toyota echo 2001 check engine light - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

irahs · #1 (**permalink**) 06-13-2009, 09:51 PM

Hello:
I am a new member and so excited that this forum is available to help the helpless, like me.
I was driving on the Parkway and my check engine light came on. Was too far from Toyota dealer. Went to Autozone and got this diagnostic code PO440. He tightened my gas cap. Said I need to turn it around to hear the click three times. He did that. My light is now off. Can't imagine how much the dealer would have charged me. What do you think? Was the diagnostic at Autozone correct? Please someone respond and help me.
Thanks

mustang67408 · #2 (**permalink**) 06-15-2009, 06:06 PM

Yes, it could have been the gas cap being loose. Only time will tell if the check engine light will come on again. The gas cap is one of many items that will set that code.
Glad it was an easy fix, if it does come back, please post and we can advise on other things that may be the casue.
Dealership should have been around $50 for a diagnostichceck with the toyota scan tool/toyota evaprative tester and a smoke machine.

irahs · #3 (**permalink**) 06-15-2009, 08:49 PM

It's me again.
It came on again! Any suggestions??? I'm thinking of dropping it off at the dealer on my way to work in the morning because I need the car. Hope they are honest with me.
I'd really appreciate your input.
Thanks

mustang67408 · #4 (**permalink**) 06-16-2009, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by irahs

It's me again.
It came on again! Any suggestions??? I'm thinking of dropping it off at the dealer on my way to work in the morning because I need the car. Hope they are honest with me.
I'd really appreciate your input.
Thanks

If I had to make an educated guess and the code is a P0440, I'd say it is the ORVR.
This is a valve in the top of the fuel tank and they crack. They look like the pictures I have attached. It is very common here on the west coast for these to crack on echos/corrollas/camry/siennas and 4 runners.
We use a Toyota evap system pressure tester to check these valves. The evap tester pressurises the evap system and then you can spray some soapy water on the valve and it will bubble from the crack where it is loosing pressure.
Let us know what they find.
Make sure the vacuum line to the VSV Purge valve on the air filter housing is plugged in correctly too.

irahs · #5 (**permalink**) 06-16-2009, 12:04 PM

Thanks Mustang 67408:

The dealer told me just now that the code is 440. They couldn't do the test they need to do because the fuel in the gas tank needs to be less than 1/2 full. He suggested that I drive around and wait for my tank which is 3/4 full to get below 1/2 and then bring it back. He said it's safe to drive with it this way. He cleared the check engine light and tell him if it comes back on....
IF it's what you think, how much should the entire job... testing and repair cost?

I value your opinion... What do you think???

Thanks again...

mustang67408 · #6 (**permalink**) 06-16-2009, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by irahs

Thanks Mustang 67408:

The dealer told me just now that the code is 440. They couldn't do the test they need to do because the fuel in the gas tank needs to be less than 1/2 full. He suggested that I drive around and wait for my tank which is 3/4 full to get below 1/2 and then bring it back. He said it's safe to drive with it this way. He cleared the check engine light and tell him if it comes back on....
I value your opinion... What do you think???

Thanks again...

He is mistaken, the test can beperformed between 1/4 and 3/4 full as per the toyota directions. (see attachment)
A P0440 is a VAPOR LEAK, that means fuel vapor...........

I wouldnt if it were me.

The ORVR is APPROX. $250 total to replace

irahs · #7 (**permalink**) 06-19-2009, 09:44 PM

Mustang:

Thanks for all the info you've given me. I took my car to the dealer when the tank went under 3/4 gas full but more than 1/2. His words were "to be honest if the check engine light is not on - don't worry about it." He said that they tightened up something there and he wouldn't worry about it unless the light came back on.
So, I said thanks and went on to work.
What do you think?

mustang67408 · #8 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 09:20 AM

You have all my options, without the vehcile infront of me to do tests, everything is a guesstimate. IMO they are blowing smoke and have no idea whats going on, and I thought you found a good dealer

. "THEY TIGHTENED SOMETHING"????? what does that mean?

The evap system is sealed,or supposed to be, there is nothing to tighten............if the light came on, then there is a leak. The light was cleared and they tightened something???

If the light comes back on..find another dealer. If it doesnt, then theres not much else to say

rahul1701 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 08:29 PM

Hey Mustang,

I have been reading quite a few posts where I have seen replies from you. I must say that you are one of the most helpful people that one can come across. Very patient with novice drivers, drivers like me who couldn't tell an air filter from an oil filter, and so on. Thank you so much for all your help. Good people like you make such forums worthwhile to visit. An educated help is anyday better than 20 people giving guestimates.

Now, to my problem. I have a similar issue (Check engine light) on my Toyota Echo 2002. Now, let me give you a brief background. I bought this car on Friday, June 26 from an individual. The car was in great shape (at least externally with new tyres, a new battery, pristine interiors and exteriors). I had no reason to doubt the buyer with regards to his proclaimed condition of the car. I drove the car around since Friday till today, Wednesday morning without any issues.

