You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "SSAutochrome Headers Installed - Great!!", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Those of you that have installed these, do the gaskets appear to be of good quality? Anybody had any trouble with them? Would a Tundra gasket from another manufacturer (header) work if you couldn't get one of their gaskets? I know the bolt holes would be the same but the tube openings might not be the same.
I would just like to have an extra set of gaskets to keep in case I ever need them. I will wait a couple of weeks and try to order an extra set and see what they say.
Thanks..
The gaskets for the headers are of good quality I'm sure an after market gasket would fit. The Y pipe I received came with no gaskets. I had Muffler brothers weld The Y Pipe in place. They were able to get the gaskets for the unions behind the cats the same day.
My new ssautochrome headers and y-pipe were shipped today. I ask them if I could get an extra set of gaskets. There email reply was that they didn't have any extra gaskets at this time.
Those of you that have installed these, do the gaskets appear to be of good quality? Anybody had any trouble with them? Would a Tundra gasket from another manufacturer (header) work if you couldn't get one of their gaskets? I know the bolt holes would be the same but the tube openings might not be the same.
I would just like to have an extra set of gaskets to keep in case I ever need them. I will wait a couple of weeks and try to order an extra set and see what they say.
Thanks..
I have about 6000 miles on the set i installed and no leaks yet.
what is trick to get a bolts under motor mounts, thanks
Suggested tools -
- 3/8 drive, 2 foot long extention
- 3/8 drive universal
- 3/8 drive #14 semi deep socket (about 1.25 inches long)
With the above, i was able to get through the sides of the motor mounts or up from the bottom.
- #14 ratcheting box wrench ($$)
This was very handy for installation & re-tighting after about 300 miles...
I did not bother with trying to torque wrench them, to much of a PITA...
Just wanted to summarize installing the S&S Autochrome JBA clone headers.
1) You can use the stock nuts after removing the stock exhaust manifolds.
2) Patience! Patience and More Patience! The two botton inside nuts on both sides are somewhat burried inder the motor mount girdle. Have a medium depth 14 mm socket and a plethora of extensions and you will get them off and on without rounded edges. Read - I didn't remove motor mounts to remove and replace.
3) The cat connect bolts on either side are from HE double hockey stick and took the longest to addresss. My advice is to not play with a penetrating oil, go to autozone or were ever and get a nut splitter. I used pneumatic impact wrench on high to actually strip them off the studs. They are a BIT*H!!
4) Remove the cats and y pipes on both sides, it makes life much simpler removing the manifolds. Before tightening the new headers, leave them loose and reconnect everything before torquing.
5) The dipstick pipe will keep you from removing the drivers side exahust manifold and heat shield. You can actually gently bend it forward towards the radiator to get enough room. Remember to gently bend back in place.
6) All nuts are much easier by jacking, removing the tires, folding back the little dust aprons and have at it. You do not need pneumatic tools for the manifold nuts, just a good angle, universal, proper extensions and a little elbow grease - remember patience.
7) I did use a 14 mm open end ratchet wrench for tightening the top nuts. Get one - 10 bucks at Home Depot. Also not a bad idea to hit all the nuts with a little PB Blaster or Penetro pentrating oil the night before disassembly.
Ok for the good news, with the Borla cat back and the headers, the performance is great and will get better as the computer adjusts. This Tundra flat gets after it and the headers seem to really flow at about 2700 RPM. The sound is also great and the headers/borla are hardly noticeable when cruising. I was surprised they were that civil. S&S Autochrome has made some nice inexpensive headers that work pretty well. I suspect that will even get better during the next week. A couple of nits, they need to move the o-sensor bungs 10 degrees towards the engine on the drivers side and 10 degrees to wards the wheel on the passenger side. Even though they fit well, the drive side sensor wires are a little tight until you adjust the placement. On the passenger side, the sensor is pretty close to the engine/transmission but it still fits fine. I'll check back periodiacllly and let everyone know how the perfomance is.
