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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Belts squealing at Start Up", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I found a TSB on how to eliminate this problem of the squealing belts on start up in my '03 Tundra. The parts are almost $200 and the labor is set at 3.5 hours. My question is have any of you found a fix for this without going with the Toyota fix? My service guy says since my truck is over 30,000 miles, his hands are tied and he can't fix it for free.
well do you thing if I replaced mine I need to sea if I need to check on how to stop the milldue? What did you do to fix the milldue? I dont wont it to happy again!
Did you every try something like Clorox to eratidate the milldue? HOw did you know it was milldue? ; )
Replace the belt with a Goodyear Gatorback belt and your noise is gone. I've done that with both of my Tundra's and they are both still fine. One has been on four years. It is common for the factory belt to start squealing because the rubber dries out and gets hard.
Larry
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 ATX2 tires, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
Well when I took it in to the dealer and have the tech look at it he said it was milldue
and that changeing the belts should stop it and so I did and rode for over a 100,000
miles and it never came back and plus it was totaled out by lady running a red light
in 2005 and even after that the truck cracked right back up. Any way I never though
about it comeing back because I know when your truck warm up and get moveing it
stop and don't hear it to the next morning when you first crank up and I know how
that noise can make you kind of un happy in the morning just wakeing up for work. try a
little rev and see if that do if any good but the best thing is to replace the belts and like
the guy said the factory built drys up and gets hard and think it start to get milldue on the belt.
I guess my question to that tech would be how can mildew grow on a ribbed belt that runs through grooved pulleys and is touched on both sides by either a drive pulley or an idler/tensioning pulley. Although like I said changing to a new belt fixes it.
Larry
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 ATX2 tires, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
Well I guess doing the winter early in the morning and it sits over night
and I think it gets on there then I m just going by what the tech said when
I had the truck Like I said it was totaled out in 2005.
Well I would think it would be kind of hard to change all that stuff espically the brake
fluid you have to bleed the brakes and change all the belts you have to remove the
pulley I would think the oil change might be easy to do not sure don't know about the
antifreeze with all that stuff you might as well get a tune up and have the dealer do
all that stuff because with most of that stuff you have to have some know how
that way every thing go back wright like the belts they have to line up at a certain point
that way the truck don't missfire causeing it to run bad and no want to start.
How hard is it to change the belt? Can someone that changes his own oil, plugs, antifreeze, brake fluid, brakes, etc, do this?
........
When changing the serpentine belt, there are two things to keep in mind. Firstly you must keep track of the routing of the belt so you install the replacement properly. Usually this is just a matter of having a good look at the old belt routing before you remove it, or do a quick sketch. Also in most cases there is a sticker under the hood showing the routing.
The second thing to keep in mind is handling the belt tensioner. There is a small spring loaded pulley that pushes into the belt to keep the belt tight while it spins. You must release the tension this pulley applies to the belt to allow the belt to be removed. Some care must be taken because there is a fair amount of force in the pulley spring. Usually the tension is removed by putting a socket wrench on a bolt in the center of the pulley and then lever the whole pulley over to move the pulley off the belt. Be careful with this because you cannot let go of the pulley while removing the belt or the pulley will snap back into the belt with force.
It is helpful to have two people do this job if you are unfamiliar with it. One person pulls back and holds the pulley while another person replaces the belt.
Check the bearings on the pulleys. They may be very dry at this time as was in my case. I am still running the original belt at over 56,000 miles too. Mechanic just greased the pulley bearings and I was good to go.
Changed my original belt at 60k. Yes it squeeked a little at startup, but the belt was still in fine shape. Toyota replaced the original part number with a revised part so hopefully it will perform a little better.
The average doityourselfer can do this job, but it takes patience. All of the slack must be taken up so that the belt has room to slide over the tensioner. After fighting with it for 10 minutes or so from the top, I tried it from the bottom and found it easier. My radiator hose was off at the time. The trick is getting the belt tight and holding it while pulling down the tensioner and slipping the belt over it.
Belts squealing at Start Up
Re: Belts squealing at Start Up
