You are right Kathy but the wrenches often slip on the filter.
Exactly...those cap wrenches will ultimately slip. Many times for me.(on OE filters.)
I use a tension spring "one way clamp wrench and a 3/8 ratchet.(The best for removing) But they only work in counter clockwise direction. Yu cant wrench tighten an additional 1/4 turn with this type of wrench.
If you torque the damn filter correctly you don't need any of these gizmos. FYI, in my yrs of driving autos, I have never had to use a wrench or any other gizmo to get the filter out.
Thumb rule: Turn the filter till it cannot turn without force. Then turn the filter full turn, next day after the seal is heated to make contact with the oil pan, get under and turn counter clockwise 1/4 turn. The seal between the filter/pan is broken but broken enough not to leak.
If you torque the damn filter correctly you don't need any of these gizmos. FYI, in my yrs of driving autos, I have never had to use a wrench or any other gizmo to get the filter out.
Thumb rule: Turn the filter till it cannot turn without force. Then turn the filter full turn, next day after the seal is heated to make contact with the oil pan, get under and turn counter clockwise 1/4 turn. The seal between the filter/pan is broken but broken enough not to leak.
Overkill I think. Just handtighten, see how much effort to loosen, and then tighten again if it loosens too easily. Then, tightne again until you feel a good moderate tightness.
Did anyone consider that there is an actual torque spec for the Oil filters.
Makes me wonder how hand tightening would suffice. Although many people just hand tighten. And depending on your position to the Oil filter and where located, your leverage for hand tightening may be limited.
An I confess that I have done this a few times over the years.
But, 99.9% of the time, I always hand tighten then wrench one 1/4 turn additional.
A loose filter will KILL an engine for sure. And it always gets yu when your pants are down.
And the engine is toast. Sometimes your lucky and it will loosen just enough to trickle leak or sweat at the seal. (best case scenario)
I have seen this before on customers vehicles.
Why take a chance for the sake of convenience.
Wrench an additional 1/4 turn. Or just torque to spec.
I would not feel comfortable with hand tightening alone. Throw in the slippery filter and awkward working angles under the truck, and I have less confidence the filter could be made tight enough such that it would not work itself loose.
I've always hand tightened and never has any leaks or loosening problems. Probably because I use OEM filters. But I've always needed a cap wrench to loosen the filter. A good fitting toyota specific metal cap wrench will not slip.
Don't the instructions say:
1) Oil oring
2) Thread on new filter until o-ring makes slightest contact with engine
3) Then tighten 1 full turn
I tighten my Purolator 359 degrees after oring to engine contact is made, mainly because the cheap metal begins to deform at precisely 359.5 degrees. Use the OEM filter, you can get that extra 1 degree of 'tightness'.
/Mike
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2001 2WD Silver Tundra: 4x4 TRD springs, Daystar 1", Carson AAL, red/blue Bilsteins, 265/75 Revo's, IS kit(minus bumper) and rims(hand polished), RF851X amp, Alpine HU, JL 6.5"XR comps, Qlogic with JL 8W3V2 subs. 185k miles and counting......
2005 Silver Sienna LE with 12" Overhead DVD
I never oil the "O" ring, and I hand tighten and wrench a 1/4 turn, By using Toyota OEM filters I'm insured to receive the highest quality product, including a pre lubed O ring, part of the attention to detail from Toyota that goes a long way to achieve 500k trouble free miles...
The $3.95 Toyota (Denso) oil filter made in Thailand DOES come with a prelubed O-ring. The instructions on the box say to apply engine oil to the o-ring anyway and tighten it 3/4 turn using a cap type oil filter wrench.
The '01-'02 Tundra transmission has a mechanical weakness (its exploding planetary gear) so no amount of Bobistheoilguy tranny products (magnafine tranny filters, auto-rx, Amsoil Universal tranny fluid or Mobil 1 ATF will save it from exploding before 500K. Instead of spending money on those gimmick products, you'd be better off buying a spare used '03-'06 tranny from an auto wrecking recycling company like www.taprecycling.com
The '01-'02 Tundra transmission has a mechanical weakness (its exploding planetary gear) so no amount of Bobistheoilguy tranny products (magnafine tranny filters, auto-rx, Amsoil Universal tranny fluid or Mobil 1 ATF will save it from exploding before 500K. Instead of spending money on those gimmick products, you'd be better off buying a spare used '03-'06 tranny from an auto wrecking recycling company like TAP Recycling (800) 765-7100
What!! why thats! Thats just Blasphemy!
Everyone here knows Toyota's run forever, and in the unlikely event that they require a tear down, the internals will look just like they came out of a machine shop hot tank... Providing you use only Toyota fluids and filters...
Re: WOW! Fram vs Toyota oil filters
Or just torque to spec.
why thats! Thats just Blasphemy! 
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