Timing belt replacement - What else should I get done at the same time?

[Sigr6]

So it's time for me to get a new timing belt and I have a few questions.

1) Should I get the tensioner changed as well? It's about an extra $75 to get it done.

2) Should I change the water pump? It's about an extra $275 to get it done.

3) They also quoted me changing the drive belt, I assume that is the same as the serpentine belt. I guess it has to come off in the process so they might as well change it.

Just for the belt it was around $400 but it starts to add up quickly with water pump, drive belt, and tensioner. That being said, if it really all needs to be replaced instead of just the belt I'd rather go ahead and get it done.

Anything else I should get done at the same time?

[stevekx]

The labor is the same regardless if you repalce the tensioner and the water pump. I had it all done at 80K, if I had just the belt done and the pump or the tensioner break 30K later then you need to pay for the labor again. They have to take of the serpentine belt either way so they should only charge for the part, no exrta labor is involved. I think it is a 4+ hour job even for a professional to do the timing belt and all other parts.

[Sigr6]

Does the water pump have to come off to change the timing belt?

[LifeTech]

Originally Posted by stevekx

The labor is the same regardless if you repalce the tensioner and the water pump. I had it all done at 80K, if I had just the belt done and the pump or the tensioner break 30K later then you need to pay for the labor again. They have to take of the serpentine belt either way so they should only charge for the part, no exrta labor is involved. I think it is a 4+ hour job even for a professional to do the timing belt and all other parts.

Labor-rate manual allows approx. 4 hours (depending on vehicle model) for the Timing belt alone and some additional time is allowed for the w. pump while your in there. ($400 typical for labor...give or take + parts-approx $200) Personally, I would only use a new OE W-Pump or OE Reman. if New Pump is not available.

I have seen both W. Pump and T-Belt along with idler pulley bearings changed in under 3 hours on a transverse mounted engine.

This of course done by a Master tech with 13+ years Toyota experience.

In most cases the water pump does not need to be touched to do just the T-Belt. But it is common and sensible practice to replace at T-Belt intervals.

Yu will save money in the long run.

Also,the same holds true, when doing a needed water pump replacement, It IS also prudent to replace the Timing belt while yu are there as well.

The T- Belt part is not expensive compared to the Water pump and idler bearing/pulley.


LT

[Matador98]

Yes, replace the tensioner and the waterpump. I think there was a failure here on TS due to the tensioner failing, so replace it. If the waterpump starts to leak for whatever reason before the next 90K is up, the timing belt has to be replaced again as water ruins it. It's best to do it.

[Sigr6]

So the list so far is:

1) timing belt
2) drive belt
3) tensioner
4) water pump

Should I replace anything else like a pulley or anything? Thanks again guys!

[ctbale]

I would just inspect the tensioner and pullys acording to pages 19 and 20

maybe replace the thermostadt?

if you cant open it, let me know, I can email it to you also

[Pistolero]

I read through the instructions, and it seems that there are a number of special tools required to loosen the pulleys, and to reassemble them. A few questions for those who've done this...

• Are these tools really necessary? What about the pullers to get the crank and crank timing pulley off? I generally like to have the right tools on hand to complete a job, but there appears to be a bunch of them required to get this job done.

• Would it be OK to loosen the crank pulley bolt before starting the entire process?

• Is it really necessary to remove the camshaft timing pulleys? I couldn't see where any purpose was served by their removal.

• Is a press really required to push in the tensioner assembly push rod?

I have only 53K on my '03, but I'm wondering about doing this myself if I still have the truck when I get to 90K. Thanks a lot for any info!

[ctbale]

I did not pull the camshaft pullys, only need to if camshaft seals leaking, not likley

to loosen the crank pully, I used an impact gun. (i know, bad for rod bearings, but what ya going to do) the best thing is a cheep chain wrench, and insulate the pully with a old serpentine bely or rubber tube.

you are going to need a harmonic balancer puller. on line for $10, sears $20

Tensioner. inspect the tensioner shaft for oil leak (small wetness is ok) Compress the shaft with a vice, then when its compressed, put a 1/16 or 3/32 drill bit thru the hole to keep it compressed, till its installed back on the engine

get a chiltons manual, worth the $20

you can turn the cams by hand, but its hard. I used a large pair of pliars with rubber handles. put the rubber handles in the "spokes" of the cam sprokets, then use a large screw driver or pry bar to turn the pliars/sprokets, a little primitive, but works. but like I said, with leather gloves, you can turn the cams.

I just inspected seals, I would not replace unless leaking. same with tensioner

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

almost same moter as lexus, but tundra does not have distibuters, or coils that shows in these pictures. I used a new chiltons manual. VERY HELPFULL!

[Sigr6]

So which pulleys do you recommend replacing? There appear to be quite a few.

[ctbale]

personally? I ain't replacing a perfectly good pulley. Just inspect them for smoothness. they are pretty well built. I asked my dealer the same question before I changed my TB. he doesn't even stock them, nor does he stock the tensioner. They should feel the same though, if one feels worn, or in any way different the the other one, replace it. (there are only two, one fixed, one on an arm that is doing the tensioning.)

I would do the water pump, more going on with that bearing, the weight and vibration's from the impeller, and one seal has coolant under pressure on the other side of it, among other things.

[Sigr6]

yeah, i got the same thing from my dealer, they don't stock the tensioner or pulleys.

[KFlash]

Sounds like there are a few of us out there ready to tackle this job. Between the TSM tutorial and the one based on the Lexus, this really doesn't seem bad at all. I have a few days in early Feb where I am going to give it a shot. Should be around 92K by then. Hope it isn't freezing!

[firemaster]

Originally Posted by ctbale

personally? I ain't replacing a perfectly good pulley. Just inspect them for smoothness. they are pretty well built. I asked my dealer the same question before I changed my TB. he doesn't even stock them, nor does he stock the tensioner. They should feel the same though, if one feels worn, or in any way different the the other one, replace it. (there are only two, one fixed, one on an arm that is doing the tensioning.)

I would do the water pump, more going on with that bearing, the weight and vibration's from the impeller, and one seal has coolant under pressure on the other side of it, among other things.

I agree, replace the belt tensioner, and also the water pump, even if it seems ok.

[kathyricks]

The Tundra motor is an interference motor. There was one Tundra V8 owner on this forum who changed the belt at 90K, but didn't change the tensioner. Then at 174K miles, just before he was getting to change the timing belt again (at 180K) the tensioner seized during a full throttle passing manuver causing the belt to come off. Instantly his engine was destroyed when the pistons collided with the engine valves at full throttle. Lesson learned: Replace the tensioner at every timing belt change or live dangerously. Or change the timing belt sooner than 90K the second time it is changed and change the tensioner at that time.