Transfer Case Capacity

[kdogcrozier]

I am switching my 2002 tundra over to Amsoil synthetic fluids and I was wondering what the capacity of the transfer case is? I can't seem to find it...

I am going with Synthetic ATF in the tranny, 75w-90 in the front diff, 80w-90 in the rear diff (do I need anything special since its an LSD?), 75w-90 in the transfer case.

I am running 5w-30 in the motor.

Thanks,
Kevin

[nhparrot]

1.1 qts (US) in a Tundra, 1.3 qts (US) for Sequoia

[Herb]

Originally posted by kdogcrozier
I am switching my 2002 tundra over to Amsoil synthetic fluids and I was wondering what the capacity of the transfer case is? I can't seem to find it...

I am going with Synthetic ATF in the tranny, 75w-90 in the front diff, 80w-90 in the rear diff (do I need anything special since its an LSD?), 75w-90 in the transfer case.

I am running 5w-30 in the motor.

Thanks,
Kevin

Kevin: The capacities are listed on page 279 of your 02 owner's manual. You are definitely doing the right thing.

What you won't find in the owner's manual is the torque specs for all the various drain plugs. Those appear in the Shop Manuals. Being a nut, I like to use a torque wrench and tighten everything to the recommended specs.

Here's a list or torques and tools required.

Front Differential: Use 10mm hex bit type socket. Drain plug torque is 48 foot-pounds and the fill plug torque is 29 foot- pounds.

Transfer Case: Use a 24mm 6 point socket. Drain and fill plug torques are 27 foot-pounds.

Rear Differential: Use a 24mm 6 point socket. Drain and fill plug torques are 36 foot-pounds.

Always remove the fill plug first to make sure you can get it out.

The drain plug on the rear differential may turn out to be a challenge. These have been pulled up very tight at the factory. If you don't have an impact wrench (takes it right out) have a lube shop do it for you. I think most charge about $10 if you provide the oil. If you try to use a 12 point socket on the drain plug, you may round the corners off a bit. I did and I still couldn't get the sucker out. That's why I recommend a 6 point socket and all the ones I've seen in this size are impact sockets. I have one of those on my list of things to buy.

Since you probably don't have the torque spec for the engine oil pan drain plug either, that one is 29 foot pounds.

If you use a synthetic in the LSD, there is no need to add a friction modifier.

Herb

[akauth]

Herbs right. The drain plugs are pretty tight. Though I'd recommend that you stop by an Autozone, Pep Boys or Kragen and invest in a 1/2 inch breaker bar (and/or a 1/2 inch drive ratchet - 50 ft lbs won't kill a half inch ratchet) and a 1/2 inch 6 point socket. You can can get an impact socket (or not). The advantage to an impact socket is that you can whack on the end of breaker bar or ratchet with a hammer on a REALLY tight nut/bolt and you won't crack the chrome on the socket (there won't be any and that's the first thing that gives) or crack the socket wall itself (that's the next thing).

You'll find that breaking it loose with this (the right tool if no power tools) is practically effortless and then it's just as effortless to tighten it back up again. I'd torque it once then check to see how "tight" it is by hand. After that you can just tighten it by hand. If you use fiber washers, you'll have a wide margin of error on tightening. If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten plenty tight with a 3/8ths ratchet (that length handle limit your overtightening unless you go "nuts" on it).

I think you'll find that if you put in fiber washers in place of aluminum or copper ones, that you won't have to tighten over 30 ft-lbs in either the drain or the fill plug and that will be plenty tight - even with synthetic. Then you just have to intuitively "snug it up good". If you get some synthetic migration, just snug it a big more until the slight leakage stops.

Personally, I use fiber washers (it will be 18 mm) and not only will you have a superior seal, but you won't have to tighten it nearly so tight (if you don't want to) as you would with metal gaskets.

If you use a metal washer, better be sure to snug it tight. AND really be sure to snug it tight if you are using synthetic. Otherwise you'll find the bottom of your differential covered with an oily film. It won't be "leaking" but it will migrate out of the hole. (Technically, it is leaking, but it's not really even measurable, it just attracts dirt and I like to keep everything clean and dust/dirt free. Things rust less that way. Though if your pumpkin is covered with oil, it likely isn't going to rust anyway. Just picks up a pretty good layer of dirt (that rubs off on your shoulders/body/etc. when you scurry on a creaper underneath checking on things.

Alan

Originally posted by Herb
Kevin: The capacities are listed on page 279 of your 02 owner's manual. You are definitely doing the right thing.

What you won't find in the owner's manual is the torque specs for all the various drain plugs. Those appear in the Shop Manuals. Being a nut, I like to use a torque wrench and tighten everything to the recommended specs.

Here's a list or torques and tools required.

Front Differential: Use 10mm hex bit type socket. Drain plug torque is 48 foot-pounds and the fill plug torque is 29 foot- pounds.

Transfer Case: Use a 24mm 6 point socket. Drain and fill plug torques are 27 foot-pounds.

Rear Differential: Use a 24mm 6 point socket. Drain and fill plug torques are 36 foot-pounds.

Always remove the fill plug first to make sure you can get it out.

The drain plug on the rear differential may turn out to be a challenge. These have been pulled up very tight at the factory. If you don't have an impact wrench (takes it right out) have a lube shop do it for you. I think most charge about $10 if you provide the oil. If you try to use a 12 point socket on the drain plug, you may round the corners off a bit. I did and I still couldn't get the sucker out. That's why I recommend a 6 point socket and all the ones I've seen in this size are impact sockets. I have one of those on my list of things to buy.

Since you probably don't have the torque spec for the engine oil pan drain plug either, that one is 29 foot pounds.

If you use a synthetic in the LSD, there is no need to add a friction modifier.

Herb

[KLS]

You do need a LSD additive, but most gear oils designed for differentials already contain the friction modifier additive you need, synthetic or not. It'll be on the label or info sheet for the gear oil.


Ken

[RitcheyRch]

I changed my rear diff lube to Mobil synthetic today. I bought 4 quarts as the owners manual states but only used 3 quarts.

[jawaring]

Originally Posted by RitcheyRch

I changed my rear diff lube to Mobil synthetic today. I bought 4 quarts as the owners manual states but only used 3 quarts.

Intersting point. I changed over to synthetic also. The diff seems to be full at three qts. The manual says 3.7 but by that time it's rushing to come back out. I've heard that you should only fill it until it first starts to dribble back out. Is this the case your should you force it to the correct fill level?

[itwonder]

Originally Posted by nhparrot

1.1 qts (US) in a Tundra, 1.3 qts (US) for Sequoia

That's what my Sequoia Owner's Manual says, 1.3 qts. But after an overnight drain, I've put in 36 ounces of gear oil and it's running out of the filler hole. Anybody else notice the same on the Sequoia???