You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Differential Fluid Change", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I have 32K miles and I think it's time to change out the diff fluid. Someone please post how and what fluid, preferably synthetic Mobil1, to use. I appreciate your help.
I don't remember exactly what fluid to put in, but the autozone told me what they had and that it was okay to use... It's really simple to drain the fluid, you simply unbolt the drain plug on the bottom of the diff, I think it's like an 1" or so, so have a good tool set, and then let it drain... you may want to put a jack opposite the hole to facilitate draining... When done, put the plug back in and fill with diff fluid from the middle/top plug, you should put fluid in until you can feel the fluid in the hole, put that plug back in and you are done!
__________________
2000 Tundra
4x4
6spd
v6
285 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Donahoe Racing Coilovers
Total Chaos UCA's
arb bumper
12000lb warn w/ amsteel line
optima batt, 130amp alternator, KC daylighters
Poly steering bushings
custom long travel swaybar links
HAM: KI4RXK google me! www.gaprs.net
Originally posted by Jwitz
I don't remember exactly what fluid to put in, but the autozone told me what they had and that it was okay to use... It's really simple to drain the fluid, you simply unbolt the drain plug on the bottom of the diff, I think it's like an 1" or so, so have a good tool set, and then let it drain... you may want to put a jack opposite the hole to facilitate draining... When done, put the plug back in and fill with diff fluid from the middle/top plug, you should put fluid in until you can feel the fluid in the hole, put that plug back in and you are done!
Make certain you can loosen the fill plug. Do this before you drain the fluid or you might catch yourself thumbing a ride for tools, or worse, having it towed.
Mobil 1 syn-75w90. When you change the rear diff. jack up the driver side a little. The drain plug is off center and not on the very bottom of the rear end. Jacking it up will let more of the old fluid drain out. Lower it before you replace the plug and refill. Cant remember the socket size, use a LONG breakover bar, the plugs may be tight. CJ noted that you should take the fill plug out before the drain plug. Several people have taken the drain out first and loss all the fluid and couldnt get the fill off to put it back in Simple job --only took a few minutes. Good luck---Buzzard
Originally posted by Tundra88
Buzzard
Thanks for the advice on the fill plug. Is the Mobil 1 OK to use with the factory LSD? Any additional additives needed?
Doug
From what I understand, it is okay.
As others have said, that breakover bar really helps. If you really want, you could slip a small metal pipe over your ratchet handle to elongate like a breakover bar and give a little more torque.
Also, although every re-uses theirs, I like to get new washers for the plugs, they aren't that expensive and offer piece of mind
Originally posted by Ernesto
Has anyone used the Mobil1 product for the differential?
Yes, many here have replaced the differential fluid with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W90, myself included. I put it in both the front and rear differentials and the transfer case on my 4x4. The rear differntial and the transfer case are easy to change. The front differential requires a little more effort due to its difficult location. I used an outboard motor lower unit gear lube pump to pump the fluid into the front differential. Others have used a long piece of tubing routed down from the engine compartment. If I remember correctly, the front differential fill and drain plugs require a 10mm allen wrench.
I just changed mine and my wifes four runner. It seems crazy that the front and transfer case take 75w-90. You can find the mobile 1 synthetic but no 90w for the rear. I read on tacomaterritory that the 75w-90 may be to thin and leak past the axle seals. Although people seem to have no problem using it, it is odd that toyota specified 90w. I just put some "Redline Shockproof" oil in both diffs and transfer case. The stuff on paper looks fantastic. It is a 75w-250. Thats no misprint. It's ability to withstand stress and shock is fantastic. The stuff is pink and really clings to the gears. In reality my truck shifts into and out of four wheel drive much better then before. Cost wise it is about the same as the other synthetics (around $1.00 more a quart then Mobile 1. Check out redlines web site. No I do not have anything to do with redline, just looking for the best possible stuff vs. price.
Originally posted by calitundra
I just changed mine and my wifes four runner. It seems crazy that the front and transfer case take 75w-90. You can find the mobile 1 synthetic but no 90w for the rear. I read on tacomaterritory that the 75w-90 may be to thin and leak past the axle seals.
Synthetic fluids/lube will not be the cause of a leak, however, if your vehicle currently leaks fluid, switching to a synthetic will normally aggravate the leak. 75w/90 synthetic is also recommended for the rear differential. I only know about Amsoil, but their synthetic gear lubes, irregardless of weight, is formulated to be totally compatible with all LSD's so you don't have to add any special fluids if you use their synthetic gear lubes.
Quote:
Originally posted by calitundra
I just put some "Redline Shockproof" oil in both diffs and transfer case. The stuff on paper looks fantastic. It is a 75w-250. Thats no misprint. It's ability to withstand stress and shock is fantastic. The stuff is pink and really clings to the gears. In reality my truck shifts into and out of four wheel drive much better then before. Cost wise it is about the same as the other synthetics (around $1.00 more a quart then Mobile 1. Check out redlines web site. No I do not have anything to do with redline, just looking for the best possible stuff vs. price.
