posted before, but honestly, I'm terrified of taking sandpaper to my truck. I have looked around all the auto parts stores locally and I'm only finding 1500 and 2000 grit paper. Do I need anything finer than that or will those work? I'm guessing I start VERY lightly with the 1500 just to bring down the level of the paint and then move to the 2000 to finish the sanding. Do you sand in circles or just go with the direction of the scratch? What about for the rock chips? Is it better to use water, or would I be safer with a spray detailer for a little more lubrication? After that, will compound and orange pad on PC be the next step to remove dull look and any swirl marks? I wish I had an inconspicuous place to practice this first, but the scratches are in noticeable areas. Stupid, #%$#%$, freaking, #%$#%$, jackass, #%$#%$ people who don't care about rubbing against or bumping other people's vehicles!!!! Sorry, had to get that off my chest. Any advice you guys have that might keep me from destroying my paint would be much appreciated!!

[eharri3]

Alright guys, I finally got some touch-up paint from the dealership. I'm amazed at how well it actually matches the paint on my truck. I've started to gradually fill in the rock chips and a couple of scratches. With a couple of applications, I've got them built up so that I'm now ready to wet sand and buff. I read the thread about scratch repair that someone else posted before, but honestly, I'm terrified of taking sandpaper to my truck. I have looked around all the auto parts stores locally and I'm only finding 1500 and 2000 grit paper. Do I need anything finer than that or will those work? I'm guessing I start VERY lightly with the 1500 just to bring down the level of the paint and then move to the 2000 to finish the sanding. Do you sand in circles or just go with the direction of the scratch? What about for the rock chips? Is it better to use water, or would I be safer with a spray detailer for a little more lubrication? After that, will compound and orange pad on PC be the next step to remove dull look and any swirl marks? I wish I had an inconspicuous place to practice this first, but the scratches are in noticeable areas. Stupid, #%$#%$, freaking, #%$#%$, jackass, #%$#%$ people who don't care about rubbing against or bumping other people's vehicles!!!! Sorry, had to get that off my chest. Any advice you guys have that might keep me from destroying my paint would be much appreciated!!

I normally don't sand. I'll use anything other than the brush it came with, most usually a match stick, in order to fill that chip in without piling too much paint on so that sanding is less likely to be necessary. Then a dab of clear on top. For bigger chips I'll tape around it and as close to the chip as I possibly can so the sandpaper can't even get to the surrounding paint. A little wet 2000 grit or so on a pencil eraser, and I'll rub gently just to smooth the clear out. Then I might hand buff a small area with a little buffing compound, hand polish, and re-wax. With small individual imperfections don't get too elaborate with tiny repairs, sometimes it just expands the area you need to work with. That is unless this is one large area with lots of scars on a given panel where you have to basically bring back a large area of paint.

[tsolomon]

I agree, don't worry too much about small chips. I know you would like to make them look perfect but that is really unlikely going to happen. It is very easy to cause a dimple with 2000 grit paper if you are not careful. When you sand the area you will be decreasing the thickness of your clear coat. It is nearly impossible to only sand the area you have filled in. If you do sand, use water and very light pressure. As far as sanding left to right or in circles, it depends on the size and type of scratch but basically be careful and gentle and check your work very frequently to make sure you are achieving the results you want. You can always sand more but you can't add to what you've removed. Even 2000 grit will buff out fine by hand with a scratch remover like Meguires Scratch X or Nu Finish Scratch Doctor. I've used the 2000 grit paper and these products personally many times. I prefer the Nu Finish but they will both do fine for such hand work.
Take it from someone who has screwed up many times, don't sand unless you have too! I've learned from my mistakes but if I could go back and do it all over again, I really didn't need to sand 99% of the time.

[eharri3]

I agree, don't worry too much about small chips. I know you would like to make them look perfect but that is really unlikely going to happen. It is very easy to cause a dimple with 2000 grit paper if you are not careful. When you sand the area you will be decreasing the thickness of your clear coat. It is nearly impossible to only sand the area you have filled in. If you do sand, use water and very light pressure. As far as sanding left to right or in circles, it depends on the size and type of scratch but basically be careful and gentle and check your work very frequently to make sure you are achieving the results you want. You can always sand more but you can't add to what you've removed. Even 2000 grit will buff out fine by hand with a scratch remover like Meguires Scratch X or Nu Finish Scratch Doctor. I've used the 2000 grit paper and these products personally many times. I prefer the Nu Finish but they will both do fine for such hand work.
Take it from someone who has screwed up many times, don't sand unless you have too! I've learned from my mistakes but if I could go back and do it all over again, I really didn't need to sand 99% of the time.

