Electric fan conversion?

[bloodypulp]

Has anyone replaced the mechanical clutch fan to an electrical unit? i see that SummitRacing has a PermaCool kit for the Tundra.

[Kev42]

take off that gas/power robbing fan

Hope that helps some.

[v8Toilet]

That link doesn't work!

What's the part # for the kit?

[Ring Steel]

Are just the fan and mounting bracket required, or does it need some kind of fan controller (to turn the fan on and off)? It sounds like a great mod.

Ring Steel

[mustang67408]

i called my buddy at SUMMIT and he said "WHAT???"
Do you have a part # or is it just the universal kit your reffering to?

[lelandstanford]

Are you refering to Sequoia's pusher fan?

[bloodypulp]

Summit TruckStyle catalog part#PRM-19512 $530 (friggin' expensive!)
but if the Sequoia part fits, that'll save some serious coin.

[v8Toilet]

I don't see any post by Nitrousfed!!!!

[fyr145]

Moderators Note: Nitrousfeds' post was removed because he was not permitted to do so. He will not be posting.

-----fyr145

[mustang67408]

The sequoia fan is only for the air conditioning it is not for engine cooling. It is mounted infront of the condensor. It would definatly help the a/c in hot areas.
The permal cool fans are dual 14" and replace the stock clutch fan.
$525.00 summit price on back order (OUCH!!) thats pricey.

[lelandstanford]

The Tundra's radiator is about 29" wide. I wonder how PermaCool cramp 2 14" fans in?

Does it have variable speed like Flex-A-Lite?

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/270_280.htm

[Mudog715]

The Tundra fan roars after idling a while with the A/C on because the idle rpm is too low for the fan to pull enough air through, even though the fan clutch is fully engaged. As soon as you step on the gas, the fully engaged fan roars with the engine revs until the fan clutch "catches up" with the newfound airflow and begins to disengage. In stop-and-go rush-hour traffic, this cycle repeats after every red light. The coolant temp actually creeps up from the "norm" of 181-186 or so while crusing into the 200-205 range! The scary part is the stock coolant temp gauge barely registers the difference, but it's quite apparent when you use a OBD2 scan tool to monitor the CTS (coolant temp sensor).

The other negative side effect is insufficient airflow across the A/C condenser at idle, resulting in excessive high-side refridgerant pressure. This actually causes the compressor to cut out at idle on very hot days. Mine does it in the 115 deg Phoenix summer days when the truck just sits and idles. It's perfectly normal for the truck, as the charge is correct (not overcharged), there just isn't enough airflow at idle with the A/C on in 115-120 deg ambient temps. Of course this means the A/C is not working at it's full potential and not cooling as well as it could at idle.

Toyota addressed the "design compromise" and because of the added A/C load in Sequoia's, they added an auxillary "pusher" fan. This fan is activated ONLY by A/C high-side pressure. When the pressure increases to a point above "normal" but below compressor cut-out, the fan is energized. This means the fan will kick in at idle on hot days with the A/C on. The added airflow across the condensor (and radiator) is enough to satisfy demand. Simple, effective.

Unfortunately, adding the FACTORY setup to the Tundra is prohibitively expensive. The Sequoia fan mounts directly to cast tabs on the A/C condensor, which is different from the one used on the Tundra. The A/C high-side pressure switch has 4 terminals and 2 internal contacts instead of the 2 terminal, 1 contact part on the Tundra. Then there is the fan itself (big$$$), relay & associated wiring.

I've actually assembled the parts to add this to my Tundra. I have a factory Toyota pusher fan from a late-model Corolla that is almost an exact match for the Sequoia part. I am making custom brackets to mount it where the Sequoia fan would be. Instead of changing out the high-side switch (which costs $46 and requires the refridgerant discharged/recharged) I am using a 1994-1997 Honda Accord "Timer, Radiator Fan" rewired in such a way that the pusher fan operates for 15 minutes after any engagement of the A/C clutch and continues to operate when the ignition is off (until the 15 minute timer runs out). This means when the A/C is on, the fan will run essentially continually instead of cycling on and off with the A/C clutch (as is the case with most factory electric fan setups) to provide maximum cooling. When the truck is shut off, the fan will continue to run for up to 15 minutes, which will reduce the "heat soak" in the engine compartment on a hot day. It also gives me a cool "trick" if I want to the fan to kick on without using the A/C and adding an extra switch: if I briefly turn the A/C on then off, the fan will come on and run until the 15 minute timeout even though the A/C is actually off.

