You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Laggy Bottom End", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
is it just the nature of the iforce to have a mushy bottom end (torque) or is it something else not letting the engine make the power its capable of? ive asked a couple people and ive been told the tundra's have a "speed sensitive fuel pump" and this is why they are like this. i was thinking about putting in an in-line fuel pump anyways and a fuelpressure regulator just for the hell of it. is it part of the restrictive exhaust? anyone have any thoughts on this?
Yup! First thing I did was adjust the fuel pulse damper located on the drivers side fuel rail 1/2 turn counter clockwise. This was the optimal position for my engine but it might not be for yours. It eliminated the bog off the line and I picked up 2/10's in the quarter mile or I went from a 15.7 to a 15.5. My 60-foot time went from 2.4 to 2.3 also indicating that I gained low-end torque. I did this per a recommendation of Nitrousfed. He claims that the I-force v8 is detuned by Toyota in this way. I don’t understand it totally but I know when I turn that small fillips screw ½ turn it makes a major difference. Hodgeee tried this adjustment and his truck ran worse so not all of them are the same.
Second thing I did was replace the stock muffler with a Spintech muffler and kept the stock piping. I tried the TRD dual exhaust and lost major low-end torque so I recommend that you don't go that rout.
Third thing I did was add a TRD air filter (Thanks Hodgee) and that in conjunction with the Spintech muffler has had a positive impact on power and low-end torque. See what Hodgeee found here No Loss in any power to date with mods.
Last thing I'm going to do is replace the stock exhaust manifolds with either the soon to come S&S headers or the JBA headers.
__________________
stock exhaust
Formerly Modified JBA headers now SSautochrome headers temporarily
TRD LSD
Extang lift off tonneau
Hankook DynaPro AS RH03
stock air filter & box
220 HP @ 4800 RPM
302 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, stock air filter, and JBA headers
208 HP @ 4800 RPM
285 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, TRD air filter, and stock manifolds
204 HP @ 4800 RPM
271 TQ @ 3400 RPM Bone stock
Quarter mile 15.526 @ 87.17 mph bone stock in 40-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
Quarter mile 15.389 @ 88.66 mph modified in 60-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
0-60 IN 6.88 seconds on G-tech
Dyno run results click here
Originally posted by v8Toilet Yup! First thing I did was adjust the fuel pulse damper located on the drivers side fuel rail 1/2 turn counter clockwise. This was the optimal position for my engine but it might not be for yours. It eliminated the bog off the line and I picked up 2/10's in the quarter mile or I went from a 15.7 to a 15.5.
Where is this damper, do you have a pic? What do you mean when saying "but it might not be for yours?" How can I tell if this is a concern with my engine? More torque would be great for me while pulling the travel trailer.
Thanks,
__________________ White 2000 Limited Access Cab, V8, 4WD, TRD with 223,040 miles
MODS: SUSPENSION: front - Cornfed 2" lift, rear - TRD add-a-leafs. INTERIOR: Sony MEX-1GP CD Receiver, tinted windows. EXTERIOR: Ventvisors, Covermaster Tonneau Cover, UTR bed liner, Reese hitch ELECTRICAL: Alarm and remote start package, Prodigy Brake Controller ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN:BF Goodrich AT KO LT285/75/R16 wrapped around Mickey Thompson Classics with 3 5/8" backspacing in front of brake calipers and drums painted red. Cat Back dual custom exhaust with glass packs and 2 1/2" Stainless tips straight back. Air intake box mod.
Here it is. Make sure you mark the position of where it was before you move it so that you can return it back to stock settings in case you have too. Most Tundra’s according to Nitrousfed come from the factory with the screw bottomed clockwise. The stock setting on mine was 1/4-turn counterclockwise from being bottomed out clockwise. I have it set at 3/4-turn now.
You'll have to play around with it too see if there is any room for improvement.
__________________
stock exhaust
Formerly Modified JBA headers now SSautochrome headers temporarily
TRD LSD
Extang lift off tonneau
Hankook DynaPro AS RH03
stock air filter & box
220 HP @ 4800 RPM
302 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, stock air filter, and JBA headers
208 HP @ 4800 RPM
285 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, TRD air filter, and stock manifolds
204 HP @ 4800 RPM
271 TQ @ 3400 RPM Bone stock
Quarter mile 15.526 @ 87.17 mph bone stock in 40-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
Quarter mile 15.389 @ 88.66 mph modified in 60-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
0-60 IN 6.88 seconds on G-tech
Dyno run results click here
__________________ White 2000 Limited Access Cab, V8, 4WD, TRD with 223,040 miles
MODS: SUSPENSION: front - Cornfed 2" lift, rear - TRD add-a-leafs. INTERIOR: Sony MEX-1GP CD Receiver, tinted windows. EXTERIOR: Ventvisors, Covermaster Tonneau Cover, UTR bed liner, Reese hitch ELECTRICAL: Alarm and remote start package, Prodigy Brake Controller ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN:BF Goodrich AT KO LT285/75/R16 wrapped around Mickey Thompson Classics with 3 5/8" backspacing in front of brake calipers and drums painted red. Cat Back dual custom exhaust with glass packs and 2 1/2" Stainless tips straight back. Air intake box mod.
Because the injectors operate on a pulse, they open and close very rapidly. This may cause undesirable fluctuations in the fuel pressure. The pulsation damper smoothens the fuel pressure fluctuations. The injectors operate on a pulse, they open and close very rapidly and this may cause undesirable fluctuations in the fuel pressure. A pulsation damper is mounted on one of the two fuel rails to dampen pressure variations due to the rapid opening and closing of the injectors.
Nitrousfed told me that this was a fuel pressure regulator so if someone has a factory manual than please look it up and let us know for sure. All I know is that my engine feels stronger when I back that screw out and I went from running 15.7 to 15.5 in the quarter mile when I changed the setting and my 60-foot time improved from 2.4 to 2.3. I also don't have that bog off the line either.
__________________
stock exhaust
Formerly Modified JBA headers now SSautochrome headers temporarily
TRD LSD
Extang lift off tonneau
Hankook DynaPro AS RH03
stock air filter & box
220 HP @ 4800 RPM
302 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, stock air filter, and JBA headers
208 HP @ 4800 RPM
285 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, TRD air filter, and stock manifolds
204 HP @ 4800 RPM
271 TQ @ 3400 RPM Bone stock
Quarter mile 15.526 @ 87.17 mph bone stock in 40-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
Quarter mile 15.389 @ 88.66 mph modified in 60-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
0-60 IN 6.88 seconds on G-tech
Dyno run results click here
Originally posted by moosehead9 Yes, there is a fuel pressure regulator...it is located on the right
fuel rail. The pulse damper is on the left side of the engine.
Did you mean left and right like driver and passenger or left and right like when facing the truck??
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights