I think nearly all of us agree that anything made by man will have defects. Also I think nearly all of us agree that nothing manufactured on an assembly line can be perfect.
Unfortunately there are people that feel that they have always made the best choice or have the correct opinion. They will defend their point to the death without regard to reason or logic or science.
Whenever a thread starts about: "what is the best oil filter?", or "what is the best oil?", or "how can you make your truck last forever?" there are different opinions. There are those that are devout and will not change their opinion. Some take things way too personal and are offended by others opinions.
I believe that our trucks are the best. Since they are not perfect, we have great sites like this one. It's here that we discuss their imperfections, try to fix things and do what's best to protect our investment.
I make mistakes. Toyota engineers make mistakes. Workers on the assembly line make mistakes. After-market and OEM manufacturers make mistakes. And we deal with the mistakes.
Oh, by the way, if we go back to the first message, looks like Fram made a mistake. Amazing!
Not that I use Frams, but I could imagine a Toyota going 500K if the owner used them exculsively. The savings of using a $3 oil filter might be important to it's owner. Albeit a bad thing in my book. A risk.
It's a cosmetic issue (blue smoke out the tailpipe for a moment when the engine is first started) that doesn't affect the longevity of the engine.
I don't agree with that statement. Around 100K, this blow-by is a bad sign.
If I observe it around 500K, I will accept it, and realize I got my moneys worth out that engine. And just push it till it drops.
Initial startup in very cold weather will produce a brief blue puff. And this can be observed in an un-broken-in engine with only 6 miles on it.
But after full break-in, for it to linger through idle-down is not very promising for the long run.
This blow-by (seepage of oil past the valve stem oil seals) occurs only while the engine is shut off. It does not occur when the engine is running, therefore it does not affect oil consumption. So Toyota engines that put out a puff of blue smoke at start up can still have very low rates of oil consumption (e.g. 3000-6000 miles per quart), very clean spark plugs, very clean tailpipe emissions and very high compression because there is negligible blow by during regular driving. If you had kept your '88 Corolla then you'd know this first hand.
this forum has helped me, I got a 2001 tundra with 119. kind of had a rough life I think. did the steering rack bushings, DJs alignment, steering colum seal, timing belt, ss headers, and now I dont worry about low oil px, and I did get a small puff of the blue smoke at 10 below, but I have had it for 1000 miles, and has not burned any oil at all. almost sold it because of loose steering, the exhaust leak, and timing belt not having been changed, and the noises coming thru firewall. but thanks to this forum, I am keeping my tundra ... until my planetary gear explodes (dont use OD when driving around town should make it last, makes it peppy thats for sure) My garage is only 217 in long so this is the biggest truck that will fit in my heated garage, big plus here in ak. might keep it for 2 or 3 years, then find a cherry, 2003 to 2006,(with better tranny) and keep that one for 10 years! LOVE THE TUNDRAS!!!!!!!!
There are OE oil filters.
There are premium Oil filters.
Then there is crap. Fram and Purolator being the best CRAP out there.
Using this crap, yu are being penny wise, pound foolish.
Also, feel secure in knowing that if yu use an OE filter that the dealers will be your friend. And that is fine.
However for those "in the know", a premium filter is way superior to these rebranded, not truly made by Toyota OE Toyota filters. And guess who makes them?
BTW $31.90 is the best discount price for a case of OE spin-ons.(D1's)
But I like my premium filters the best. Even though I have a few cases of OE's lying around. I see the difference. It is apparant to me.
I will use the OE's...but I use Two(2) per OCI. The Oe's are built somewhat ok...but they use horrible filter media.
Anti OE bot
LT
Can you point me to where you found that price of 31.90 for the case of filters? Best I can find is the 39 dollar price with free shipping for the oem denso filters.
I think nearly all of us agree that anything made by man will have defects. Also I think nearly all of us agree that nothing manufactured on an assembly line can be perfect.
Unfortunately there are people that feel that they have always made the best choice or have the correct opinion. They will defend their point to the death without regard to reason or logic or science.
Whenever a thread starts about: "what is the best oil filter?", or "what is the best oil?", or "how can you make your truck last forever?" there are different opinions. There are those that are devout and will not change their opinion. Some take things way too personal and are offended by others opinions.
