Just a quick and simple wiring question. I'm expecting a A.R.E. Camper Shell delivery about mid to late April for my 2001 Access Cab Tundra. The dealers here in Missouri have typically wired the camper shell 12 volt light to the tailights for some obscure law (I think it's a matter of convenience!). In my previous truck (Chevy), I direct wired to a hot terminal under the hood and installed a 5 amp fuse inline with 12 ga. wire. I'm asking the dealer to leave the wire under the camper shell disconnected so I can have the camper shell light without turning the parking lights on.
1) Is there a hot terminal I could wire to under the hood like I did in my Chevy?
2) If question one is met, is 12 ga. wire suffiicient to run from under the hood all the way back to the rear of the truck?
3) Any alternate wiring that's more simple than what I'm suggesting?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Kev.
There's a How-to in the ELectronics FAQ on how to wire it up to the Cargo Light Circuit. If that's not what you had in mind, we can find something else for you. Just let us know.
Glen,
I read the FAQ from your Lighting section. I would prefer to wire the 12 volt camper shell light (at the back of the shell by the tail gate) differently than as described in the FAQ. Simply, if I could find a hot wire towards the back of the truck, I could turn on and turn off the camper light without going back and forth to the interior of the truck (using the cargo light switch). Any ideas?
I could always run one from the battery and clip and armor the wiring as it travels along the trucks underside. Using 18 ga. wire w/ a inline 5amp fuse was how I did it before, but at the time I was better at breaking down small block chevys than electrical wiring!!! Is 18 ga. heavy enough?
I have a shell on my Tundra and when they installed it they ran a 14 gauge wire right off the battery with a fuse (10 amp) back to my over the door light.
I have since added a fuse block along side the battery (for my driving lights, trailer wiring, two in the bed power recepticles, and the shell light).
I ran the wires along the frame rail and tied them up with tie wraps. I soldered and "shrink wrapped" the connections to ensure I had a good solid connection.
Finally, I also added a three prong connector in line, for the third brake light and shell interior light, just in case I ever want to remove the shell.
Glen,
I have the factory Class III hitch w/ flat four pole connector, so the light feed to the license plate would work. I burned a copy of your "How to" Towing Guide that illustrates the trailer wiring (Truck and Trailer). Glen, aren't all these leads dead (unless your turn signal, step on the brakes or turn your lights on)? Or are you refering to another wire (license plate lights)?
T,
I did this with that Chevy but your using a heavier wire and larger fuse. Makes sense with the length of wire. This may be my second option. Let me see what Glen is pointing me to.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate your advise, electricals aren't my strong point!
KDTundra,
A little disclaimer. I DO NOT recommend tappinf into existing circuits, I believe it is safer to run your own properly fused power wires and when neede use relays to control powered circuits from existing circuits. T'sToy is the best approach. A separate fused line run down the driver's side frame rail, then up up behind the left taillight to a little hole that is just under the rail cap and into the bed and connected to your camper light circuit.
As I said in my earlier post pin5 on the T6 connector (8 pin gray connector behind bumber under the bed) should have 12v constant(white/black). If you go this route, test to verify the wire.
~Glenn
Glen,
I'll test and verify the live wire in the harness by the bumper. If I feel a little goosey with the harness route, I'll run a separate wire and fuse under the frame from the battery and heed your disclaimer. Thanks for your advice and help.
Kev.
Camper Shell Light
Camper Shell Light wiring
Linear Mode
