Ok.. Update!
My Toyota Tech buddy David came over after work today with the TOYOTA Scantool. So, needless to say.. we were able to read ALL parameters on the ECU. So.. here is what we did.
When he arrived, we plugged the scantool in and started driving. I did a bit of normal driving, a bit of mid level stuff and a few full throttle starts from a dead stop. I also went WOT at several speeds and took it to redline. Then we drove back to the house and DISCONNECTED the TRD PIGGYBACK ECU. Well... We did about the same with it unplugged.
Ok.. here are the results...
WITH TRD PIGGYBACK ECU:
1. Long Term Fuel Trim was sitting at +2%
2. Timing is around 13 to 15 deg for normal driving.
3. Timing is retarded to 5 to 8 deg at WOT or near WOT between 3000 to 4000 at which it JUMPS to +20.5 at 4K.
4. No ping.
5. HORRIABLE shift stumble.
WITHOUT TRD PIGGYBACK ECU:
1. Long term was unavailable as we reset the ECU prior to driving.
2. Short trem was +2.7% as the MAF was "seeing" a LOT more air passing and tried to compensate.
3. BAT OUTTA HELL off the line and 1500 to 4000 RPM came QUICK.
4. BAD PING AT 3700 RPM or higher. (if I was hitting 4psi or more)
5. The timing was NEVER lower than 15 deg and peaked at 25 deg at 3800.. and was holding steady until the ping started, then the knock sensor would determine that there was knock, and retard to around 20 deg. The ping was VERY noticeable.
Believe me, when David and I did a WOT the 1st time with the ECU out of the picture, we both thought that I had messed something up!
We realized it was the ping and calmed down.. it was funny..sorta.
6. No shift stumble.
So.. here is what we learned...
1. The 9th injector has GOT to be a large injector.
2. It is NOT on or off.. it is pulsed.
3. With the 9th, there IS enough fuel to run correctly.
4. The ECU is retarding too much and adding too much fuel.
It seems that, just from that initial run, the stock ECU is ok to run for performance. If you had a 9th injector controller (split second AIC-1) and could build a custom map (you can) and base that map off of RPM and boost (you do).
So.. above 3000 and above 3PSI start spraying juice, and it is just a matter of run and program, run and program.
It would not take a long time to smooth out a start map.
That is my take on the test for today.
I think I am on the right path....
Wanted to share. Also, I posted some new photos.
1. The boost gauge at WOT.
2. The custom plumbing I installed on the S/C
3. The Bypass actuator with the bottom section unplugged.
The Custom plumbing is to run the boost line over to the FMU and the other port is available for the AIC-1 whae i get it.
I will keep you posted on the progress!!
SCDTRD
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The Beast:
1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE
The Mods:
Front tower Ractive Strut Bar, Whiteline rear AntiSway Bar, Rage Breaker 17.5x7 Rims and Falken Ziex 512 rubber, Limo Tint, Pioneer DEH 7700MP Head Unit, Polk 6x9 rear and Polk 6.5 Front speakers, Tokico struts front and rear, Carbon kevlar brake pads, Cryo treated rotors, ZEX 82021 N2O system, Polished and ported upper and lower intake runners, shift kit, and more to come.....and.... YES... it is a CAMRY....
"Back in the black!"
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