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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Idle Adjustment", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
My idle seems a bit low usually just below the bottom first thin mark. It idles rough at this point. If I bring it to right between the two lowest thin marks, it idles smooth as glass. Question?? How do you adjust the idle on this engine? I see the cable adjuster but I really do not want to tighten the cable and have no slack in it. It is tuned with new plugs, air filter, & cleaned the throttle butterfly. Just ordered my Haynes Manual maybe that will tell me. I have the Electrical Toyota manual & really cannot use it to much without investing in the tools. 32,00mi on great truck & been around engines longer than most been alive, and can't set the idle!! DUH!!!!!!
I'm pretty sure it is NOT adjustable. It sounds like you may need to clean the throttle body. Its easy to do. That should increase your idle if it is dirty at all. Have you changed plugs yet?
__________________ SATundra
2001 Limited, V8, 2wd, TRD, Metallic Silver Sky MODS:
TIRES: Michelin LTX M/S LT265/75/R16 load C rated
SUSPENSION: front - red/blu 4x4 HD Bilsteins shocks & HD TRD 4x4 coils providing 1.75" lift, rear - TRD add-a-leafs, Hellwig swaybar, yell/blu 4x4 Bilsteins INTERIOR: CB-Ham/Scanner/150W linear amp in custom console, 10 disc CD player, Donnelly comp/temp mirror, Toyota All Weather floormats, tinted windows, radar detector, backseat angle mod, EXTERIOR: Grizzly SS brushguard, Better Built alum toolbox w/lights, Weatherflector Ventvisors, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, SteelHorse Bull Rings, Mobil 1 oils, 2 TS stickers, 2 TS license frames, 2 www.TundraSolutions.com stickers, ELECTRICAL: 55W undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, 55W underhood lights, DEI alarm, 12V Acc plug/engine compartment, 400watt power inverter, foglight/cargolight/acc plug/maplight mod
Had the same condition you described. A dose of injector cleaner solved the problem.
Normal idle speed for both the V6 and the V8 engines is 650 to 750 rpm and is controlled by the main computer. There is no external adjustment. At normal operating temperature with the auto transmission in Neutral, my tach needle is centered between the 2 graduation marks between 0 and 1 (1,000 rpm) at idle speed. These marks appear to represent 600 and 800 rpm.
I have a 2000 Tundra, purchased in October of 1999. Yesterday morning I get in and it wont start. Starter is grinding away, but no engine sound at all. All lights work fine and it doesn’t “sound” like it’s a dead/dying battery. But I notice that my clock and radio are reset. So I try and jump it. Nothing, same sound. My neighbor says it’s my starter and to whack it with a hammer.
Well, after messing around for a half hour I take my other car to work. This afternoon I have a tow truck come and pick it up to take it to the dealer. The tow truck driver listens to the sound and says my battery is dying, it’s not the starter. I told him we tried to jump it, but nothing happened. He said we needed something pretty strong to get a Tundra started, so he hooked up his cables to his truck and she fired right up.
So I am jazzed. I don’t need to buy a new starter, but only a new battery. Since it is the original battery, and I have only 96,500 miles on my truck I figured it’s about time.
So I blast down and pick up a new battery and install it. Fire up the truck no problem………..but one. Won’t idle. I mean will not even try to idle. I sat there and let her warm up, even drove around the block a few times and every time I took my foot off the gas, it died. Even going 30-40 miles an hour it would konk out. Yes, I have a K&N intake, and yeas when I installed it 50,000 miles ago it took the computer some time to adjust, so I was expecting that after installing the new battery. But this is way different.
The truck won’t even turn over unless I have my foot pumping the accelerator. That is not normal.
Then I figure, maybe I need to take her out a drive a little. So I drive down the freeway and back for about 20 miles or so. Stalled every time I took my foot off the gas. I had to shift in to neutral, brake with my left foot and hover on the gas to keep from stalling. So I ask you, what could possible be wrong now? I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning, but it’s going to be an interesting ride over there……
Don't wack the starter - works on old $100 conventional units, not the $800 PMG type starter on the V8. The starter is under the intake manifold in the motor's "V-well" anyways - so hammer wacks are out. Try putting the battery on a charger overnight - the battery, although new could be in need of a charge.
