I did the fog light mod on my 2003 tundra this AM. Fairly easy all things considered.
I didn't like the idea of bending the relay spade connectors so I dismantled the relay box (per the 2002 mod posted here) and spliced the green/whte from the fog light to the grey from the accessory outlet relay. Works great. You do have to be careful taking apart the relay box as I broke a few of the locking tabs. This made it cleaner than having wires running among the relays and no questions at the dealer.
I decided to complete the cargo light mod at the same time. I couldn't find any direct reference to the actual mod in the archives, so I reviewed the system on my own. I've disconnected the green/orange wire from the front of the intergration relay. I found out you do not have to remove the relay, after I did. In the future I'll be adding cargo lights inside the bed of the truck to work with the box cover. I'll have them switched from the cargo light. This will allow me to light the box with the keyless entry. Backup lighting is on the way.
I did the fog light mod on my 2003 tundra this AM. Fairly easy all things considered.
I didn't like the idea of bending the relay spade connectors so I dismantled the relay box (per the 2002 mod posted here) and spliced the green/whte from the fog light to the grey from the accessory outlet relay. Works great. You do have to be careful taking apart the relay box as I broke a few of the locking tabs. This made it cleaner than having wires running among the relays and no questions at the dealer.
I decided to complete the cargo light mod at the same time. I couldn't find any direct reference to the actual mod in the archives, so I reviewed the system on my own. I've disconnected the green/orange wire from the front of the intergration relay. I found out you do not have to remove the relay, after I did. In the future I'll be adding cargo lights inside the bed of the truck to work with the box cover. I'll have them switched from the cargo light. This will allow me to light the box with the keyless entry. Backup lighting is on the way.
If only the truck had heated seats...Jason
I did a search for dismantling the relay box an could not find one. Do you know under which thread it is listed. I to don't really want to bend the relay leg. Thanks Don
I did a search for dismantling the relay box an could not find one. Do you know under which thread it is listed. I to don't really want to bend the relay leg. Thanks Don
Just one more question before I start the foglight mod. Since I will be taking the relay box apart and wiring it as outlined in this thread will there be any concerns since I have done the aux power outlet mod to keep them hot all the time. Thanks
Just one more question before I start the foglight mod. Since I will be taking the relay box apart and wiring it as outlined in this thread will there be any concerns since I have done the aux power outlet mod to keep them hot all the time. Thanks
The original scope which included bending one of the legs of the relay and wiring it to the switched ignition source would not be affected by the condition of the power outlets.
If the modification to the power outlets was completed on the swithing side of the circuit, to activate the relay at all times, then you'll have to find a switched source other than the grey wire I had identified in this thread.
If, on the other hand, the constant power source for the outlets is provided downstream of the relay or without modification of the switching circuit to the relay, the grey wire will work fine.
I hope I haven't confused this issue. I don't expect there will be any effect if you haven't had the relay box open before, as the source for the power outlet switch is contained within the relay box.
The original scope which included bending one of the legs of the relay and wiring it to the switched ignition source would not be affected by the condition of the power outlets.
If the modification to the power outlets was completed on the swithing side of the circuit, to activate the relay at all times, then you'll have to find a switched source other than the grey wire I had identified in this thread.
If, on the other hand, the constant power source for the outlets is provided downstream of the relay or without modification of the switching circuit to the relay, the grey wire will work fine.
I hope I haven't confused this issue. I don't expect there will be any effect if you haven't had the relay box open before, as the source for the power outlet switch is contained within the relay box.
Good Luck. Let the force be your guide.
I did the mod today and the mod that was done on the power outlets caused the foglights to stay on all the time, if the switch on the stalk is turned on. After some thought since the relay for the power outlets was removed and the input and output power wires were connected with a short jumper, to make the power outlet's hot all the time, but the switched with ignition wire for the coil of the relay on the power oulets was not used. With a small screwdriver I released the retainer that holds the coil wire in the relay sockets for the power outlets and the fog lights. I taped the one that came out of the foglights up and left it not connected. I then took the one that was in the power outlet and installed it in the foglight relay coil slot. So now the fog lights are switched with the ignition. This way it will be easy to return it to original if needed.
Just FYI, when doing the cargo light mod on a 2003 Tundra with DRL the connector is different and runs horizontally. Still want the green w/ orange stripe wire (located 2nd from RHS on bottom row) [ref: 2003 Tundra relay locations wiring diagram]
Just FYI, when doing the cargo light mod on a 2003 Tundra with DRL the connector is different and runs horizontally. Still want the green w/ orange stripe wire (located 2nd from RHS on bottom row) [ref: 2003 Tundra relay locations wiring diagram]
The only green w/orange wire below my fuses is in a connector that runs vertically??? The connector is green, fits in the same white/off white box that my fuses are in and it is in a different position in the connector than you described. I am thinking, how many green w/ orange wires can there be on this truck - why not just cut the thing. "Sparks and magic" is not really my thing. What are you thoughts?
The only green w/orange wire below my fuses is in a connector that runs vertically??? The connector is green, fits in the same white/off white box that my fuses are in and it is in a different position in the connector than you described. I am thinking, how many green w/ orange wires can there be on this truck - why not just cut the thing. "Sparks and magic" is not really my thing. What are you thoughts?
Thanks
j
You may have to remove the lower dash to see the wires. I recall having to remove the wire loom to get at the wire. The connector runs horizontally along the bottom half of the integration relay and the wire is on the right. There was only one green with orange wire in the connection. The connector is not green.
If this isn't clear, have a look at the integration diagrams in the club electrical drawings. It makes it clearer.
You may have to remove the lower dash to see the wires. I recall having to remove the wire loom to get at the wire. The connector runs horizontally along the bottom half of the integration relay and the wire is on the right. There was only one green with orange wire in the connection. The connector is not green.
If this isn't clear, have a look at the integration diagrams in the club electrical drawings. It makes it clearer.
Jason
Thanks Jason.
Nothing to it.
Had to look at the ewd's to be sure that there were no other g w/o tracers.
I have an '03 Tundra and it is totally different from what you and the other's described. Guess it depends on the plant?? I hit 52mph and the cargo light still came one, but I'll keep you posted incase my truck catches fire! Anybody else that wants to do this mod and finds that the above processes don't quite hit the spot - let me know and I'll tell you how I had to do it on mine.