Today morning, suddenly I got the Check Engine light. Reading a lot of replies and posts in this forum on this issue, it seems that the gas cap (improper closure) can cause the light to glow. Now, I filled the gas on Tuesday night and drove for about 20 miles after with no issues. Today morning is when the light started glowing. Now, I must admit that I filled the gas up to the brim (forcibly after the automatic gas nozzle switched off). I'm not a car person and wouldn't know how to perform all the steps that are mentioned as solutions (clean air flow system, etc etc etc). What do you suggest is my best course of action? Dealer? I took the car to Firestone and they said that they would charge $79.99 just to check before they diagnose what the issue is and let me know how much it would cost. I walked out after saying thank you since I didn't believe there could be any big issue.

I have tried opening and re-closing the gas cap without any success.

Any help would be great appreciated. Thank you already in advance. I know that the solution that you provide would probably not be very different from the solutions provided in previous posts; however, I just am not confident opening the hood and doing something catastrophic to it.

Someone suggested removing the negative terminal of the battery, press the brake pedal for 10 seconds and that should reset the CHECK ENGINE light. Is that true?

Thanks
Rahul

mustang67408 · #10 (**permalink**) 07-02-2009, 09:23 AM

Rahul, Yes, you can disconnect the battery and the code should clear, you do not need to press the brake pedal.
If a gas cap is left loose and then tightened (like you did), it takes either approx 40 ignition "ON/OFF" cycles to reset this "IF" the ecu dtermines that the evaprative MONITORS pass their internal tests and that they "SET". This usually takes a cooling down proccess of over 8hrs (usually overnight works) to set the monitors. There are also specific dive patterns that have to be met.
Having stated all the mumbo jumbo, I recommend clearing the engine light. If the light comes back on, then have the code READ and either take it to the DEALER or post the code here, then we can advise from there. There are over 300+ reason for the check engine light to come on... the code points us in the correct direction.
I recommend the dealership because, I have a hard enough time keeping up with ALL TOYOTAS, how can the people at independant shops (Firestone/pep boys ect....) keep up with ALL VEhicles. They are working at those places and not the dealer for a reason. Yes, I am biased, but I have seen and experienced those places and how far off MOST of them lead people.
Let us know
Thanks

irahs · #11 (**permalink**) 07-02-2009, 04:28 PM

Hi Mustang:

This is Irahs -- the original person of this post with the Toyota Echo 2001. I finally got my fuel at the right level for them. they tested and said what seems similar to your conclusion. My mistake I should have printed your reply bcs I couldn't remember a single thing about your diagnosis except that I had visualized the pix of the valve you had posted. He told me the evaporative canister needs replacing. He described it as a little box and something about a baloon like thing or something like that in it. and then he said something about vacuum switching valve. He said to fix or replace the valve is 180 and the Evaporative Canister is 510. Total 690.

What do you think? Am I making a sense? He didn't have the parts so he said that he would order and fix tomorrow.
I value your opinion.

Thanks

mustang67408 · #12 (**permalink**) 07-02-2009, 06:25 PM

Since I have not personally tested the vehicle. I would expect that they should know what they are doing, so Let them fix it, but I would ask them for help on parts.
Pm sent

rahul1701 · #13 (**permalink**) 07-05-2009, 03:47 PM

Hey Mustang,

The overnight cooling down process did not work. So, I thought I would take it to the Toyota dealership to have them look at it. The person I dealt with there was kind enough to explain why, how and what these lights mean and glow. It was consistent with the stuff I have read on this forum. He brought out a small meter and plugged it in to the socket just beneath the dashboard where we have the lever that pops the hood open. He cleared the error and said that if it was the gas cap, then this should fix it and the light shouldn't glow again. However, if its some other leakage or other error, then it would come back up after driving 10-15 miles. So, far it hasn't come up again and I've driven about 30 miles or so since that.

The guy was nice and didn't charge a penny either for it.

Thank you again Mustang.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mustang67408

Rahul, Yes, you can disconnect the battery and the code should clear, you do not need to press the brake pedal.
If a gas cap is left loose and then tightened (like you did), it takes either approx 40 ignition "ON/OFF" cycles to reset this "IF" the ecu dtermines that the evaprative MONITORS pass their internal tests and that they "SET". This usually takes a cooling down proccess of over 8hrs (usually overnight works) to set the monitors. There are also specific dive patterns that have to be met.
Having stated all the mumbo jumbo, I recommend clearing the engine light. If the light comes back on, then have the code READ and either take it to the DEALER or post the code here, then we can advise from there. There are over 300+ reason for the check engine light to come on... the code points us in the correct direction.
I recommend the dealership because, I have a hard enough time keeping up with ALL TOYOTAS, how can the people at independant shops (Firestone/pep boys ect....) keep up with ALL VEhicles. They are working at those places and not the dealer for a reason. Yes, I am biased, but I have seen and experienced those places and how far off MOST of them lead people.
Let us know
Thanks