You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Tickin' Tundra", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Originally posted by Toy TundraToyota fully acknowledges the sound is there and goes away when warmed up and also claims that this will not affect the truck perfomance or durability.
However, once a prospective buyer/repeat buyer hears this noise and Toyota's claim that its normal, it affects the buyer's decision to purchase a Tundra. Don't get me wrong - love the truck, but this piston slap noise is a problem and needs to be fixed.
I think they should compensate us for the loss of value that has occurred due to the engine noise. If we sold these to some other unsuspecting SOB, we would probably get sued when they hear what it sounds like as they start it up the next morning!
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
I just bought a 2002- and I hear very slight ticking for about 1 minute during start up.
Im guessing that the pistons have a pretty high silicon content and expand a certain amount when the engine reaches operating temperature. The bore of the cylinder probably takes this into account. Nothing to worry about.
quote: I just bought a 2002- and I hear very slight ticking for about 1 minute during start up. Im guessing that the pistons have a pretty high silicon content and expand a certain amount when the engine reaches operating temperature. The bore of the cylinder probably takes this into account. Nothing to worry about.
I think everyone's sounded pretty good when it was new. After you get a few miles on it, you may change your mind.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
Just my .02 here, but having come from the cloder climates of Maine (WISH I WERE BACK HOME!!) it's been my experience that science and physics RULES no matter what the cost, age, or perceived value of your mostly metal engine. I've had an old Caprice with 200K that will "tick tick tick" in the early morning cold weather--I've had a brand new engines in all sorts of applications that do the same. Physics my friends...physics.
My guess is that the tolerances for the majority of vehicles built today are designed to operate primarily in the 50-70 degree ambient air temps. That said, anything outside those temperature tolerances for which the primary pieces, pistons, rings, etc etc were constructed for are going to have an effect on the materials in which they were made....reagrdless of how much you "paid" for your truck. This is "normal". True, while the specified tolerances in design and engineering should be exactly the same quality throughout each product, the fact remains that the environment has a great effect on our vehicles....from forge to following traffic. Perhaps those of you experienceing these "excessive" problems merely have an engine that was bored and polished by a machine that was located under an A/C vent in the factory during the summer....or maybe yours was created under the heater during the winter months...the actual machine that MAKES the parts could have been operating in a slightly higher/lower ambient temperature than the rest of the engine...thereby inadvertently creating pieces that are on the thosusandths of an inch out of the "norm" with other parts....
add all the "margins of errors" over the aggregate, and voila, an engine is produced that ticks a little louder than "the norm".....given all the insane amount of variables to consider....the ticking thus becomes "the norm".
But I digress...
__________________
2004 Pontiac GTO
2005 Dodge Magnum Special Edition SXT
1991 Honda Nighthawk 750
1987 4Runner
My "ticking" has got worse. It sounds like I have a sprinkler system under my hood. The ticking is coming from the driver side and no ticking from the passenger side.
Mine sounds like a ford powerstroke during the winter, silent during the summer. I want to put a note in the glove compartment for the next owner that says "cold morning diesel noise is normal"
I guess I could put in a couple of the service sheets from when the truck had less than 1000 miles when the dealer said they could not replicate the problem, then again at 30K that they could not find any abnormal noises when cold. Despite the fact that at 30K the right manifold was leaking too.
__________________
2000 4x4 LTD AC Sunfire Red - Sold w/ 200K
2005 4x4 LTD AC Phantom grey w/ dark grey - Sold w/ 20K
Alpine CDA-9835, W/ KCA-420i, Focal 165KP front, Focal 165V Rear speakers. powered by 2 MMats SQ2150 amps. Alpine MRD-M501 powering a JL Stealthbox with Infinity Perfect 10D VQ
Sound deadened everything with Cascade VB2HD, and Dynamat Extreme
2005 G35 Sedan 6MT - Returned due to paint work on a 'new' car.
2006 G35 Sedan 6MT - all stock. Where do I hook up the trailer and where's the bass?
I too have the same problem. Like some of you, if mine even sits for a bit, even when warm, it slaps for a short time. How does this not effect performance?
What really frosts my a*% is the fact that I traded in an 01 Chevy, with piston slap, for my Tundra
I thought my 03 had a cracked manifold when I got it (Decemer 03), but after talking with a buddy who is a mechanic, I moved the engine ground strap from here http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photo...re_002-med.jpg
and the tick went away for the most part because the firewall was being an amplifier to pour the sound into the cab. If you listen closely, the sound seems like it's coming right from the inside of the dash behind the stereo.
I also think it's worth mentioning that since my first oil change at 1500 miles, when I switched to Mobil 1 and a Fram filter and have been using them since, that I have been hearing a lot of valve chatter when I started the truck.
I did a bit of investigating and found the Fram filter to be rated very poorly among other filters and found a few threads where bad filters caused a lot of valve noise at startup (pleasant thought huh....). So I switched to a Pure One filter from Purolator and the noise went away and the engine is quiet as a mouse.
I also think it's worth mentioning that since my first oil change at 1500 miles, when I switched to Mobil 1 and a Fram filter and have been using them since, that I have been hearing a lot of valve chatter when I started the truck.
I did a bit of investigating and found the Fram filter to be rated very poorly among other filters and found a few threads where bad filters caused a lot of valve noise at startup (pleasant thought huh....). So I switched to a Pure One filter from Purolator and the noise went away and the engine is quiet as a mouse.
I don't know if it has anything to do with it or not, but I was aware that Fram filters were pretty much regarded as crap before I bought my '03 Tundra. So, I've used Mobil 1 10W-30 and a #102 filter in it from new. I've got over 16K on it now, and I've never heard any ticking upon startup, cold or hot. I usually sit and wait for the engine revs to dip below 1K before I start out, too.
I don't know if it has anything to do with it or not, but I was aware that Fram filters were pretty much regarded as crap before I bought my '03 Tundra. So, I've used Mobil 1 10W-30 and a #102 filter in it from new. I've got over 16K on it now, and I've never heard any ticking upon startup, cold or hot. I usually sit and wait for the engine revs to dip below 1K before I start out, too.
Yes, you are right. Fram is pretty much a waste of material. Unfortunately, I didn't know that until I had problems with one. I've also used them in my wife's Acura for the past year and switching to a different filter, reduced engine noise in that car as well. It's sad that a product like this is allowed on the market.
Yes, you are right. Fram is pretty much a waste of material. Unfortunately, I didn't know that until I had problems with one. I've also used them in my wife's Acura for the past year and switching to a different filter, reduced engine noise in that car as well. It's sad that a product like this is allowed on the market.
The story I heard is that Fram succumbed to pressure from Wal Mart to meet a lower price point for their filters, if they wanted to be able to sell them on Wal Mart shelves. To do this, they apparently had to cheapen the internals significantly. I guess it makes sense, although one can find Mobil 1 oil at Wal Mart, Mobil 1 filters are conspicuously absent.
I also think it's worth mentioning that since my first oil change at 1500 miles, when I switched to Mobil 1 and a Fram filter and have been using them since, that I have been hearing a lot of valve chatter when I started the truck.
I did a bit of investigating and found the Fram filter to be rated very poorly among other filters and found a few threads where bad filters caused a lot of valve noise at startup (pleasant thought huh....). So I switched to a Pure One filter from Purolator and the noise went away and the engine is quiet as a mouse.
Yes, but does that inner fender panel have a good ground itself? What about that bracket with the rubber mount? Make sure you aren't trying to ground through the rubber. I'll have to look at mine, because I can faintly hear the same tick from inside through the dash.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!