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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Manual hub conversion pics", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Just posted the first batch of pictures of the warn hubs, manual hub conversion, and brake TSB...
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
Those hubs ARE the reason for the Mickeys. I tried to get a machine shop to bore the IS stock wheels, but they felt the process would have weakened the IS wheels too much.
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
Gotta a couple of questions for you. I notice that the stub shaft projecting from the new CV joint (outer) has a bearing surface and I seem to be seeing a caged needle or straight roller bearing inside the front hub on the inboard side. The needle bearing supports the stub shaft coming out of the CV joint. When the hubs are FREE, the stub shaft is stationary and the hub turns...hence the need for a bearing at this point.
Question No. 1: Is there a grease fitting anywhere on the hub or a plugged port that will allow regreasing of the needle (spindle) bearing without having to remove the steering knuckle to get at it from the back side?
Question No. 2: In the instructions that came with the kit, is there any discussion of or prohibition related to operating the system with the 4WD engaged and the hubs set to the FREE position?
What I'm drving at is an answer to the question as to what happens if the hubs are FREE and the 4wd is inadvertently engaged and goes unnoticed. In addition, I'm wondering if the 4wd can be engaged at low speeds with the hubs FREE to exercise the front differential from time-to-time? That would be a real plus for those of us who spend 99% of the time in 2WD on hard pavement.
Herb,
There isn't a grease fitting anywhere on any part of this kit/modification. The hub is packed with a specific grease, however, just like other manual hub equipped vehicles.
I don't recall any prohibitions on the use of 4wd without the hubs engaged. I would however suggest that you just lock in the hubs occassionally and drive a short distance, or drive off road in 4wd to mix up the differentail fluids.
Also, I don't recall reading anything about inadvertant 4wd use with the hubs in free. I have done this with other vehicles with no adverse effects. I would suggest you contact Mike at Off Road Solutions, he builds the kit and would be able to give you better answers than me. All I can say with confidence is that it is a super high quality kit and installed easily, AND more importantly, works as advertised.
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
You could leave those hubs locked with no adverse effects right? Then you can still use the push button 4wd? I don't like the idea of not being lazy and actually having to get out and lock the hubs when I want to use 4wd. If I am in the mud or something I just want to hit the and keep on truckin'. Those locking hubs don't appear to stick out that far (I consider that to be a good thing) I have Cone center caps on my weld wheels. It would be great if I could cover the locking hub with the cone cap. I doubt that would be possible.
Yes, you could keep the hubs locked all the time, that's actually what you are doing now, and you could probably conceal them under your caps, but how would you get to them to lock or unlock? I guess you could keep them unlocked most of the time while on the street, then lock them when you anticipate the use of 4wd, that's what I am doing so far.
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
I don't know if the Tundra is different, but you should never engage 4wd with the hubs free. My Ranger warned of doing this. Don't ask me why. You can however leave the hubs engaged and run 2wd.
Originally posted by ToyTun21 I don't know if the Tundra is different, but you should never engage 4wd with the hubs free. My Ranger warned of doing this. Don't ask me why. You can however leave the hubs engaged and run 2wd.
I had a 96 Ranger and I seem to remember seeing what you mentioned in the owner's manual. But it also said that 4Lo could be engaged and used for heavy duty, short distance, low speed towing with the hubs set to the FREE position.
Of course, the stock Ranger hubs were no where near the quality of premium Warn hubs.
The best source for information on this would be Warn. Their toll free number is 1-800-543-9276.
On those trucks you don't want to shift into 4 wheel drive at speed with your hubs in "free." If you do, you will hear a big clash in the transfer case, since one shaft will be at speed and the other stationary. I had a '90 Ford with "optional" manual locking hubs and the owner's manual also allowed using 2wd low range (hubs free) for extra pulling power. The reason was the transmission had no granny low and was geared too high in 1st and reverse for pulling without burning the clutch.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
Originally posted by Dude Boy On those trucks you don't want to shift into 4 wheel drive at speed with your hubs in "free." If you do, you will hear a big clash in the transfer case, since one shaft will be at speed and the other stationary. I had a '90 Ford with "optional" manual locking hubs and the owner's manual also allowed using 2wd low range (hubs free) for extra pulling power. The reason was the transmission had no granny low and was geared too high in 1st and reverse for pulling without burning the clutch.
Thanks Bob. That squares with my recollection of the Ranger which in my case had the optional manual hubs, a 5 speed manual transmission (geared very high in 1st) and a manual transfer case.
I talked to Warn this morning and they say that running the front axles in 4WD configuration with their hubs set to the FREE position will not damage the hubs.
Herb,
Are you going to do the conversion? Feel free to contact me if you need any specific information. Saw you retired as a maintenance guy, ground or aviation maintenance? Have we ever crossed paths? I spent most of my time at Campbell, special ops and 101st, how about you?
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
Originally posted by flyin6 Herb,
Are you going to do the conversion? Feel free to contact me if you need any specific information. Saw you retired as a maintenance guy, ground or aviation maintenance? Have we ever crossed paths? I spent most of my time at Campbell, special ops and 101st, how about you?
I haven't decided about the conversion just yet. I'm looking into what's required in the form of periodic maintenance of the spindle bearings. If the shaft has to be pulled out to do that, I don't see that as being a good thing. It would depend on the frequency.
Do you know specifically what grease is recommended for the spindle bearings?
I was into tracked and wheeled vehicles at Aberdeen Proving Grounds, Ft. Riley, 1st Infantry Division Vietnam, and elsewhere. I'm also a pilot but I prefer not to do my own work. I tend to be a bit forgetful at times. That's one of the reasons I quite flying.
BTW, do they still call the nut that holds the main rotor blades in place the "Jesus Nut".
I doubt that our paths have crossed but, who knows, I may have dated your grandmother.
Thanks for the kind offer of assistance. I can use all the help I can get.
I talked to Warn this morning and they say that running the front axles in 4WD configuration with their hubs set to the FREE position will not damage the hubs.
Yep, that's the way I see it too. Just put in 4WD before you drive off!
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
The toyota mechanic used the factory Toyota specific CV grease on the CV joints, and the standard Toyota specific wheel bearing grease for the hub assembly as far as I know. The free/engaged selector worked freely during the last winter blast when I was engaging, disengaging the hubs at least once a day.
I have heard of the retaining nut called by the name of our maker! That thing was torqued to something like 3,600 ft lbs, I'm still walking the earth, so I guess it holds!
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
Manual hub conversion pics
2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