I would think the 75w/90 synthetic is the recommended fluid for a light duty pickup. Nothing wrong with using 75w/250 but I think 75w/250 is probably marketed for heavier duty equipment and hot climates.
Originally posted by calitundra
I just changed mine and my wifes four runner. It seems crazy that the front and transfer case take 75w-90. You can find the mobile 1 synthetic but no 90w for the rear. I read on tacomaterritory that the 75w-90 may be to thin and leak past the axle seals. Although people seem to have no problem using it, it is odd that toyota specified 90w. I just put some "Redline Shockproof" oil in both diffs and transfer case. The stuff on paper looks fantastic. It is a 75w-250. Thats no misprint. It's ability to withstand stress and shock is fantastic. The stuff is pink and really clings to the gears. In reality my truck shifts into and out of four wheel drive much better then before. Cost wise it is about the same as the other synthetics (around $1.00 more a quart then Mobile 1. Check out redlines web site. No I do not have anything to do with redline, just looking for the best possible stuff vs. price.
It seems to me that using SAE250 gear oil will provide very poor lubrication. It won't flow into the places it needs to be the way the gear engineers designed. They specified 90 wt. gear oil for a reason.
In any case, you went backward. Redline says that this gear oil is so good that you can use a lower viscosity oil to provide the same protection: " The cushioning effect of the ShockProofTM chemistry allows the use of one of the lighter viscosities in many performance applications with little sacrifice in durability."
I used Amsoil 75W90 gear oil in my differentials and transfer case. On the drive to warm things up before the change, the differential felt normally warm to the touch. After the change, I took the same drive and again felt the diff. It was barely warm. Synthetics do work well. I was looking for the 80W-90 that Toyota recommends, but the Amsoil tech department suggested their Series 2000 75W-90. http://www.amsoil.com/products/tgr.html
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
Originally posted by Tundra88
Buzzard
Thanks for the advice on the fill plug. Is the Mobil 1 OK to use with the factory LSD? Any additional additives needed?
Doug
It was written (before the crash) that if you use the Mobil 1 in the quart bottles it has the LDS additive in it. If you buy it in bulk you have to add it. If memory serves me my rear diff took 4 quarts (about $5.00 a quart). I have a 4x2 so I cant speak to the front---Buzz
Originally posted by KLS
It seems to me that using SAE250 gear oil will provide very poor lubrication. It won't flow into the places it needs to be the way the gear engineers designed. They specified 90 wt. gear oil for a reason.
I used Amsoil 75W90 gear oil in my differentials and transfer case. On the drive to warm things up before the change, the differential felt normally warm to the touch. After the change, I took the same drive and again felt the diff. It was barely warm. Synthetics do work well. I was looking for the 80W-90 that Toyota recommends, but the Amsoil tech department suggested their Series 2000 75W-90. http://www.amsoil.com/products/tgr.html
Ken
You can use a 75W-90 gear oil where an 80W-90 oil is recommended and where a 90W oil is recommended without any ill effects. The only difference between these viscosity ratings is the cold viscosity -- they are all 90 weight oils during normal operation. The added benefit of a 75W-90 is better cold-weather performance and better fuel economy.
FWIW, anyone that wants a premium synthetic gear oil but doesn't feel the need for the ultimate (AMSOIL Series 2000) can opt for the original line 75W-90 or 80W-90 gear oil.
For around $4 you can get a hand pump that attaches to your gear oil container (quart, gallon, whatever) at your local auto parts store. They work like a charm, and it's easier to stop pumping when you get a trickle out of the fill plug hole than it is to stop the flow already in a long fill hose and funnel... When you're done store it in a Zip-Lock freezer bag until you need it again.
Also, friction modifiers 'can' be used with any of the AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes, but are not necessary regardless of the size of container you purchase it in.
Finally, any time you change the fluid in a limited slip differential you should drive in 8 - 10 tight figure-eight patterns to thoroughly mix the new oil throughout the differential.
~ Fred
__________________
"Beware he who would deny you access to information, for in his heart he dreams himself your master."
I put Mobil 1 in my rear diff about 8K miles ago. Haven't noticed any difference. I'll open the rear diff soon to install the new locker coming in. I don't expect anything abnormal.
Well I stand corrected. I emailed redline and they said to use the 70w-90 gear oil. I am never going to trust those guys at the speed shop again. They told me to use the shockproof oil. Oh well live and learn. Looks like I will be changing my gear oil again and dumping all that good synthectic.....
Differential Fluid Change
Re: Differential Fluid Change
Simple job --only took a few minutes. Good luck---Buzzard
