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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "DIY: ATF Flush, With Pics.", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Much of the old sealant flakes off easily w/ a fingernail. Just use common sense, use anything that won't scratch metal. And be sure to clean the pan thoroughly.
I finally did this today.. Man it took forever to get the sealant off!! I didn't get all of it off, most of it, pretty much all the important big pieces that would harm the new sealant. I used a plastic fork, and a plastic spoon, and used some brake cleaner to get some of it off. OTher than that, it went really well. The engine seems to be shifting smoothly. There wasn't really any flakes of metal on the magnets, which surprised me a lot. I was very happy about that.. all in all, a good write up.. Maybe mention if you didn't, that the dipstick tube bolt is on the engine block, I wasn't confused, but had to think about whether it was in the tranny pan, or where it was. That is if you are going to drop the entire tube.. Also, there were 3 stupid lines that made it hard to get at some bolts on the side that faced the front of the truck.... Thanks for the write up my friend!
Dang the sealant was expensive!! It didn't take much at all, and It seems like I could do about 20 more cars with that tube.. I am hoping that I used enough I suppose!! 21$ for that tube!! and not to mention 2.50 for the crush washer! WOW.
I keep editing because I keep remembering things!! Also, I am hoping now that I didn't get any sealant in the dipstick tube that got lodged up there, there was little pieces of the sealant everywhere! It did take abotu an hour to get it all off, and I did the best I could on actually tranny part.
Erik
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2002 Toyota Tundra SR5 Model l Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust With 3.5" Tips Out The Sides l 16" Ultra Wheels l Toyo A/T Tires l 12" Audiobahn 122T l Audiobahn A2601Q Amp l Eclipse 3434 Headunit l Sylvania Silverstar Headlights l K&N FIPK Gen II Intake (Removed) l BedRug Bed Liner l Debadged 7/22/2005 l
Crap again, when backing out, it was fine, then dried to put into Drive, and it wouldn't go... Had to hit the gas for it to finally clunk into gear.. Now I am lost.. any ideas anyone.. anyone?
Thanks,
Erik
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2002 Toyota Tundra SR5 Model l Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust With 3.5" Tips Out The Sides l 16" Ultra Wheels l Toyo A/T Tires l 12" Audiobahn 122T l Audiobahn A2601Q Amp l Eclipse 3434 Headunit l Sylvania Silverstar Headlights l K&N FIPK Gen II Intake (Removed) l BedRug Bed Liner l Debadged 7/22/2005 l
Crap again, when backing out, it was fine, then dried to put into Drive, and it wouldn't go... Had to hit the gas for it to finally clunk into gear.. Now I am lost.. any ideas anyone.. anyone?
Thanks,
Erik
Did this happen only once, or is this now a regular problem. Are you sure you put as much ATF you got out? If you continue to have problems, I suggest you post a new thread in the Tundra thread, you might get more feedback there.
Hope this was just one time thing. Let me know what happens.
First off, I want to thank everyone that has posted on this subject. I found this a straight forward job that took some time to do right. I have a 2002 Sequoia 4 WD with 126,000 miles. The previous owners never change the fluid from what I know. The tranny was working fine, but I wanted to keep it that way. I used mobil one with a friction modifier and the only change I noticed was that 2 wheel to 4 wheel and back again engaged immediatly were as before it took some time.
After draining off the fluid, I removed the pan. After 6 years it took a lot smacking with the hammer and then used a plastic scraper to separate the pan. Get ready for more fluid as you lower the pan. I left the dip stick tube attached and then began wiggling it back and forth and pulling to separate the two halves. The bottom of the pan had a good layer of black film and the magnets a few shaving, but not much. In the write up you show 3 magnets, but mine had 4. This one goes in the empty slot in the picture. Make sure to keep the drain pan under the tranny while cleaning up the pan and filter. Got to love that orange crap they use on the pan. I asked the parts guy if the gasket maker (now at $25) was any different and he said no. I just used a black stuff from Checker I already had around. No problems so far.
Before installing the pan, I did remove the top half of the dip stick tube, so that I wouldn't be trying to fit tubes while getting the pan mated up. Once everything was back together it took a while to get the fluid down the tube. It was real cold here last week. I over filled by a quart and flushed out 4 quarts and at the end the fluid started to look lighter red. Took out about another quart and filled it up.
Thanks again for all the info. and I hope this helps someone else.
First of all, thank you 2XOverhead for your hard work in putting this tutorial together! OUTSTANDING!
I just finished doing it on my 2000 Tundra SR5....took me about 4 hours or so....I printed out your post and followed each step to the T.
What about the filter? Does Toyota recommend ever changing it? I cleaned mine really well, but I can't see the inside of it to know what kind of condition it is in? Answer: I didn't change the filter - looks like it's not necessary!
