Welcome to the Detailing forum!!!!

[CountRingworm]

Ok, finally got some pictures taken of the truck after using brandon's methods about two weeks ago.

since then, it has pretty much rained non-stop, and i was doing some woodworking in the garage, so the truck was a rain-speckled, dust covered mess. and, i took a hunk out of my finger with the table saw during that time ( i can post a pic of that too if you'd like )

these are after the second washing last night. i also put them in my gallery.






Brandon's methods worked like a charm. unfortunately, i didn't have the power buffer so i had to do that treatment by hand. it was ok, but i'll have to see if i can rent one of those buffers somewhere or something, because there are a few scratches i'd really like to work on.

my only other comment is that i'd recommend getting two Meguiar's Water Magnet towels for drying. it seemed like i could only do about half the truck before i couldn't wring enough water out of the towel to make the second half look decent.

[Brandon1]

It looks great! One suggestion though, see how hard it would be to paint the dirty areas of the wheel wells. It really shows a negative contrast against the black paint/tires. Stands out more.

Other than that, it looks fantastic. Buy a PC, you will not regret it and it will pay for itself the first job you use it on.

[CountRingworm]

i noticed the wheel wells in the picture myself. i sprayed that extremely wet tire shine in there, it just didn't stay dark for some reason.

i had to do a little touchup on the bar behind the bumper when i bought this truck- it had a light coating of rust on it. i dremelled the rust off, primed and painted it flat black, looks fantastic. might have to see if that would work on the wheel wells.

or, maybe that spray paint you can buy that sets up rubbery- that might last longer with rock chips and what not than straight up paint. hmmm....

[Brandon1]

Yeah, I forgot to mention in the article, the tire shine will not help frames that are red/muddy. This tip is meant for wheel wells/frames that are dirty, not muddy and stained.

Rubberized undercoating will work, but plain old black spray paint and a good primer will work much better.

[CountRingworm]

Ok, second washing after a week of rainstorms. This time i used the Aquawax. I didn't read the bottle fully and waited til the truck dried before Aquawaxing, something i won't recommend. it looks great from about 10-12 feet away, but it left some little bubble-like marks that i needed to buff out with some extra elbow grease.

I also attempted the black spraypaint in the wheel wells- i like the results but i think i need a little bit more.







don't mind my shadow in that pic.

[Brandon1]

I use AW when the truck is dry with no ill effects. Just make sure you chomis the truck dry, then put AW on the paint using the wipe on wipe off method so you dont get spots.

Truck looks great man!

[CountRingworm]

just a follow-up. washed and aquawaxed again last night (rain storm earlier this week), and this time i used the aquawax right after the rinse, before drying it.

the truck looks amazing! i'm really happy with the result of that combo.

also, any opinions on the Eagle1 Nano vinyl protectant? i used that on my soft tonneau cover, seemed to work really nice. that's the best it's looked since i had it installed.

[Brandon1]

I like the EO nano stuff, and it smells nice. It's just a little expensive.

[KLINDSEY]

Brandon,
I'm going to go out and buy some of the Duraglos line of products, it is going to get warm enough for detailing in about month or so.
Of the Duraglos line which products in which sequence would I use from after wash and clay on? Thanks ahead of time.
Kevin

[Brandon1]

Originally Posted by KLINDSEY

Brandon,
I'm going to go out and buy some of the Duraglos line of products, it is going to get warm enough for detailing in about month or so.
Of the Duraglos line which products in which sequence would I use from after wash and clay on? Thanks ahead of time.
Kevin

For me, I'd use something like #501 marine polish or #101 polish to get rid of the imbedded grime in the paint (wont remove swirls tho). Then #105 and #951 to seal the paint.

[KLINDSEY]

Originally Posted by Brandon1

For me, I'd use something like #501 marine polish or #101 polish to get rid of the imbedded grime in the paint (wont remove swirls tho). Then #105 and #951 to seal the paint.

I see for swirls,water spots, and scratches you like the Op system which is the best all around user freindly grade;

Optimum Compound
Or
Optimum Polish
My cars are in pretty good shape no real heavy marks,or deep swirls but winter is not over yet.
So far I like your system and Ideas.
Kevin

[Brandon1]

Optimum Polish is more versitile than OC, but wont remove as heavy of defects.

I'd just get Optimum Hyper Compound then Optimum Polish.

[Hextallron]

Hello all. First post for me, so it's nice to meet everyone here! Brandon - I was wondering if you have any experience with a product called The Bom? I used this stuff on my motorcycle and found it to be the best thing since sliced bread! Though, I fear it might be too expensive to use on my new Tundra. Expensive or not though...this or a similar product might be a good alternative for those folks who are under water restrictions and can't easily wet-wash. Your thoughts?

[Brandon1]

Never heard of BOM. Not sure of what that is, maybe a waterless wash?

lol, nothing is to expensive to use on your pride and joy. That statement has gotten my credit card burning more than once lol.