Another Autogeek Question

[FUNGUS]

So, I am ready to pull the trigger and get some serious detailing done on my 08 Pyrite Mica Crewmax and my '11 Sizzling Crimson Highlander. I have read most of the forums and learned a TON from autogeek and really want to get rid of some swirls and some light defects. I am looking at this kit

Pinnacle Porter Cable 7424 Kit, Lake country ccs pads, polishing pads, porter cable pads, porter cable kit

I really want to make these vehicles pop and they have NEVER been detailed with a power polisher or anything greater than carnuba wax. I have a few deep scratches in the tundra that cannot be felt with a fingernail and I am willing to try most everything to get rid of them. I also have a few spots that people door dinged me and have transferred their paint onto my truck. I can post pics if necessary.

The point to all of this is, I am a power detailing newb. Seriously, and I know enough to get the job done (I think) without hurting anything. Any pointers for a complete newb other than to clay bar before I do this? Does this kit have EVERYTHING I'll need to get the swirls and small scratches out? Thanks guys.

[Brandon1]

The kit "should" have everything, but a large part of correction detailing is the product and process used on each car. I spend a good bit of time on each correction I do finding the perfect product/pad combination for the job I'm about to do. Sometimes I can use the same product as the last car, sometimes I need a different brand. Pinnacles swirl removers and polishes are good stuff, and Liquid Soverign is a very nice wax (although not very durable).

I'd suggest picking up a few orange CCS cutting pads (5.5" pads only, no 6.5" pads), and a few white CCS pads. Then find a versitile compound such as Meguiars #105, and a versitile polish such as Meguiars #205, and a sealant such as Duragloss 105, Zaino, Optimum, Poorboys, Klasse, Four Star UPP etc. You can add another versitile polish such as Wolfgang Swirl remover to the mix, and maybe a Meguiars microfiber cutting pad set (5.5") to round out your system.

And yes, clay before you polish and make sure your towels, wash media, soaps and detailers are all up to par.

[myToy09]

Tagged....thanks for the info. Trying to learn, bookmarking/tagging as I go.

[FUNGUS]

Thanks for the info brandon. I am unsure though as to how exactly to use this stuff. I watched the videos but am still a little lost on what sequence for everything. I know wash first, clay bar, swirl remover, sealer?, wax (carnuba?), finish wax? DOes that sound about right? Thanks again for all the help

[kerryman71]

If you were to use some of the products Brandon mentioned you would do it in this order.

1) Meguiar's # 105 Compound
2) Meguiar's # 205 Polish
3) Duragloss # 105 Total Performance Polish (Synthetic Wax)

I personally use this sequence.

1) Meguiar's # 105 Compound (If needed)
2) Meguiar's # 205 Polish
3) Meguiar's # 7 Show Car Glaze
4) Duragloss # 601 Polish Bonding Agent
5) Duragloss # 105 Total Performance Polish
6) Poorboy's Natty Red Carnauba Wax

This of course is after washing and claying. You could get away with just the top 3 and be fine. The glaze and carnauba wax are extra and I feel gives it that extra pop you're looking for. The polish bonding agent is supposed to extend the protection of the Duragloss # 105. Another nice addition would be Duragloss # 951 spray wax for in between major details.

John

[FUNGUS]

Perfect. Thanks for the info. I am probably going to try to bust this out this weekend. I am just nervous, starting this on the wife's 2011 dark red car. Do you suggest a certain place to start until I get the hang of this thing? Shoud I start on my 08 tundra first to get the hang of things? Thanks again.

[Jumbo Jet]

The PC doesnt take much to get the hang of it. If youre nervous, head to a junk yard and buy an old trunk lid off of a small car. Try and find a color that is close to your cars and practice on that until you feel comfortable heading to your own car or truck. When I first got into this I bought a truck lid off a red Neon for $5 and abused the heck out of it. I learned how to wet sand, rotary and PC off of that $5 lid. When I was finished it looked brand new.

You'll be fine, the PC is easy to use and unless you drop it on the car, you wont hurt a thing.

[FUNGUS]

Thanks for the heads up. I am just going to have to sack up and get it done. Thanks again. I still have nightmares of the turtle wax scratch remover I used as a kid and the haze it made. The wife would kill me if I did that to her new car.

[kerryman71]

I really doubt you'll have a problem. The products are much different today. As Brandon has mentioned in the past as well as Jumbo Jet, you'd have to drop the machine on the car to do any damage. Just work small areas at a time with the compound and polish, something like 2' X 2'. Work the product in for several minutes until it pretty much comes to a haze and wipe off, then move to the next area. The compound and polish are the most time consuming as you're trying to work out scratches and imperfections. After that it moves pretty quickly as you're just applying and removing, not so much working the product in. The glaze I mentioned you also apply in smaller sections and remove before drying, but the bonding agent and waxes you can apply to the whole vehicle and let dry to a haze and remove. Just remember, a little goes a long way.

I use the machine with the different pads to apply all the product, although it's not necessary aside of the first two. I find it just moves a lot quicker and less wear on my arm. Just follow the directions on the bottles and you should have no problem. Make sure you take plenty of before and after pics. They'll be expected .

John