I spent $100.53
ATF Fluid [17 Qts. @ $3.99 each] $67.83
New Plug for Tranny Pan $3.64
New Crush Washer for Tranny Pan Plug $2.84
Liquid Gasket for putting the tranny pan back on [from the dealership] $26.22
Money well spent and I saved a bunch doing it myself! It was actually a lot of fun!
I just finished test driving it and topping the ATF off......everything seems to be in tip-top shape! Thanks for your detailed DIY write up
There are 4 things I'd like to humbly add:
1. Make sure you have a long extension for your ratchet. This will make unbolting and bolting your tranny pan very easy.
2. Make sure you have a long funnel that will fit into the dipstick inlet for adding the ATF.
3. Since I did not have anyone to hold it for me and I really didn't want a puddle of ATF on my driveway, I modified a cardboard box (an old oil case to be exact) to hold an empty Kirkland cranberry juice container for me while I flushed the tranny. I actually used some ductape to hold it for me as well. If you have two bottles that will make your job even easier, but since I didn't, I just stuck the hose into a an empty ATF bottle while I went to dump the dirty ATF. The box serves a dual purpose - first it will help support the bottle and keep it from tipping - secondly, it will serve to catch any drips to keep them off your driveway.
4. While flushing the tranny, I found it took me 40-45 seconds to pump out the 2 Qts. of ATF each time.
I also want to thank you for the detailed post. I flushed mine today. I didn't drop the pan, just drained it. If your fluid is not that brown or burnt you may get by without dropping it. For a DIY at home flush, this is as good if not better than taking it to a place like jiffy lube. God know what those retards will do to your truck. I don't even think they drain the pan when they do it, they just hook the machine to the cooler outlet. As far as people wanting to flush out more than 2 Quarts at a time, the pan only holds 4 quarts, so your levels will be extremely low unless you can get some help and add fluid while you flush. The key is to keep track and replace what you take out. It took me 40 seconds to flush 2 quarts. It would be great to just add fluid as it pumps out and just do 12 quarts in one shot, but the dip stick funnel is slow. You will pump out more than you can put in.
I have a 06 SR5 Double Cab, with the 4.7L, and I have read all the comments of how to but what mileage?? I have heard 50K, 60K? What? I get my oil change done where I live by the ole coupon cheapest servicer. I have 49300 on my truck now. I bought it used and starting around 40K everytime I got an oil change at 3K, they told me I need a transmission flush that cost around $200. I looked in my manual and of course there wasnt any information on it. Can someone help?
I have an 06 Tundra DC that I bought used with 28K miles on it. I now have almost 35K on it. I have no idea how the previous owner treated the truck. I want to flush all 16qts of the fluid with new fluid, but I don't think it's necessary to drop the pan at this time.
I was looking in the manual and it said to use only Toyota WS fluid. Do I have to use this, or can I switch it to the Mobil 1 synthetic?
I have a 06 SR5 Double Cab, with the 4.7L, and I have read all the comments of how to but what mileage?? I have heard 50K, 60K? What? I get my oil change done where I live by the ole coupon cheapest servicer. I have 49300 on my truck now. I bought it used and starting around 40K everytime I got an oil change at 3K, they told me I need a transmission flush that cost around $200. I looked in my manual and of course there wasnt any information on it. Can someone help?
A lot of people think negatively on flushes done by your garden variety stations. The safest way you can go is to just drain ATF everytime you change the oil the next 5-6 times. Of course you won't get all of the old ATF out. But over time your ATF will be pretty new.
I bought my '02 used at about 67k but knew that the prev. owner took really good care of the truck maintenance wise. So I wasn't really worried about doing the DIY here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRDSport
I have an 06 Tundra DC that I bought used with 28K miles on it. I now have almost 35K on it. I have no idea how the previous owner treated the truck. I want to flush all 16qts of the fluid with new fluid, but I don't think it's necessary to drop the pan at this time.
I was looking in the manual and it said to use only Toyota WS fluid. Do I have to use this, or can I switch it to the Mobil 1 synthetic?
It's ok to switch, but not only 1 drain @ 4 qts. at a time. Just not a good idea to mix fluids. The DIY here still leaves an x amount of old in. But if you drain after the flush every oil change for the next 4-5 times, I think the great proportion of the ATF that's left will be the one you're trying to change to.
People get different results w/ the same methods; and same result w/ different methods. Lots of discussion on this topic in this forum, search for it to get a better idea of the range of opinions out there.
Ran into a issue today. Went out and was looking around the engine bay, but I couldn't find the dipstick for the tranny. Am I just overlooking it or did Toyota in their wiseness not include one? I know my 07 Tacoma did not have a tranny dipstick. Hopefully someone else w/ an 05/06 DC can chime in.
Ran into a issue today. Went out and was looking around the engine bay, but I couldn't find the dipstick for the tranny. Am I just overlooking it or did Toyota in their wiseness not include one? I know my 07 Tacoma did not have a tranny dipstick. Hopefully someone else w/ an 05/06 DC can chime in.