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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Throttle Position Sensor", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Give us a little more detail. What is wrong? Why would you think there is a problem with your Throtle Position Sensor? If your Check Engine light is on, why not have the stored codes read?
Sorry. My check engine light is not on. I do have a code scanner and I have not scanned my truck yet. I was reading other posts how other owners felt like there truck was sluggish. Some owner's sensor actually failed. After the replacement they felt like they regained there orignal feeling of power. My truck has been feeling sluggish lately. I thought somehow if I could test the sensor to see if I can improve this it maybe better. Just wondering what things to look for when testing.
Originally posted by Tundra Thunder Sorry. My check engine light is not on. I do have a code scanner and I have not scanned my truck yet. I was reading other posts how other owners felt like there truck was sluggish. Some owner's sensor actually failed. After the replacement they felt like they regained there orignal feeling of power. My truck has been feeling sluggish lately. I thought somehow if I could test the sensor to see if I can improve this it maybe better. Just wondering what things to look for when testing.
How many miles do you have on your truck??? Have you tried cleaning your throttle body. I cleaned mine at 50,000 mi and it made a drastic improvement in performance. I was amazed at how much carbon build up there was. As far as the throttle, my stretched out after about 30,000 mi (had over 3/16" of play) so I tighted it back up at the adjuster at the throttle body so that it had about 1/16" of play, believe it or not it made a pretty big difference in throttle response and overall accel. Hope that helps.
Originally posted by blderman How many miles do you have on your truck??? Have you tried cleaning your throttle body. I cleaned mine at 50,000 mi and it made a drastic improvement in performance. I was amazed at how much carbon build up there was. As far as the throttle, my stretched out after about 30,000 mi (had over 3/16" of play) so I tighted it back up at the adjuster at the throttle body so that it had about 1/16" of play, believe it or not it made a pretty big difference in throttle response and overall accel. Hope that helps.
Jason
I would like to do what you did. I have 65000 miles on my truck. I have never cleaned the throttle body. What do you use to do that? How do you do that?
Also how do you tighten the adjuster at the throttle body so that there is about 1/16" of play?
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Originally posted by Tundra Thunder I would like to do what you did. I have 65000 miles on my truck. I have never cleaned the throttle body. What do you use to do that? How do you do that?
Also how do you tighten the adjuster at the throttle body so that there is about 1/16" of play?
Thanks
Just go get a bottle of Carb Cleaner and Some shop towels. You'll need to remove the air intake from the throttle body and I also removed the throttle body itself to make access easier but that wasn't absolutely neccessary. Basically what you want to to do is dampen the towel with the cleaner and clean the entire throttle body, butterfly valve and all. Also make sure that you are opening the valve and getting behind it too. I was amazed how much carbon there was I think I completely covered two 12x12 towels. Most of it comes of easily but some will probably take a little bit of rubbing. You'll want to tighten your cable at the same time, when you get everything taken apart you will see the throttle cable and the adjuster. I simply adjusted mine till there was 1/16 of free play and also made sure that it was not so tight that it was affecting the idle. You will be able to hear the difference when you are done. When driving around I can hear the air "whistling" inside the intake again and your power will be back to "new" again, it's actually pretty amazing what a difference such a small task makes. Hope this helps you.
Originally posted by blderman Just go get a bottle of Carb Cleaner and Some shop towels. You'll need to remove the air intake from the throttle body and I also removed the throttle body itself to make access easier but that wasn't absolutely neccessary. Basically what you want to to do is dampen the towel with the cleaner and clean the entire throttle body, butterfly valve and all. Also make sure that you are opening the valve and getting behind it too. I was amazed how much carbon there was I think I completely covered two 12x12 towels. Most of it comes of easily but some will probably take a little bit of rubbing. You'll want to tighten your cable at the same time, when you get everything taken apart you will see the throttle cable and the adjuster. I simply adjusted mine till there was 1/16 of free play and also made sure that it was not so tight that it was affecting the idle. You will be able to hear the difference when you are done. When driving around I can hear the air "whistling" inside the intake again and your power will be back to "new" again, it's actually pretty amazing what a difference such a small task makes. Hope this helps you.