I believe that our trucks are the best. Since they are not perfect, we have great sites like this one. It's here that we discuss their imperfections, try to fix things and do what's best to protect our investment.
I make mistakes. Toyota engineers make mistakes. Workers on the assembly line make mistakes. After-market and OEM manufacturers make mistakes. And we deal with the mistakes.
Oh, by the way, if we go back to the first message, looks like Fram made a mistake. Amazing!
There are OE oil filters.
There are premium Oil filters.
Then there is crap. Fram and Purolator being the best CRAP out there.
Using this crap, yu are being penny wise, pound foolish.
Also, feel secure in knowing that if yu use an OE filter that the dealers will be your friend. And that is fine.
However for those "in the know", a premium filter is way superior to these rebranded, not truly made by Toyota OE Toyota filters. And guess who makes them?
BTW $31.90 is the best discount price for a case of OE spin-ons.(D1's)
But I like my premium filters the best. Even though I have a few cases of OE's lying around. I see the difference. It is apparant to me.
I will use the OE's...but I use Two(2) per OCI. The Oe's are built somewhat ok...but they use horrible filter media.
Anti OE bot
Frams do suck! However the Purolator Pure ones are about the best out there and I am pretty sure that the Toyota ones are made by Puralator which is why they are known for being good. Just 2cents.
Toyota oil filters are made by DENSO. Made in Thialand So I'm not sure if that is a good company or not. I buy only Purolator Pure one oil filters. Why because they sponsor the Bass Masters classic and I have faith in these filters. I only bought a Framer once when money was tight. I went back to the Purolator instead.
Kinda funny if you think about it.... buy automotive engine oil filters from a company because they support a fishing event. At an oil change every 3000 miles, I don't pay much attention to the brand as long as it is on sale and isn't just a white filter with a barcode on it sitting on the shelf (i.e., a generic filter).... lol.
I used to use Fram and whatever dino was on sale exclusively on my '93 Corolla for about 150k. Only thing I noticed after I switched back to OEM or PureOne was the fact that with the Fram I had more startup noise (dry start?) from drain back. The next 70k was Dino oil and OE or PureOne. Motor was very clean as per mechanic when I changed my timing belt for the 4th time at about 210k (siezed tensioner pulley fcaused early failure) Car ran great (still got 38 mpg when driven easy on highway trips) but did burn 1 qt per 1,000 miles after about 150k. Auto RX dropped that down to 1/3 qt per 1,000 but was slowly creaping back up as the miles went back on. Unfortunately the hit and run driver that totalled it on me prevented me from going past the 220k mark.
I can also attest that 3k dino changes and Fram had my old Chevy Malibu with a 305 running fine with over 300k on it but also burned some and valve seals leaked when it sat.
I do prefer the quality of the OE/premium filters but haven't noticed much difference in my UOA using the cheaper filters. The better oils (M1 or PP) showed much better results even with 5k vs. 3k dino changes. Biggest thing for any of these is to make sure you change oil consisitently. The synthetic motors I've seen taken apart for "normal" type stuff did show less junk in the corners etc than those with regular dino oil. I also do sme cold weather stuff and the piece of mind to know it still flows in sub zero temps makes it worth it to me in my "new" cars.
I do a UOA at least once a year just for reference. To do it just to see if I don't need to changed it yet costs too much. $20+ for the UOA or $28 for new filter with Synthetic oil. Might as well just change it and know that it is clean.
Oh yeah, as far as the "magnets" thing. Both my cars have a Filtermag installed and for LT, the oil filter cutter was like $15. Basically a more like a pipe cutter that cuts the end off nice and clean. EVERY filiter I take off when I check it has that grey pastey goop that you find on magnetic plugs and tranny magnets. Obviously very small metal particles that at least I'm keeping out of the oil to help reduce wear.
Last edited by sequoiasoon; 09-17-2008 at 04:56 AM.
Re: WOW! Fram vs Toyota oil filters
And that is fine.
Re: WOW! Fram vs Toyota oil filters
....hence the name of the website.
2000 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4x4 Black
Linear Mode