And you won't like this but..... NEVER, EVER jumpstart your vehicle or jumpstart another with yours!!! Any car or truck with any computer should never be jumpstarted or used to jumpstart anyone elses. The process of jumpstarting your truck could have fried the computer!!!
Originally posted by noonch <snip> Fire up the truck no problem………..but one. Won’t idle. I mean will not even try to idle. I sat there and let her warm up, even drove around the block a few times and every time I took my foot off the gas, it died. Even going 30-40 miles an hour it would konk out. Yes, I have a K&N intake, and yeas when I installed it 50,000 miles ago it took the computer some time to adjust, so I was expecting that after installing the new battery. But this is way different.
The truck won’t even turn over unless I have my foot pumping the accelerator. That is not normal.
Then I figure, maybe I need to take her out a drive a little. So I drive down the freeway and back for about 20 miles or so. Stalled every time I took my foot off the gas. I had to shift in to neutral, brake with my left foot and hover on the gas to keep from stalling. So I ask you, what could possible be wrong now? I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning, but it’s going to be an interesting ride over there……
Could be throttle body related,the electrical parts of it.
When you rev it in park or neutral does it only go up to say 3000 RPM at most,no matter how much you floor it? Is the check engine light on?
That's the worst case scenario though,I'd remove the intake tube and take a look inside first,the throttle plate could be all gunked up.
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Originally posted by Stooge And you won't like this but..... NEVER, EVER jumpstart your vehicle or jumpstart another with yours!!! Any car or truck with any computer should never be jumpstarted or used to jumpstart anyone elses. The process of jumpstarting your truck could have fried the computer!!!
I haven't fried an ECU yet. If someone crosses the jumper cable connections on a Toyota or Lexus that won't even fry the ECU,there are several fuses that'll pop before that happens. The only situation where I could see an ECU burning out is if someone connects straight voltage to a a sensor input or connecting the jumper leads onto the ECU itself.
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Originally posted by noonch Same problem, only more severe.
I have a 2000 Tundra, purchased in October of 1999. Yesterday morning I get in and it wont start. Starter is grinding away, but no engine sound at all. All lights work fine and it doesn’t “sound” like it’s a dead/dying battery. But I notice that my clock and radio are reset.
...
So I am jazzed. I don’t need to buy a new starter, but only a new battery. Since it is the original battery, and I have only 96,500 miles on my truck I figured it’s about time.
...
So I blast down and pick up a new battery and install it. Fire up the truck no problem………..but one. Won’t idle. I mean will not even try to idle. I sat there and let her warm up, even drove around the block a few times and every time I took my foot off the gas, it died. Even going 30-40 miles an hour it would konk out. Yes, I have a K&N intake, and yeas when I installed it 50,000 miles ago it took the computer some time to adjust, so I was expecting that after installing the new battery. But this is way different.
The truck won’t even turn over unless I have my foot pumping the accelerator. That is not normal. ...
Check the "ETCS" fuse (15A) in the underhood fuse box. That controls the throttle blade movement (Electronic Throttle Control System), except the "limp-home" feature when you floor the gas pedal. If it's blown, the truck won't idle well and the gas pedal will operate "strangely."
The stock battery sucks and a replacement was likely called for.
Tundra's don't require any more "juice" than any other V8 engine to start, so the tow driver was full of BS. If the battery is really shot, sometimes jumpstarting will fail or it will take a few minutes with the jumper cables hooked up before the dead battery vehicle will start. This is not unusual.