I just bought an X ray ODB scanner. I was playing with it and during full out accelleration I noticed the throtle position sensor would max out at 80%. I then hooked it up to my wifes 99 runner and found it only read 75%. Do you think the cable stretched? Also on another tread people were talking about gas milage, I average around 210 miles to the tank. It all seemed to start when I added the air box mod. I have changed plugs with no success. I can get the readings for air temp, vol o2 sensor voltage etc. etc. I just don't know what they sould all be. I am suppose to be able to attach to a computer so once I get it figured out I will let you guys know. If anyone else is so knowledgable on the subject and is in the central valley and wants to work on our trucks maybe we can get togeather.
the ECM limits the throttle opening. on my 03 V8, the possible throttle voltage range is 0.4 - 4.8V(8-96%). voltage will never be zero on a running engine, because the throttle plate has to be open a little for air. on the V6, the possible range is 0.35-3.75V(7-75%). the ECM is detuned from the factory, not allowing 5V(100% opening).
with the accelerator pedal pressed down all the way(engine off), my max throttle voltage is around 4.2V(84%). keep in mind that the Tundra has a throttle-by-wire system. the accelerator pedal does not directly control the throttle opening. the ECM interprets the accelerator pedal and rpm/load values and calculates the 'proper throttle amount' which it applies to the throttle actuator motor. so the pedal is telling the ECM 100%, but ECM tells throttle motor 84%.
for your previous-gen 4runner(V6), 75% seems correct, as it does not have throttle-by-wire. the 80% you are experiencing is because the ECM deems that 96% is not necessary nor safe, and is limiting you to 80%.
well, the best way to get full throttle would be to reprogram the ECM code.
but since we don't have access to that, an interceptor could possibly work. the interceptor could sit between the ECM and throttle control motor and 'boost' the signal to achieve 100% opening. although, it may generate an error with the ECM, as it is not supposed to be over 75%. according to the manual, anything over 80% will generate an error code.
the 4% difference is not too bad for those of us with V8, it may not be worthwhile to juice up the V8 throttle. you V6 owners are missing 25% of the throttle's potential, so it could be worth looking into. if you have access to a multimeter and obd scanner, get some readings from the throttle motor's wires and note what the throttle position sensor value is.
M+ green, M- red
CL+ yellow, CL- blue
you could build a basic circuit to increase the current progressively, or perhaps a trigger to activate 100% temporarily(maybe in concert with nitrous oxide). you would probably have to remap the air/fuel and spark too. if you got the signal booster to work, it may be beyond the ECM's normal operating limits.
if i had a v6 to play with, i might try building this. but good luck if you try this.
Just go get a bottle of Carb Cleaner and Some shop towels. You'll need to remove the air intake from the throttle body and I also removed the throttle body itself to make access easier but that wasn't absolutely neccessary. Basically what you want to to do is dampen the towel with the cleaner and clean the entire throttle body, butterfly valve and all. Also make sure that you are opening the valve and getting behind it too. I was amazed how much carbon there was I think I completely covered two 12x12 towels. Most of it comes of easily but some will probably take a little bit of rubbing. You'll want to tighten your cable at the same time, when you get everything taken apart you will see the throttle cable and the adjuster. I simply adjusted mine till there was 1/16 of free play and also made sure that it was not so tight that it was affecting the idle. You will be able to hear the difference when you are done. When driving around I can hear the air "whistling" inside the intake again and your power will be back to "new" again, it's actually pretty amazing what a difference such a small task makes. Hope this helps you.
Jason
I called my dealership this morning and asked him about cleaning the throttle body. He said NOT to use carb cleaner, use throttle body cleaner. He said that because our engines are aluminum, they have a coating on them. Aluminum is pores. Carb cleaner is a strong slovent that can strip off this coating.
I don't know if what he said is true but for the same cost I'll just get the right stuff.
I called my dealership this morning and asked him about cleaning the throttle body. He said NOT to use carb cleaner, use throttle body cleaner. He said that because our engines are aluminum, they have a coating on them. Aluminum is pores. Carb cleaner is a strong slovent that can strip off this coating.
I don't know if what he said is true but for the same cost I'll just get the right stuff.
-DJJ
that doesn't make sense. i use carburetor or brake cleaner to clean my aluminum carburetors and brass jets. never had any problems. even if the aluminum is anodized, the cleaner solvent will not eat away the coating. just don't try using oven cleaner on aluminum!
__________________
I finish what the factory started...
yeah, i've heard variations on this too...dunno if one's a particular type of solvent or not, but i do remember hearing that the chemicals need to be different to properly mix with the fuel during combustion so the cleaner is properly removed from the engine, and the necessary chemicals are different for a carbuerated and fuel injected engine. dunno which explanation so far is correct, but it sounds like it's all either bs or there's a good reason but everyone's story is a little different (operator?).
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Throttle Position Sensor
Linear Mode
