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Electrical & Computer SystemsDetails discussions regarding electrical components, wiring, all lighting, wire harnesses and HID conversion for your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "tunrda battery question", within the Electrical & Computer Systems forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
My 2002 stock battery finally died. I stopped at Auto Zone on my way home that morning from work and they guy gave me a battery that was smaller than the one I had. It also had smaller terminals. I could not get the connections tight enough on the negative, so I went back in and asked if he gave me the right battery. He said yes and came out to help me install the battery because I must have been an idiot. He was also unable to get the connections tight enough, or the bracket down onto the battery and tight. He finally got the negative tight after pounding on it. When I started the truck it idled a lot lower than it normally did, and almost stalled. I started it again and it seemed a little better. He told me there was a module that caused the low ideling and said it would get better. When I got home I noticed he had cracked the negative terminal. I finally got the right battery and returned the old one. I called the toyota dealer and was told I can not buy a replacement negative terminal, I had to buy the whole harness. Do I have to use a copper harness? Or can I buy a lead one from the parts store. I notice the truck seems to be idling at a lower RPM than before I changed the battery. Could a bad terminal cause this? What RPM should the truck be idling at? I have a v8. Thanks for you help. Happy Easter.
If your neg. terminal is cracked then the necessary voltage to run your truck is not being fully supplied(thats why you have a lower than normal idle) nor is your battery being fully charged.Don't be surprised if your truck suddenly dies on you and it won't start.The alternator is not supplying the proper amps. to run the truck because of the bad terminal.Get the copper,you have advanced electronics and copper conducts electricity better than iron and dissipates heat better also.If I were you I would get AutoZone to pay for the botched installed that caused the problem. Good Luck !
I spoke with the dealership and they said the negative terminal is attached to the whole truck wiring harness. The part alone is 422.00 and I have no idea what the install would cost. They said it is the harness that for the entire truck. I am guessing atleast 500.00 or more who knows. If I run into a problem with autozone paying for the repair (with my luck I will) can I put a lead one for the time being? I am going to fight this as much as I can. Thanks again for any help.
you can get a better aftermarket battery terminal for about $20. BUT, i would still try to get autozone to replace the stock one since they broke it, before you buy an aftermarket terminal. go to a car stereo shop and get a battery terminal if you can't get autozone to replace yours.
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint
in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's
to come:
JBL MS-8 + center channel speaker + components for the rear + sirius adapter for stock HU
The guy at autozone only told you it was the right one because the computer told him it was the right one. You have to make sure the CCA rating is the same, among other things. I would never let some one from autozone do any work on my car.
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"The glass isnt half empty or half full...
its twice as tall as it needs to be"
~How an engineer views life
I finally spoke with the dealership. They said the total price was 1100.00 plus, plus tax. I dont remember the exact amount. Does anyone know where I could get a copper replacement for my negative battery terminal? I hate to go through all this. I also have some electronics (trailer brake contoller) that are hard wired into the truck and I dont want to have to rewire them, also I am not sure if autozone is going to pay for a rental car because the dealership said it probably would not be completed in one day. Any other ideas?? The dealership said it is the entire wiring harness for my truck. Thanks for your help!
go to a car stereo shop and get a battery terminal if you can't get autozone to replace yours.
already answered that last question.
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint
in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's
to come:
JBL MS-8 + center channel speaker + components for the rear + sirius adapter for stock HU
If you don't feel comfortable fixing it yourself with just a new end or a splice in the cable, go to a good garage and see what they would charge. I know a guy that had the same problem and he had it fixed a year ago for $80. There is no need to get the entire harness changed out. Good luck.
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03 Stratosphere Mica Stepside, 4.7 L, Supercharger, TRD Package, TRD Exhaust,
Scion Head Unit 08600-21802,
Custom leather heated seats 2 tone with TRD LOGO, Moonroof, ARE LID, ZR3 Laser Shifter, Nav system, Denso IK22 .4mm Iridium Plugs, Scan Gauge 2,
Rhino Liner
I finally spoke with the dealership. They said the total price was 1100.00 plus, plus tax. I dont remember the exact amount. Does anyone know where I could get a copper replacement for my negative battery terminal? I hate to go through all this. I also have some electronics (trailer brake contoller) that are hard wired into the truck and I dont want to have to rewire them, also I am not sure if autozone is going to pay for a rental car because the dealership said it probably would not be completed in one day. Any other ideas?? The dealership said it is the entire wiring harness for my truck. Thanks for your help!
Here you go save $1096.01 and alot of head aches, just get a replacement end for it something like thisNAPAONLINE® , doesn't have to be copper, this will work just as well. Good luck getting autozone to pay for anything more than this anyway. Like I said something like this this one is for temp use, but would probly serve you well for a long time. There are other similare types there too, that are more permanent, and attack mechanically like this but more secure.
I got a replacement terminal, a gold plated tsunami. I installed it with dielectric grease and made sure all the connections were tight. The truck is still idling very low and sometimes stalling out. The service dept said this could be due to having the truck disconnected from the battery and would return to normal after the truck learns the throttle point. It stalled 2 times on my way home from the station tonight. Is what they said true? If not what else could make the truck idle soo low then stall out. The truck ran fine untill the battery was changed. Thanks!
Either the wrong sized battery, a bad battery, or even a failing alternator could cause the low voltage problems. Other things could be if you have some sort of other problem going on that is draining the battery power, like an improperly installed accessory that's been added.
Have someone confirm the battery size is correct, and also test the alternator output, at least that's where I"d probably start. That and making sure that your power and ground wires on the battery and to the alternator are in good shape and making a good solid connection.
Did they check your battery to make sure it was bad and not just drained from a failing alternator? Maybe your alternator is not charging correctly...
Im not a expert or anything, but I would try turning everything on (example-lights, airconditioning, stereo max volume, turning your steering weel all the way to one side, etc..) and see if it stalls and check the voltage at the battery with a DMM and make sure it's not dropping significantly.
tunrda battery question
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