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DetailingGeneral discussion forum for detailing your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Window Trim Care", within the Detailing forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I have had my Tundra for about a month now. I bought it used from a guy that took it to the beach alot. Was wondering how I could keep the trimming maintained or if I should even worry about this. Does anyone have any idea of how to get rid of the spotting or prevent it from getting works. It seems to be occuring on all the trimming on all windows. Here are some pics.
Start out with a tiny bit of bleach on a rag and rub the affected area. Maybe some mildew remover and some #0000 steel wool can get you done. That is the only way I have found to remove those spots short of just getting new trim.
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, UWS Lo-Pro Toolbox Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, Kicker Comp 10", Ruger SR9 9mm in the console...
Start out with a tiny bit of bleach on a rag and rub the affected area. Maybe some mildew remover and some #0000 steel wool can get you done. That is the only way I have found to remove those spots short of just getting new trim.
So is this mildew or is it the saltwater eating away at the rubber?
After the bleach rub down, treat the trim with Klasse AIO if you have any. I use it alot on peoples cars and it really gives a nice shine and coat of protection to the trim. It will dirty your applicator pad at first, but after a few applications it will look great.
After the bleach rub down, treat the trim with Klasse AIO if you have any. I use it alot on peoples cars and it really gives a nice shine and coat of protection to the trim. It will dirty your applicator pad at first, but after a few applications it will look great.
i never thought about it being mildew! i thought it might be rust or something coming through. i'm definately going to try this tomorrow! where can i get that KLASSE AIO at? thanks alot for the info!!!
cool! thanks brandon! i got another question for ya. what is a clay bar exactaly and how is the best way to use it? again, thanks!
From the second your car leaves the factory it is exposed to all types of contaminents such as fall out, rail dust, brake dust from the car hauler, sea salt if it comes in by ship. These contaminents get embeded in your clearcoat leaving your paint feeling gritty and rough. Place your hand in a thin sandwhich baggie and rub it across your paint after you wash. The baggie will enhance the feeling in your finger tips. If it feels like fine grit sand paper then you need to clay.
Clay bars can be purchased at any auto parts store and the most popular brand seems to be Clay Magic (but due to registration laws its all the same). Take the clay and cut off a small piece of it, about 1/4 of the bar. Fold the clay flat and apply lube to the area you are claying. The clay comes with a bottle of lube but I just use the car wash shampoo and a bucket of water as its much cheaper and goes alot further. Apply plenty of lube and beging working a small area with the clay by rubbing it lightly across the paint back and forth. You will actually feel the clay pulling out the contaminents as you glide along. When the clay stopps pulling and the paint becomes smooth you'll know that area is finished. Take your baggie again and test the area. This time it should be as smooth as glass. Repeat the process until the entire car is done including the glass and chrome.
Keep in mind that the clay will remove any waxes or sealants you have on the car so be prepared to re-wax afterwards. You will be surprised at just how much dirt the clay pulls out of even a new car, and it will really enhance the finished detail of an older car.
Clay about every 6 months or as you feel its needed. I do my own cars 2 times a year with a major detail of claying, polishing and sealants. Then I just re-apply the sealant every month for good protection. But I never do a detail for anyone without claying first. Its one of the most important steps and one of the easiest too. Depending on the condition of the vehicle it should take an average of about 30 minutes to clay an entire car.
From the second your car leaves the factory it is exposed to all types of contaminents such as fall out, rail dust, brake dust from the car hauler, sea salt if it comes in by ship. These contaminents get embeded in your clearcoat leaving your paint feeling gritty and rough. Place your hand in a thin sandwhich baggie and rub it across your paint after you wash. The baggie will enhance the feeling in your finger tips. If it feels like fine grit sand paper then you need to clay.
Clay bars can be purchased at any auto parts store and the most popular brand seems to be Clay Magic (but due to registration laws its all the same). Take the clay and cut off a small piece of it, about 1/4 of the bar. Fold the clay flat and apply lube to the area you are claying. The clay comes with a bottle of lube but I just use the car wash shampoo and a bucket of water as its much cheaper and goes alot further. Apply plenty of lube and beging working a small area with the clay by rubbing it lightly across the paint back and forth. You will actually feel the clay pulling out the contaminents as you glide along. When the clay stopps pulling and the paint becomes smooth you'll know that area is finished. Take your baggie again and test the area. This time it should be as smooth as glass. Repeat the process until the entire car is done including the glass and chrome.
Keep in mind that the clay will remove any waxes or sealants you have on the car so be prepared to re-wax afterwards. You will be surprised at just how much dirt the clay pulls out of even a new car, and it will really enhance the finished detail of an older car.
Clay about every 6 months or as you feel its needed. I do my own cars 2 times a year with a major detail of claying, polishing and sealants. Then I just re-apply the sealant every month for good protection. But I never do a detail for anyone without claying first. Its one of the most important steps and one of the easiest too. Depending on the condition of the vehicle it should take an average of about 30 minutes to clay an entire car.
Hope that helped.
FREAKING AWSOME!!! that was some damn good info!! thanks jumbo jet! i'll be doing this this weekend. i've been a member with tundrasolutions for a year and i never knew there was a detailing forum! i just did the lifetime membership. you guys are AWSOME and i'll definately hit the detail forums everyday now! THANKS AGAIN FOR THE GREAT INFO!!!
I have had my Tundra for about a month now. I bought it used from a guy that took it to the beach alot. Was wondering how I could keep the trimming maintained or if I should even worry about this. Does anyone have any idea of how to get rid of the spotting or prevent it from getting works. It seems to be occuring on all the trimming on all windows. Here are some pics.
Mine had the same: I used the Mr. Clean Magic sponge on it followed by Poorboys Trim Restorer. Looks amazing now, but thats how I did it, Brandon1 and Jumbo Jett have a great method too.
FREAKING AWSOME!!! that was some damn good info!! thanks jumbo jet! i'll be doing this this weekend. i've been a member with tundrasolutions for a year and i never knew there was a detailing forum! i just did the lifetime membership. you guys are AWSOME and i'll definately hit the detail forums everyday now! THANKS AGAIN FOR THE GREAT INFO!!!
You are very welcome. I'm glad I could help you out.
Youre right. There are alot of good people here with great ideas and techniques. You'll get some good info here.
Window Trim Care
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Re: Window Trim Care
Re: Window Trim Care
