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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Engine Noise Cold", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
When engine is cold I can hear a ticking like noise when under acceleration.It seems to go away completely after a mile or so. I suspect an exhaust leak.Possible a cracked manifold.
Anyone have the same problem? If so did you have it looked at and repaired? Are there any TSB on this subject?
A cracked exhaust header would be my guess as well. It seems a number of people have had this problem. No TSB's that I'm aware of, just need to replace the exhaust headers. Good opportunity to upgrade to an aftermarket header.
__________________
Genthar
Rhino Lining, Waag one piece grille guard and wheel to wheel nerf bars, 3M Xpel on headlights, front corner lights, and foglights, Valentine One radar detector, XM Satellite radio, Navigon 7100 GPS, Lightforce 240 Blitz aux lights, Aux. reverse lights.
AEM Brute force intake, courtesy of AEM Power and TundraSolutions.com
Teamwest Coilovers, Camburg Upper A arms, Daystar Steering Rack Bushings, Total Chaos Diff Drop spacer, JBA Headers, Y-Pipe, and EVOL exhaust.
My 2001 ticks but noticed that when I changed oil to 10-30 mobil 1 from 0-30 tick is not as loud and goes away quicker. dealer said all tundras make noise when cold. Tick was there when using 5-30 as well.
I'm using 0-40 wt. Mobil 1 Synthetic oil after my first change and no ticking and oil pressure stays above the lower line on the gauge....
You can use it in winter and summer heat and it's rated "Fuel Conserving" . Alan
Took it to the dealer Monday
Going to replace both headers.
That's just @#%&*% great for a new truck with 11,000 miles on it
I'm Jacked
It'll never be the same
I think they have to pull the engine out.
Dam it
Ohh what a feeling.........I can get that in prison for free!
Originally posted by batlwagon Took it to the dealer Monday
Going to replace both headers.
That's just @#%&*% great for a new truck with 11,000 miles on it
I'm Jacked
It'll never be the same
I think they have to pull the engine out.
Dam it
Ohh what a feeling.........I can get that in prison for free!
Shouldn't really be a problem. They don't have to yank the engine to replace it, though I don't know what their service manual calls for. Plenty of people have replaced theirs without pulling the engine. And no, it'll never be the same, it'll be better because the ticking will be gone.
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Genthar
Rhino Lining, Waag one piece grille guard and wheel to wheel nerf bars, 3M Xpel on headlights, front corner lights, and foglights, Valentine One radar detector, XM Satellite radio, Navigon 7100 GPS, Lightforce 240 Blitz aux lights, Aux. reverse lights.
AEM Brute force intake, courtesy of AEM Power and TundraSolutions.com
Teamwest Coilovers, Camburg Upper A arms, Daystar Steering Rack Bushings, Total Chaos Diff Drop spacer, JBA Headers, Y-Pipe, and EVOL exhaust.
When engine is cold I can hear a ticking like noise when under acceleration.It seems to go away completely after a mile or so. I suspect an exhaust leak.Possible a cracked manifold.
Anyone have the same problem? If so did you have it looked at and repaired? Are there any TSB on this subject?
2001 Tundra
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
batl
Looks like the dealer already diagnosed the problem, however fuel injectors have a habit of making ticking sounds when they are cold too....
I read somewhere that the Toyota overhead cam design causes this "ticking" until the oil gets dispersed through the engine? I don't know if this is true. Is there a way to check for a cracked header before I take it to the dealer?
Is there a way to check for a cracked header before I take it to the dealer?
With the truck cold, listen under the front wheel well on each side while you have someone start it up and put it in drive with the brakes on. With the brakes held firmly, have them give it some gas. If the manifolds are cracked, you should be able to hear the leak under those conditions. Just to be sure, I put a length of small diameter hose up into the area by the manifold flanges and listened at the other end. I found my leak at the front flange on the driver's side. The truck had about 27K on it at the time. JBA makes a good cure for the cracked manifolds.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
Originally posted by Dude Boy JBA makes a good cure for the cracked manifolds.
true !
...and taking it to the dealer to have them replace the manis will get those bolts loosened for ya so it's easier to install the JBAs (or whichever header you went with).
Dropped the truck off Wendsday night (07/16/03), they gave me a loaner to drive. When I got home from work (2:30 pm EST) there was a message on my machine that my truck was done .
I picked it up , did a walk around, and seeing no damage to paint ,ect. I left.
It's been around 5 day's now and the noise is gone , no ill effects to the truck and I am Happy.
I must apologize for my previous Flaming.
I am a mechanic, have been for 20+ years , I mostly work on heavy equipment, tractor trailers , backhoes , wheel loaders, paving equipment. I work for the local municipality.I have worked on scores of light vehicles also including my own, friends? and family.I drove a 78 olds 98 for 15 years due to my tender loving care. I bought the olds for $150.00 ,(put a timing chain , camshaft, lifters and rebuilt the carb and did ordinary stuff over the years).
My b!t(h is , I'm tired, this is the first vehicle I've bought brand new, I'm 41.I don't want to come home and work on any vehicles. I bought this Toyota figuring there suppose to be high quality ,and I should get some great mileage from this truck I should'nt have to touch it except for the regular mantinence.
2 years in, with 11,500, I have, "Warped Manifolds". As you can see I don't put alot of miles on, and yes I bought the extended warranty , 6 years, but I wanted to keep this truck. I don't want to put headers on , I don't want to debadge it , I don't want to do anything to it. I just want to drive it and do as little as possible to it. I certainly do not want to be putting headers on it every two years after it's out of warranty!
$78.00 an hour labor : 10.4 hours Labor: Plus Parts! :2003 Prices!