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This is a discussion thread titled "no BS I need some more torque", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2003, 08:36 AM
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Unhappy no BS I need some more torque

We just dragged home our new 23 foot Chaparral deck boat and my 2002 4x4 access is not all that happy about towing it. We live in Colorado and drive some big hills to go boating, plus the power loss to altitude.

What is the bottom line about getting a few more foot pounds out of the 4.7 at a reasonable cost? No supercharge in my future as the boat is already more than I should be spending. Am I gonna have to go with an American truck? Argggg!
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Old 04-18-2003, 12:30 PM
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How much does the boat weigh?

No BS? You're not going to get any real significant power gains without some kind of forced induction = supercharger. Your Tundra was pretty much designed to produce the amount of torque it does (DOHC engines are traditionally not high-torque engines) the way it is built from the factory.

Quote:
No supercharge in my future as the boat is already more than I should be spending. Am I gonna have to go with an American truck? Argggg!
I've got news for you. If you can't afford a $4000 supercharger, how do you expect to afford an F250? Or any of the American trucks with a big block/diesel high torque engine? Its certainly going to be a lot more expensive than what you paid for your truck - even with the added price of the s/c - anything around the same price of the Tundra is going to have less torque and a weaker engine - unless you get something used.

good luck,

jason
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Old 04-18-2003, 09:41 PM
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Default Weight

Buddy of mine did a spacer on the intake runner and oversized the exaust to 3.25" with hiflow muffs... said it was 15% improvement from Stock ... Also added airbags to rear for leveling !

Good luck


Quote:
Originally posted by indecline
How much does the boat weigh?

No BS? You're not going to get any real significant power gains without some kind of forced induction = supercharger. Your Tundra was pretty much designed to produce the amount of torque it does (DOHC engines are traditionally not high-torque engines) the way it is built from the factory.


I've got news for you. If you can't afford a $4000 supercharger, how do you expect to afford an F250? Or any of the American trucks with a big block/diesel high torque engine? Its certainly going to be a lot more expensive than what you paid for your truck - even with the added price of the s/c - anything around the same price of the Tundra is going to have less torque and a weaker engine - unless you get something used.

good luck,

jason
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Old 04-19-2003, 12:47 AM
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Default Re: Weight

Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnyrcp
Buddy of mine did a spacer on the intake runner and oversized the exaust to 3.25" with hiflow muffs... said it was 15% improvement from Stock ... Also added airbags to rear for leveling !

Good luck

It may be an "advertised" 15 % increase but I can assure you that the setup described above will help your top end but your low end will suffer and that is where you need torque for towing. That exhaust system would need an x-pipe or similiar in order to help the low end. About the spacer are you talking about a throttle body spacer or did your friend make a custom spacer for the runner plenum?

Without going to a S/C the only other options maybe tuned headers and possibly some porting and polishing of the intake runners but neither of these will make a substantail difference. You can bet though as said already than any other truck in this class isn't going to make any better power than the tundra. If you're going to spend the cash get a S/C.


Jason
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Old 04-19-2003, 12:55 AM
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If a 1/2 Ton with more torque would be heavy enough, you might think about some options on an F-150 with a 5.4. They've got a lot more low end torque than a Tundra. You used to be able to get them with 4.10's. That would help too. The price should be about the same as a Tundra, maybe a bit less.
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Old 04-19-2003, 06:55 AM
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trade it in..a dakota r/t will pull better. Or get the nissan Titan 5.3 V8.
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Old 04-19-2003, 09:15 AM
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Default Change in axle ratio

A change in axle ratio is a permanent increase in torque applied to the ground - for a given ground speed - which is what towing needs. Maybe 15% higher gearing is what you need. Yes, in a 4x4 truck this requires two sets of gears to be changed, but that is the cost of 4 wheel drive.

Can you accept a 15% decrease in miles per gallon, to go along with the re-gearing? Re-gearing in this case is to make use of the higher torque the engine makes in the "higher than stock" cruising rpm (compared to stock gearing).

The Tundra V-8 has a torque peak at somewhere between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM. Until you chassis dyno your truck, you won't know the peak torque RPM (and equivalent ground speed for each transmission gear) for your truck. Re-gearing the axle ratios based on the dyno results should work well, if your wallet can handle it.

Good Luck
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Old 04-19-2003, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRDKEAU
trade it in..a dakota r/t will pull better.
LOL

02 Dak R/T = 2000lbs max tow
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Old 04-19-2003, 02:30 PM
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A change in axle ratio is the only thing that will work for you with this present truck.

Forget all the talk about torque. It's not meaningful. What you and everybody needs is horsepower at the rpms they're working the engine. Lower gear ratios make the engine spin faster and produce more hp at the same mph, at the expense of fuel consumption. The horsepower curve is what you need to consider. Any add-ons, K&N stuff, etc., need to be carefully evaluated to see if they give you any more hp at the rpms you really use, not more hp (if any) at peak rpm. If S&S ever gets going on the headers, they've been requested to increase the hp in the 2000-4000 rpm range, not at peak.

Right now, what can you do?
1) Never tow that boat in Overdrive.
2) Install an additional transmission cooler and synthetic ATF.
3) Run up to, say, 4500 rpm by manual downshifting...minimize shifts to minimize transmission heat and wear.
4) Downshift early when driving down hill, and come down in 2nd, or 1st if need be.
5) Your boat trailer has brakes, yes? Trailer brakes are essential anytime the total weight is above the truck's GVWR of 6k#.
6) Take your time.
7) Regear the differentials.


Ken
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Old 04-19-2003, 05:00 PM
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bigdog,

If you won't consider supercharger but think a new American truck is the answer than how much do you think that would cost you to get a new truck in comparison to the supercharger?
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Old 04-19-2003, 07:57 PM
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A set of headers should help
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Old 04-19-2003, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by v8Toilet
bigdog,

If you won't consider supercharger but think a new American truck is the answer than how much do you think that would cost you to get a new truck in comparison to the supercharger?
Good point, except I would hit the rather soft market of full size sport Utes. They are giving away Tahoe's in Texas. Friend just bought one on ebay, $9,200 for a 98 with 80k miles loaded. Perfect and loaded too.

On the other hand, I just compared a Tahoe (98) and my truck pulling my boat (4k pounds plus big ol' trailer and 50 gallons of fuel) and there was almost no difference except on the extreme bottom end.

I did your pulse mod and it really did feel like it pulled better from a stand still. I am thinking the spintech is for me, as well as perhaps a set of headers. Anyone try the JBA's from this site? AEM said they will an intake kit by end of the month, and they post dyno numbers, just like v8toilet!!
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Old 04-20-2003, 06:49 AM
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you like that one huh ricqik!!!
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Old 04-20-2003, 10:41 AM
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Oh I forgot, it's a dakota, it can do anything. Our tundra's can't pull that, it's too heavy for a toyota.
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Old 04-20-2003, 11:58 AM
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You guys mention a gear change, who make a lower Tundra gear right now ?
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