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DetailingGeneral discussion forum for detailing your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "How To Remove Wax Residue From Plastic", within the Detailing forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Originally posted by KDTundra Well I took the dive! Just received the Porter Cable 7336SP with hook and Loop standard pad to fit the Griot's polish and wax pads and their "best of show wax" and #3 Polish (for some scratches and swirls) and am ready to go. I remember that there's been lots of discussion about the plastic fender flares and some waxes that leave that ugly white residue. Man, what a pain in the A** to get off and evidence of a poor job!!
I'm aware that 3M 303 can be effective in reducing or eliminating this prior to applying polish and wax. Need your input prior to getting the Tundra and 4Runner summer ready. Is this the best proiduct to prevent this with a Random Orbital?
I've done this by hand over the last 35 years, but that 'ol rotator cuff is starting to bark!! Read many submittals about the advantages of the Random Orbital and the Griot's waxes and polishers that are designed to keep your paint cool under application. Any of your experience would be greatly appreciated !!
KDTundra
If you dry your vehicles with a microfiber towel you'll find that when it's damp it's pretty effective at removing old wax and polish too. That's usually when I remove any extra wax and polish. With my last drying towel after I've washed it. (I use two microfiber towels to dry my truck. One for the front, one for the rear.)
You have to scrub a little with you finger a little on the rough plastic and the wheel well insulators but that alone can remove most wax and polish.
At least for the waxes I use. If you just use water you don't have to worry about cleaning of any stray vinyl treatment from the pain.
I just bought some of that orange cleaner at Wallmart yesterday and it took the wax right off. I think it was $2.98 for a huge bottle and it's in the automotive section. Can't beat that price.
Thanks for all your advice. I waxed the Tundra about 2 weeks ago with the random orbital and Griot's "Best of Show" wax and man what a job!!! It's as deep a shine as they claim.
I was a little sloppy around the molding and fender flares which left the residue. SATundra has had a great luck with 303 Aerospace cleaner which I'm trying to pick up locally. The eraser and orange cleaner was a new one! Thanks.
KDTundra
__________________
2001 Tundra Access Cab, SR-5, 4X4, TRD Off Road Pkg., 4.7 L, Stellar Blue w/ ARE "Z" Series camper shell. Flowmaster Cat Back Exhaust System #17425.
I just finished waxing my truck and also wiped the inside vinyl with Turtelewax 2001 super protectant (I expect this is the same product as ArmorAll or STP protectant) and decided to try this on the outside trim on the bed and wheel wells that had overwipe from the waxing. I had residue from previous waxings that was over a year old and removed all of these with the wipes in less than 5 minutes. The best thing about the wipes is that they are portable (fit in a flat zip lock packet and can be carried in the glove box) and cost about 3 dollars at WallyWorld. This was the easiest and cheapest fix I've tried.
I get wax on those anti-bang door bars that stretch across our doors. I use Mothers Back-to-Black on those, my bumper, and the mirror holders- everything black plastic. Makes it look new and dark, even when it doesn't necessarily need it. I also gets the wax off those door bars, or covers over it.
How can you remove the wax that gets on the plastics / bedliner?
...terrible white residue!!!
peanut butter.
__________________ ~Glenn~
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Once you have taken care of the residue problem, find your local Hraley shop and go buy some S100 wax. Comes in a small white jar with a blue lid. About 10.00 a jar. You will not have to worry about the white residue again and it is VERY easy to use. Trust me, I have gone through the same process until I had help from some gentlemen on this forum. Try it, you won't regret it
Once you have taken care of the residue problem, find your local Hraley shop and go buy some S100 wax. Comes in a small white jar with a blue lid. About 10.00 a jar. You will not have to worry about the white residue again and it is VERY easy to use. Trust me, I have gone through the same process until I had help from some gentlemen on this forum. Try it, you won't regret it
Another good wax that won't leave a white residue is P21S. Expensove but very easy to aplly and polish off. It is a mixture of carnuba and beeswax,
__________________ ~Glenn~
Forum Rules
Searching for an answer to your Tundra or other Toyota question? search HERE!
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Another good wax that won't leave a white residue is P21S. Expensove but very easy to aplly and polish off. It is a mixture of carnuba and beeswax,
Ditto the P21S.
If you look at the most recent shots in my gallery, you're looking at a process of:
Clay
Klasse All In One cleaner/protectant
Klasse Super Glaze
24 hour wait
Klasse Super Glaze
24 hour wait
P21S
__________________ 2003 SR5 TRD V8
Better Built toolbox / Limited leather / Power outlet mod / Maplight mod / Horn mod / Wheelskins leather wheel wrap / RS3200 Plus / Rebadged w/TRD / Bully Nerf bars / '05 OEM Taillights / Clear corners / Tint / Factory Woodgrain kit / Gentex EC Mirror / Gaylord's Toolbox-Lid / MB Overdrives with Revos / Muthco Signal Mirrors / Sport Grille / TRD Dual Exhaust / Camry Nav System
Another good wax that won't leave a white residue is P21S. Expensove but very easy to aplly and polish off. It is a mixture of carnuba and beeswax,
I thought the P21S and S100 were basically the same, just marketed to different buyers (motorcycle-auto)? They are from the same company in Germany, and the containers are the same. May be a mistake on my part, but I thought they were one and the same. If not, I would suggest anyway, the S100 as a "cheaper" alternative... No residue