Finally, jumpstarting vehicles IF YOU FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE DESCRIBED IN THE OWNERS MANUAL should not pose ANY risk of damage to either vehicle. If you are the paranoid type, it doesn't hurt to turn ON the headlights of the dead vehicle BEFORE making the jumper connection, then turn them OFF before attempting to start it. The theory is this will provide an extra level of protection from spikes to the electrical system, and it certainly won't hurt. I have received 2 jumpstarts TO my Tundra (before replacing the stock battery) and jumpstarted 3 vehicles FROM my Tundra (after putting in the Optima) and never had so much as a blown fuse. Same for previously owned vehicles, where I'd average giving out 4 jumpstarts every Winter back in St. Louis.
Originally posted by Herb Normal idle speed for both the V6 and the V8 engines is 650 to 750 rpm and is controlled by the main computer. There is no external adjustment. At normal operating temperature with the auto transmission in Neutral, my tach needle is centered between the 2 graduation marks between 0 and 1 (1,000 rpm) at idle speed. These marks appear to represent 600 and 800 rpm.
The 2001-up models seem to idle around 650-750, but the 2000's idle much lower between 450-550 in gear w/ AC off. Your idle sounds normal for a 2000. And yes, the idle smoothes out when you bring the RPMs up slightly. My guess is Toyota raised it a little on the newer trucks for that reason. Unfortunately the idle is set in the computer and non-adjustable.
One thing that seems to help is a fresh set of spark plugs with the gaps checked. As has been mentioned before, the stock plugs don't seem to last long and they were not consistently gapped at the factory. The new plugs won't come pre-gapped, contrary to popular opinion (because the same plugs may be used in different motors that call for different gaps).
I went with the NGK "V" power plugs, a whopping $1.37/ea., and gapped them to 0.031 as per the factory recommendation. All but 2 of the new plugs came with a wider gap than that.
Originally posted by EdJadeSR5Tundra Could be throttle body related,the electrical parts of it.
When you rev it in park or neutral does it only go up to say 3000 RPM at most,no matter how much you floor it? Is the check engine light on?
That's the worst case scenario though,I'd remove the intake tube and take a look inside first,the throttle plate could be all gunked up.
Yes, even when I took it on the freeway it never would go over 3000 !!!
So......fought it into the dealer this morning. After a couple hours with it they called and said......throttle body and intake were too gunked up. Basically, they said that the computer "learns" to adjust for the K&N filter. Well, after a few thousand miles of driving, the intake and throttle body build up with deposits, which is normal. But this raises the learning curve of the computer too not only have to adjust for the K&N, but the added deposits. It also didn’t help that when the tow truck driver started the truck, he sat in it and revved the engine repeatedly over 4000 rpm. Sucking more air and K&N oil into the system. The entire inside of the intake, MAF sensor, and throttle body were covered in oil. And the last time I cleaned and re-oiled the unit was MONTHS ago.
So, $4.95 worth of cleaner and a few hours work on my part, the K&N is out of there and the stock unit is back. Runs like a dream. The MAF is pretty bad off, and the tech said it would be about $300 to replace.
Long story short, I am down the price of a battery, a jump-start from a tow truck, and the $90 bucks the dealer charged me to diagnose the problem. But they were going to charge me 4 hours labor to clean the system for me. I don’t blame the K&N for this, because it was a series of things that lead up to this, but all the guys at my dealer were bashing it, and I just don’t think the minimal HP gains are worth it.
Originally posted by arkie6 What exactly do you mean by "pretty bad off"?
Did you remove it from the top of the air filter housing? Did you inspect it? Is it dirty? Did you clean it?
Yes, all of the above. The dealer was telling me that continual build up can "short" the electronics and cause malfunction. So for what it's worth, I cleaned it and put it back in. Everything seems to be running fine.
The other thing that was weird was durring all these issues, the check engine light did not come on once.......
Originally posted by Stooge Clean the throttle body. Your idle speed will automatically adjust and increase to normal, smooth levels.
He said he did that, but he called it the throttle butterfly. If this is not all that is involved with cleaning the throttle body, then I have been doing it wrong as well. Can someone clarify this? I pul the intake tube off and clean as much as I can (the butterfly and the area in front of it). Is it correct to say that I cleaned the throttle body or is there more to it?
Idle Adjustment