Same here. All I'll say is I've tried my hand at a few blemishes on some past beaters and ended up trying to clean up a whole half a panel that started as just a scratch or a chip. Taught me the value of starting with the least extreme measures and working my way up rather than going the opposite way.

[csawyer]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to just be as neat as I can with the rock chips and just try not to look so close. The bigger concern for me is the scratch on the side of the bed in front of the passenger side taillight. It stood out like a sore thumb. I have gradually filled it with the touch-up paint so that it is now actually about a 3" long bump rather than the into the metal scratch it started out as. Based on your replies and on some other directions I found, I think I'm going to use Meguiars Unigrit 2000 paper with soapy water and a soft sanding pad lightly sanding in one direction checking the level every couple of passes. I'll dry and feel between passes until I get it to the level I want it. If I do this correctly, I should be left with a hazy appearance that I can buff out with Meguiars Scratch Fix and Ultimate Compound. I didn't take any pictures before I started the touch-up process, but I'll take one of the before and during sanding and then another after the buffing. Say a couple of prayers for me...

[tsolomon]

Ya, for me it was always the need for "perfection" and "impatience" that pushed me to do stuff that wasn't really as necessary as I would have made myself believe it was. I know your pain eharri3.

Good luck with your work getting out your scratch!

[eharri3]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to just be as neat as I can with the rock chips and just try not to look so close. The bigger concern for me is the scratch on the side of the bed in front of the passenger side taillight. It stood out like a sore thumb. I have gradually filled it with the touch-up paint so that it is now actually about a 3" long bump rather than the into the metal scratch it started out as. Based on your replies and on some other directions I found, I think I'm going to use Meguiars Unigrit 2000 paper with soapy water and a soft sanding pad lightly sanding in one direction checking the level every couple of passes. I'll dry and feel between passes until I get it to the level I want it. If I do this correctly, I should be left with a hazy appearance that I can buff out with Meguiars Scratch Fix and Ultimate Compound. I didn't take any pictures before I started the touch-up process, but I'll take one of the before and during sanding and then another after the buffing. Say a couple of prayers for me...

How are you applying the touch up paint???
The brush that comes with the bottle is the absolute worst thing to use.

[csawyer]

I started with a toothpick to fill the actual scratch itself, as it was deep through the paint and into the metal. It took a couple of applications that way to bring it up. Then I used the brush that the bottle came with. It's actually a much finer tipped brush than what I'm used to seeing in touch-up paint and put the paint down nicely. I now have a ridge where the scratch was. I haven't had time to get into the sanding and stuff yet. Hope to get to that soon.

[laynlow]

This describes me exactly!

Ya, for me it was always the need for "perfection" and "impatience" that pushed me to do stuff that wasn't really as necessary as I would have made myself believe it was. I know your pain eharri3.

Good luck with your work getting out your scratch!

[laynlow]

We just got a small chip in our 2010 Sequoia Platinum (White Blizzard) tailgate.
In reading a couple of the touch up suggestions you guys mention and you suggest applying "clear" once you've completed the color touch up. Do I need to order the clear from Toyota as well? Or do I get that from somewhere else?

Thanks!

[JaredPointer]

Just my guess and all, but I would assume if you wanted to use clear, most any of it would match.

I know this is old thread and all, but I highly suggest/recommend Meg's Unigrit paper. Local body shops may either have it or can order it for you. In the case where I do touch ups, I generally go with 1000, 2000, and sometimes 3000 grit, all dependent on what I am working with at the time.

And FWIW, I usually don't apply clear to my touchups and most of the time I can't tell a difference where the chip used to be and after the repair until I start using some sort of magnification.

[Boosted27606]

I have found that when touching up rock chips or even scratches ( even deep down to the metal ) the following tools and techniques work well:
1. Get a few very tiny paint brushes from a hobby store ( Marshall's or such )

2. Get the tube of touch up paint ( make sure it is the proper color)

3. Get a can of Acetone ( Home Depot, Lowe's )

The consistency of the paint in the touch up jar is typically way too thick, so when you are ready to paint, mix some paint in a small container with maybe 20% of acetone to thin in down a bit.

Now, clean the area to be painted with a solvent ( or with acetone), let dry and get ready to paint.

Use the smallest paint brush you have and carefully dip in the paint mix and dab into the area to be repaired. Don't worry if it does not fill the crack (yet). Add a layer or two until the hole is filled with new paint. Take your time until the new paint protrudes slightly over the surrounding paint surface.

Let dry and get ready to buff with a foam pad ( rotary buffer )

if you have been careful it will be very difficult to see where the repair was !

My first Tundra was black and very scratched up when I bought it. After several very patient paint interventions, I sold the truck for $3000 more than I bought it for, thanks to the shiny and flawless paint....