You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "What type of oil??", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Still trying to figure out what section to post this under. But I'll take my chances here. Its already time for my Tundra's first oil change. Like any other owner would want. I want to give her the best or near best that there is to keep her running solid. What do you all use and recommend from past experiences?? And what filters do you all use???
I did a search and didn't find much.......But I noticed someone said they used "Trd" filters? DIdn't know Toyota made their own brand filters such as this? Anyways...any info is welcomed
Thanks
-Steve
__________________
2003 White Tundra Sr5 v8
-stock for now.
I use castrol oil and buy toyota filters from the dealer ship--They are not TRD filter-But they are genuine Toyota filters and come with drain plug gaskets.I compaired a STP filter to a toyota filter and the toyo is way better and it doesnt cost that much more.
__________________
2000 SR5 4.7L 4x4 Tundra w/daystar level kit and add a leaf rear,Three inch body lift,Eagle Alloy 16x10 wheels,315/75/16,Pioneer dvd gps system,Front clear corner lamps,rear Altezza tail lamps,40s flowmaster mufflers single in dual out,Stone mountain headers,Helix thottle body spacer,K&N cool air intake system,Dyno-214 hp at rear wheels,Viper alarm W/remote start,Cobra radar detector,And to top it off,my Tundra has a B!tchin driver. My website www.truckinutz.com
__________________
2004.5 Z Special Thanks To My sponsors: EDO Performance, Euphoric Designs, Falken Tire, GT Spec, Impex Motorsports, JIC, JP USA, Meguiar’s, Motordyne Engineering, Nippon Oil USA/Eneos, Recaro, Rotora, Samco Sport, Showtronics, Splparts.com, Sun Automobile, SVRTechnologies, Technosquare, Work Wheels
rn039 or anyone else would it be wise to use synthetic this early in the engines life? right now I'm about at 3k miles and was often told for our '01 Burben that it was wise to use synthetics after you well over the 20 or 30k mark on the engine. That was the typical recommendation from the dealer and most GM gear heads. But I'll try anything! Thanks so far for the replies
__________________
2003 White Tundra Sr5 v8
-stock for now.
No synthetic here .I use reg. oil .I got 60K on it and been changing it every 3k.I dont mess around with it.I first got it new did it at 700,than 3000.After that 6K-9K-12K-15k-ect now at 60K
what its time to do it again.I will be back --------Shoot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
__________________
2000 SR5 4.7L 4x4 Tundra w/daystar level kit and add a leaf rear,Three inch body lift,Eagle Alloy 16x10 wheels,315/75/16,Pioneer dvd gps system,Front clear corner lamps,rear Altezza tail lamps,40s flowmaster mufflers single in dual out,Stone mountain headers,Helix thottle body spacer,K&N cool air intake system,Dyno-214 hp at rear wheels,Viper alarm W/remote start,Cobra radar detector,And to top it off,my Tundra has a B!tchin driver. My website www.truckinutz.com
Originally posted by c350 Sr5 rn039 or anyone else would it be wise to use synthetic this early in the engines life? right now I'm about at 3k miles and was often told for our '01 Burben that it was wise to use synthetics after you well over the 20 or 30k mark on the engine. That was the typical recommendation from the dealer and most GM gear heads. But I'll try anything! Thanks so far for the replies
I bought my truck used with 22K, so I dunno.
__________________
2004.5 Z Special Thanks To My sponsors: EDO Performance, Euphoric Designs, Falken Tire, GT Spec, Impex Motorsports, JIC, JP USA, Meguiar’s, Motordyne Engineering, Nippon Oil USA/Eneos, Recaro, Rotora, Samco Sport, Showtronics, Splparts.com, Sun Automobile, SVRTechnologies, Technosquare, Work Wheels
Originally posted by Blk00TRD synthetics all the way...mobile 1 with filter...best for price
redline is better, not as redilly available.
Racing oil does really work, but the cost is just crazy. I used to use racing oil in the MR2 and got a lil bit better gas mileage while mashing out too!
__________________
2004.5 Z Special Thanks To My sponsors: EDO Performance, Euphoric Designs, Falken Tire, GT Spec, Impex Motorsports, JIC, JP USA, Meguiar’s, Motordyne Engineering, Nippon Oil USA/Eneos, Recaro, Rotora, Samco Sport, Showtronics, Splparts.com, Sun Automobile, SVRTechnologies, Technosquare, Work Wheels
You would not believe how much discussion such a simple question generates. If you go to BOBISTHE OILGUY.Com, this is all they talk about.
Like you, I purchased a used Tundra with 20,000 miles and became a voracious reader on the subject of oil. If there is anything close to a general consensus, it is this:
1. Dino oils work well if you change it and the filter frequently, with 3,000 miles considered somewhat of a standard.
2. Use a quality filter
3. Synthetics are marginally superior to dino oils
4. Type IV and V synthetics are superior to Type III (pseudo-synthetics)
5. Mobil 1 is a type IV that is readily available, frequently on-sale, and performs well. Redline and Amzoil are considered by some the best of the best, but are expensive. Schaeffer has a strong following, whose standard automotive oil is a synthetic blend with a superior parrafin petroleum base stock.
6. Some users feel you can safely extend your drain intervals with synthetics.
7. Many who subscribe to the "synthetic is worth the higher price and peace of mind" club go synthetic with their ATF and differential fluid as well.
After digesting what feels like a thousand posts and opinions on the subject, I decided to use Redline in my differential, Mobil 1 10/30 for the engine, and Amzoil ATF in the transmission. I change the engine oil every 5K, and the differential & tranny fluid 25,000. I also use Mobil 1 oil filters. I hope I live long enough to see the benefit.
Originally posted by c350 Sr5
....
But I noticed someone said they used "Trd" filters? DIdn't know Toyota made their own brand filters such as this? Anyways...any info is welcomed
Thanks
-Steve
Toyota doesn't make filters. Denso makes the OEM filters for Toyota, and I think that they're good...I use them. I don't know who makes TRD-labeled filters, but I think they do make you go faster...mainly due to your lighter wallet.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
The oil "Type" you mentioned is actually the base oil Group. A lubricant is usually about 80% base oil and 20% additive package. The base oil used these days in conventional oil is usually Group II for 10W-30, 15W-40, and 20W-50 and Group II+ for 5W-30. The 5W-30 needs a higher viscosity index, which is the oil's resistance to thinning more at high temperatures and thickening more at low temps, and the higher rated base oil has a higher viscosity index.
Very highly refined petroleum oil (called VHVI--very high viscosity index) is called Group III base oil and it has the legal right to be called "full synthetic." This includes all over-the-counter brands of synthetic except Mobil 1 and one type of Castrol Syntec--the imported German 0W-30. Group III base oils make good lubes, but no way worth the price they get. Amsoil's XL-7500 line is also made from Gr-III base oil.
Mobil 1, the German Castrol 0W-30, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and some others are made from Group IV base oil which is polyalphaolefin (PAO) and/or Group V esters. These usually give better performance. My feeling is that in our engines they're easily good for 7500 miles, and maybe longer if proven by lab analysis.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
TundraSolutions.com is a registered trademark of Tundra Solutions, Inc.
Other trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the TundraSolutions.com User Agreement and Privacy Policy.