Blown Headlights because of auto starter?

[Kenai_Tundra]

Hello,

This is my first post on the forums, so hopefully I provide the necessary information. I have a 2002 Toyota Tundra Extra cab. I decided to be brave and hook up an auto start. The auto start works, except for one small issue. When I press the brake pedal, the unit does not shut off, like it is supposed to. I spoke to an installer and they stated I hooked the unit to the "hot always" brake wire. I hooked the brake wire to the green/white (+) brake wire at the brake pedal. This appears to be the wrong one.
I know your reading this and saying, what does this have to do about headlights?! Well I have been using the auto start all week, and manually stopping it before I drive away by pushing the auto-start key-fob. I forgot to do this yesterday and drove home, and now my headlights don't work .... well they kind of don't work.
First off the daytaime running light function. When I turn the headlight knob on the lever, they never intensify, as they used to do when initialized. Also when I move the lever forward into the brights position, the brights do not engage, but when I do the "flash" on the brights they work fine. So with the daytime running lights working, and the brights working when forced, that tells me the headlight bulbs themselves seem ok. Another oddity is that the fog lamps do not work, but reading through the forums it seems the Tundra's fog lamps are wired on the same circuit as the headlights. So, I guess I have two questions: What is the correct wire to hook at the brake pedal that is negative and goes positive when the brake is depressed? And second, did I blow a fuse? a relay? or something else that is now not letting me turn on my headlights and fog lamps?

Thank you for any help you can provide on this subject.

p.s. the Auto start was a CrimeStopper 1804FM, and it still works fine.

[Kenai_Tundra]

Some further information about the headlight issue:

All fuses in the engine compartment are all good, as I would think the bulbs would not light at all. I do have power to the switch as the dash and running lights on the vehicle do turn on. The light on the dash display for the fog lamp works. I assume there is an inline fuse or fusible link from the steering column headlight lever to somwhere that is blown? Not sure where to look next.

I have been driving with the daytime running lights, and it is dark her in Alaska in the winter time.

[monolithic]

Originally Posted by Kenai_Tundra

When I press the brake pedal, the unit does not shut off, like it is supposed to.

Caveat - not familiar at all with this autostart

Comment - The brake input is used to kill the engine when a key is not inserted (to prevent someone from just driving off with your vehicle). It also works as a safety input. I'm not quite sure I follow your logic in "manually stopping it before driving away." What is it that you think is still going on when you manually stop it? When you press the start button, the unit powers the ignition and stops cranking when it senses that the engine is running. The other inputs are there for safety/theft reasons to kill the engine when a key is not inserted. The autostart is not really "on" after the engine starts and the anti-theft is turned off after key insertion (if wired correctly).

[Kenai_Tundra]

Thanks for the response monolithic.

This is what is happening: When the autostart is on (i.e. it has remotely started the vehicle), I can put the key in, drive away, remove the key, and the vehicle continues to run. It is not until I press the key-fob button to turn the unit off, that the unit actually stops running. This is the same button that initiates the starting procedure. As you can tell, I am not very familiar with autostarts, but I enjoy working with my hands, so I decided to take on the project.

I understand, now after reading these forums, that the brake pedal switch is a safety device to stop someone from driving away. Apparently I have no clue how the auto start works, does putting the key in supposed to disable the autostart as well, but keep the vehicle running? I do know the brake pedal should kill the engine when depressed, so now I must find the correct wire.

My dilemna now is the headlights.

Sorry for the vagueness of my last posts, as I have just a basic knowledge of automotive electronics. I know I probably should not have take on this project, but living in rural Alaska does not allow a lot of options for automotive electronic installers other than "do it yourself"

[monolithic]

The issue isn't the brake wire. Take a look at this diagram (it's for a different unit) and check your wiring. The key in the ignition should override (turn off) the autostart feature. I'm sure there are wiring color differences between your year truck and 2004's as well. The dilemma isn't so much the headlights as the fact that the unit is not recognizing the key in the ignition and turned on and is overriding the headlights to allow it to turn the parking lamps on. I'm guessing one of the two ignition wires as shown below is not correctly hooked up and thus is not switching on and off like it should.

[Kenai_Tundra]

That is very similar to my unit's wiring. I was utilizing the wiring info posted by a member here: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...2002tundra.htm

Your information tells me the unit is functional, but not completly installed correct, as the ignition does not turn off the unit. Thanks again for the info.
There was one set of instructions in the manual that I could not find any information on the Ignition2 wiring, this is a quote from the manual:

This is an optional multi-function output wire the can be configured as a Second IGN, ACC or STARTER output. Some
vehicles require more than just one IGN, ACC, or STARTER wire in order to start and run successfully. If this is the case
for your particular vehicle, then use the jumper pin located under the access panel on the top of the CoolStart control
module to configure this wire to suit your needs. The DEFAULT setting is IGNITION.

I do have the second ignition wired into the autostart, but I left my jumper in the default position. Does the 2002 Toyota Tundra require a second ignition?

Thanks again for the help

[monolithic]

Originally Posted by Kenai_Tundra

I do have the second ignition wired into the autostart, but I left my jumper in the default position.

That sounds correct. However, I would double check everything to see if it is as it should be (right wires, wired to correct inputs/outputs). I would then make sure the unit is actually in "default"/ignition mode (is the jumper in place or maybe moved?). I might then assume that there is an issue with the unit itself and try to test it.

[Kenai_Tundra]

After viewing your diagram and my manual I can see one thing I did not do. I wired the anti-grind relay, but I did not make the "cut". Everything else I have wired and tested appears to be ok. It still makes me wonder what "blew" to make the headlights not function properly, as they were working. Do you know of any fusible link, or inline fuse that would allow power not to flow from the headlight lever to the headlights, yet still allow power to the other lights, and dash lights? I have verified that the unit is in default position, I will make the "cut" and move to IGN2 and let you know the results. It appears I have two distinct (maybe three) problems.

Thanks again for the assistance

[monolithic]

Originally Posted by Kenai_Tundra

After viewing your diagram and my manual I can see one thing I did not do. I wired the anti-grind relay, but I did not make the "cut".

Shorting out the anti-grind relay only allows you to grind the starter while it's running (it negates the anti-grind relay). It shouldn't affect the autostart's ability to know when the key is turned on (however, sometimes electronics designers do strange things...). If the wiring is correct, I'm starting to think there is an issue with the autostart itself. It could be that some auxiliary wire inputs are not present and so it's not working correctly (those wires not shown on the diagram I supplied - brakes, doors, etc.).

I let my subscription expire so I don't have access to 2002 wiring diagrams. If you do subscribe, they are available to you. Might help track down relay/fuse issues.

For 2004, there is a headlight relay, foglight relay, etc. that is controlled by the stalk switch wiring. These are located in the engine compartment on the driver's side in a black box with a removable lid and include fuses too. Your autostart should only be wired into the parking lights (not sure how its affecting the headlights). Any way you can disconnect the autostart and see if the lights work again?