This is 3rd on my list of to-do's below the AC Inverter Install and Power Antenna Kits. The good news is I got my AC Inverter installed this weekend, so the Power Antenna Kits should be done next week or the following. If there is enough interest in the Electric Aux. Fan, I may put together a wiring kit with a relay, fuse and the Honda timer, but sans fan.

I personally wouldn't go with an all-electric setup unless its using all OEM Toyota parts. Those aftermarket fans are not up to the same reliability standards as the OEM parts. They tend to fail at an alarming rate and will leave you stranded if you've removed the stock engine fan. They also cannot move the air the stock fan will move at higher engine RPMs (unless they're very high current draw). I know this firsthand, because my Jeep M715 has a 460 crammed in it, which didn't leave enough room for a engine-driven fan. I was forced to go all electric. Not wanting to put all my eggs in one basket, and needing MAXIMUM cooling for a 350 hp/500#ft big block (WITH AC!) I came up with an arrangement that covers every square inch of the radiator: 1-16" GM full-size front drive main fan and 2-8" Toyota Supra aux fans (pullers). The 3 fans move an amazing amount of air! They also draw just shy of 60A when they are all running! (The Corolla fan draws only 12 amps). I am also using a similar Fan Timer Setup, except with a Nissan part from a '79-83 280ZX which allows the fans to run for up to 17 minutes after key-off, as long as the cooling fan switch is closed (coolant temp above 189 deg).

[Mudog715]

A really trick setup would be what was (maybe still is) used on the Land Cruiser and some Lexi: a hydraulic radiator fan!

They have a little hydraulic motor that runs the fan, with no direct mechanical link to the engine (other than mounting). The hydraulic flow is provided by the power steering pump and metered by a small electric solenoid, in much the same way as vehicle speed sensing variable power steering. The solenoid is rapidy energized and deenergized by the Engine Computer using Pulse Width Modulation. As the pulse widths increase (causing longer "on" time) the solenoid opens further and allows more flow to the fan motor and increasing the speed accordingly. This has the benefits of an engine fan (maximum cooling capability when needed), the benefits of an electric fan (little to no parasitic engine drain under periods of low cooling demand or high rpm) and an added benefit of the computer being able to have essentially infinite fan speed control from off to maximum power. Instead of cycling on/off it runs continously, increasing speed as cooling demand increases. However the speed increase is independent of engine RPM. Really cool, IMHO. But really expensive :-( too.

[mustang67408]

The hydraulic fan sounds great in theory, but in real life on the CAMRY's THEY SUCKED! Had so many problems with them. The addition of the aux fans as MUD DOG 715 is the best way to go.
There is nothing better than OEM parts. I Happend to get my hands on a sequoia fan and am making brackets for it. I then used a relay and hooked it into the A/C. When the a/c is on the fan is on, there is also a override switch just in case. I like the idea of the HONDA TIMER, i am going to look into it.
My power antenna is a FACTORY 1998 4 runner antenna and relay. The antenna bolts right in and all you have to do is wire in the relay to the radio (I mounted relay to bottm of radio) and run 2 wires to the antenna.
The factory radio does not have wires for the antenna in the harness, but the pins ARE in the radio. Add 2 pins to the radio ,wire in the relay (6 wires), run 2 wires to the motor itself and your done. Taks just under 1 hr. and you need 4 clips for the inner fender liner you have to remove to mount the antena.

[v8Toilet]

Anyone ever think of using the A/C clutch from an A/C compressor and attaching it to the clutch fan and wiring it into the coolant temperature circuit so that it only engages when cooling is needed?