PM me with any questions,
bomber
Bomber,
I just received a set of SSAutochrome headers and I wanted to know which gaskets did you go with, the original stock, the ones shipped with the headers or both?
I just received a set of SSAutochrome headers and I wanted to know which gaskets did you go with, the original stock, the ones shipped with the headers or both?
Thanks
jcsinc
I used the ones that came from Autochrome although if I had to do it over, I'd spend the 30 bucks for the oem stuff from the dealer.
I wondered the same thing while waiting for my headers - but after looking at the SS Autochrome design, it seemed that they would not facilitate the OEM type gasket, as the OEM gasket is stamped steel, and not the fiber type that shipped with the headers. As a side note, the original OEM mainfold studs and torx style nuts worked fine. They sure needed re-tightening after two weeks of use (600 miles), but stayed tight after that. No leaks after 5k miles now, with some towing in the hills.
I wondered the same thing while waiting for my headers - but after looking at the SS Autochrome design, it seemed that they would not facilitate the OEM type gasket, as the OEM gasket is stamped steel, and not the fiber type that shipped with the headers. As a side note, the original OEM mainfold studs and torx style nuts worked fine. They sure needed re-tightening after two weeks of use (600 miles), but stayed tight after that. No leaks after 5k miles now, with some towing in the hills.
Are you happy with them? Do you notice any differance?
Are you happy with them? Do you notice any differance?
Very happy, they work quite well with my Bassani Dual rear entry setup. Funny thing happened after installing the headers, drone @ ~2k RPM went away. Cleans up the shift points, less lag between shifts. For the price they're selling these headers, you really can't go wrong - unless you're in CA like me(not CARB certified).
I was thinking of getting these headers and Borla Duals rear exit exhaust. Does anyoen have this setup on their truck? I would like to hear how the rumble is on it and if you are happy. Thanks a bunch.
I was thinking of getting these headers and Borla Duals rear exit exhaust. Does anyoen have this setup on their truck? I would like to hear how the rumble is on it and if you are happy. Thanks a bunch.
Michael
I have these headers with the TRD dual exhaust which is made by Borla and I love it. It's just loud enough so that you know its there but not loud enough to drone on the highway. The headers really start to growl at about 3400 RPM.
__________________
TRD Supercharger, TRD Boost Gauge, TRD Duals, 2.5 Inch Cornfed Front End Lift, TRD rear AAL's, Stone Mountain Racing Headers, Wet Okole Seat Covers (Front And Back), Clear Corners, BFG 285/75/16 AT's, American Racing Atlas Rims, Rino Liner.
I got a set with the "Y" pipe. Installed just a week ago. Reset the ECU and used the gasgets that came with the headers. Installed a F/M 50 series single in dual out. Removed the resonator. 2½ pipe from "Y" pipe and out. Stock cats. I replaced both O2's up front as well. So, here is my take on the setup.
1. Not as loud idle or low RPM.
2. MUCH stronger when you hit around 2500+ RPM sound and power wise.
3. SMOOTH between 2500 and 4000.
4. MPG went UP from 14.1 to 15.2 1st tank...(we'll see)
5. More power in mid range and up top.
6. Look great.
I am a happy camper!
SCDTRD
Photos are added too, so look!
__________________ The Beast: 1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE
The Mods:
Front tower Ractive Strut Bar, Whiteline rear AntiSway Bar, Rage Breaker 17.5x7 Rims and Falken Ziex 512 rubber, Limo Tint, Pioneer DEH 7700MP Head Unit, Polk 6x9 rear and Polk 6.5 Front speakers, Tokico struts front and rear, Carbon kevlar brake pads, Cryo treated rotors, ZEX 82021 N2O system, Polished and ported upper and lower intake runners, shift kit, and more to come.....and.... YES... it is a CAMRY....
did you have enough room for the o2 sensors,I thought that the bung was too close,unless they have been changed(the position)
Look at my previous posts for the installation. The passenger side O2 bung hole was misplaced and leaves the sensor too close to the transmission IMHO. Supposedly this was fixed on later versions.
GAskets
