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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "ARB Air Locker", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I just started to research ARB Air Lockers, visited the ARB USA Website
They seem to have locker for both front and rear.. but I have misgivings about installing the compressor, tank, both diffs, wirign, hoses and who knows what else....
The ability to lock the wheels together with a switch is DEFINITELY the best way to go (for me), becuase I need maximum traction about ten or twelve times a year, at most, but when I need it , I REALLY need it, and I want them LOCKED - PERIOD!!
Having an LSD of any type seems to be of little or no value to me, becuase the vast majority of the time, my tundra goes just fine the way it came from the factory, and I do not want to deal with gear oils & additives, special maintenance, ratcheting around corners, lock-up when I don't want it, replacing clutches, etc, etc, ad nauseum.
What I really need (desperately) is any info anyone has about this mod.. has anyone done it? how tough is this intallation? how long would it take one guy with tons of tools but no assitance? Where do I locate the pump & run the pulley from the factory belt? Will tis affect other belt driven item (PS pump, AC) where do I put the air tank? (there has to be a pressure vessel/tank, right?) There are a lot of questions....
I really just wish I could find an electrically actuated locker so I didn't have to deal with all these issues..is there anything on the market for Tundra?
I humbly petition the wise for any knowledge they may have..
There have been a couple people here who has installed the ARB locker. It won't be long before they post here.
In the meantime I saw that Eaton has made an electric locker. Eaton has not said if they'd made any for foreign vehivles yet. Keep an eye on this too. Would be way better than the ARB.
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights
Just got an email reply from Eaton Traction. No firm plans for the Tundra...but it is "Under Consideration"
Called a few retailers and they dropped some names of companies that are talking about making electric lockers now that Eaton got the ball rolling: "Electrac" and "Auburn" Don't quote me on the spelling...
I looked in to this a while back and someone correct me if I am wrong but from my understanding the air compressor is 12v and doent run off the engine belt and you dont need an air tank ( unless you just want a volume of air to do somthing else with)thats the reason that the air compressor cost so much good quailty. Unless you have some air leaks in your line I wouldnt think you need a volume tank.
I considered this too but the installation is rather complicated. You have to remove the ring gear and reset the gears I believe. I did that once and don't want to do it again.
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stock exhaust
Formerly Modified JBA headers now SSautochrome headers temporarily
TRD LSD
Extang lift off tonneau
Hankook DynaPro AS RH03
stock air filter & box
220 HP @ 4800 RPM
302 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, stock air filter, and JBA headers
208 HP @ 4800 RPM
285 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, TRD air filter, and stock manifolds
204 HP @ 4800 RPM
271 TQ @ 3400 RPM Bone stock
Quarter mile 15.526 @ 87.17 mph bone stock in 40-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
Quarter mile 15.389 @ 88.66 mph modified in 60-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
0-60 IN 6.88 seconds on G-tech
Dyno run results click here
The ARB air lockers can be run off a York Compressor (or others), a CO2 tank or just the ARB Compressor. You can make it as complicated or as simple as you like. I'm running the ARB Compressor as it is a very simple install and was manufacture by ARB specifically to run their air lockers - there's a picture of the mounted compressor in my photo section. As for the install, you don't need to reset the gears. It’s a very simple install if you’ve worked on differentials previously. You should replace the bearings and seals, which in my opinion is cheap insurance, as they normally get nicked in the install process, which means you’ll be tearing down the differential a little later on to replace them. What the install basically entails is pulling the axles, open the housing, remove the pumpkin, exchange the stock ring carrier for the ARB carrier, drill and tap a hole in the housing for the air line fitting, put the pumpkin back together, and re-assemble everything. Then install the compressor, run the airlines, wire-up the compressor to the switches (there will be three switches, 1 for the compressor and 1 each for the front and rear locker as you can run them independently of each other) and you're good to go. If you have the tools, space and fair mechanical abilities, you can install the lockers and compressor over a weekend. There's nothing complicated about the install if you've ever worked on "rear-ends" before. For those of us not possessing the necessary tools/equipment for pulling and pressing bearings and not adept at calculating and installing backlash shims (if needed) or are just plain scared of tackling this type of project then we have to pay someone who is
Remember, once you or someone else has successfully installed an ARB locker and compressor, you can call yourself an expert at it - that's what the 4X4 shops do.
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