OK, I’ve been a lurker here for years, but now I need some help.
Had a rod start knocking in my wife’s Camry, I found a place that would install a rebuilt engine for a good price. When we got the car back I noticed it was using a lot of oil (about a quart every two weeks) I called the shop and they said it “was normal for a new engine to use oil during the break-in period”. I told them, no engine I had ever rebuilt had used anywhere near that much oil during break-in, but agreed to wait.
Six weeks and 1,500 miles later the engine was now using one quart a week. I called and they said bring it back in and they would take a look. After having the car for several days they called and said “the rings had failed” and they were going to replace the engine with another re-built engine.
Just got the car back yesterday and it seems fine and in fact it sounds better at startup than the first engine (it would rattle until it warmed up) but now I’m suspicious and don’t trust this shop.
I’m wondering if any of you out there have any suggestions as to how I could check to be sure they really put in a rebuilt engine and not just a re-painted used engine.
Also, what damage could result from running an engine that was burning that much oil, the CEL is on now stating “Low efficiency in Bank One” or something like that, could that be caused by this situation?
__________________
Hamilton
San Diego, Ca.
2006 Tundra DC 4X4 TRD, Bilstein 5100's front (2.5"), BFG 285/75/16 ATs on Stock rims w/2.25" spacers
2000 Camry LE
Damn dude sounds rough. But to be honest I dont know how to tell or not if an engine is rebuilt besides maybe the new parts in it. I guess u could take it to a trusted shop and see if they could take a look at it.
__________________
Tundra with a little lift and 33's
Pull a spark plug, look into the cylinder, and see if there is any carbon build-up on the top of the piston or the faces of the valves. If there is, then they didn't pull it apart. If it appears quite clean, then likely they did.
Simple...ask them to see the invoice for the "rebuilt" engine. Sounds to me like they are installing a junkyard engine. If they really are using rebuilt units, they should be able to tell you who their source is. For example, Jasper is a big rebuilder (at least here in the South).
DJ, that is an excellent suggestion (I knew I could count on you guys), I’ll see if I can find a bore scope I can borrow, we may have one at work.
And Shall36, if the cylinder isn’t clean, I’ll be taking your suggestion, only problem with that is I believe they do the rebuilding themselves. But I can still ask to see receipts for the parts.
__________________
Hamilton
San Diego, Ca.
2006 Tundra DC 4X4 TRD, Bilstein 5100's front (2.5"), BFG 285/75/16 ATs on Stock rims w/2.25" spacers
2000 Camry LE
If it's a V6,pull the plastic cover (if one exists) over the front coilpacks/plug wires. Is the valve cover grimey? Stuff written in yellow marker? Oil leaking between the valve cover and head? Junkyard engines aren't always the cleanest and they usually have yellow writing on a conspicuous spot for identifying purposes.
Cold rattle isn't good,sounds like a valve clearance problem.
__________________ Try SEARCHING before posting. Thanks!
No, it’s a four cylinder. And no, the engine is as clean as Kleenex, at least on the outside.
Good news is the “new” engine doesn’t make the rattle, in fact it sounds and runs good. I was thinking about having the oil analyzed at the first change, I’ve read here that the oil analysis can show evidence of break-in in a new engine or conversely, engine wear in an old one.
I’m still looking for a bore scope to see inside the cylinders, I’ll report back on the results.
__________________
Hamilton
San Diego, Ca.
2006 Tundra DC 4X4 TRD, Bilstein 5100's front (2.5"), BFG 285/75/16 ATs on Stock rims w/2.25" spacers
2000 Camry LE
Your low efficiency on bank 1 is a post O2 code. Most likely the cat is saturated with oil and is not firing up properly. It may clean itself out eventually, only time will tell if it will come back to life. Some extended hiway driving will help burn off the residue. You will need to clear the code at some point to see if you were successful ( ie no code re-occuring). The post O2 sensor can also cause this code if it was contaminated from oil. Again before spending alot of money, get some hiway miles on the car and see if it will burn clean. With a little luck you may be alright.
I was hoping someone would comment on this issue, my wife drove up to Huntington Beach last weekend to visit her folks, I’ll reset the code and see if it comes back. I hope you’re right.
As far as the engine goes, so far so good, engine is running good and not using oil. Still haven’t been able to acquire a bore scope so I think I am just going to pull a plug and try to shine a flashlight down there. I’ll post back when I have an update.
__________________
Hamilton
San Diego, Ca.
2006 Tundra DC 4X4 TRD, Bilstein 5100's front (2.5"), BFG 285/75/16 ATs on Stock rims w/2.25" spacers
2000 Camry LE
Well, I finally got the results of the Oil Analysis back, (see attached) as you can see, Blackstone says the engine definitely looks like it was rebuilt.
Thanks for all the help and advice you guys gave me,
__________________
Hamilton
San Diego, Ca.
2006 Tundra DC 4X4 TRD, Bilstein 5100's front (2.5"), BFG 285/75/16 ATs on Stock rims w/2.25" spacers
2000 Camry LE