What Oil are you using?

[Son of Odin]

Reading through the threads I see that the Lexus 20004 filter is very popular. What about the oil, what type of oil is best?

[mikeinaustin]

i use amsoil 10w30 ATM (with the -20004 filter). have redline in my rear differential. also have amsoil univesal atf in transmission and power steering system.

i have 2002 (dexron ii/iii specified for transmission and power steering) v8 tundra.

[KLS]

Schaeffer's 5W-30 or 10W-30 (depending on the season) synthetic blend oil
http://www.schaefferoil.com/data/701.htm
http://www.schaefferoil.com/data/703.htm

Friends are getting good analyses with very low wear in their Fords and Dodges at 10,000 miles on this oil, and one guy I know told me that he got a good analysis at 26,000 miles...his Dodge Caravan has 497,000 miles running this oil with 20,000 oil changes (except the one time he forgot) and no major engine work. I'll get analyses every 5k to see what's happening. BTW, good analyses at the recommended change intervals preserve warranty coverage.


Ken

[delrmx01]

Originally posted by AmeenR
I run Mobil 1 10-30 full synthetic with the Mobil 1 oil filter. The oil filter is proven to outflow any others with excellent filtration. Ive run the same oil/filter in all my previous vehicles without a single problem or hiccup.

I use the same thing--actually 5-30W.

[DW]

I use the 20004 Totota/Lexus filter & Mobil 1 5W-30.

[Invid]

Yup 5W-30 with a Fram Synthetic Fiber filter.

[doctormdds]

Mobil 1 5W-30 and standard Toyota filter every 5,000 miles. Mobil 1 ATF in transmission and Mobil 1 Gear Lube in differential.

[dgg2002]

Mobil 1 10W30 with Purolator Pure One filter.

[bloodypulp]

Mobil1 10w-30 and Toyota filter every 3500 miles. Once I hit 12,000 miles, I'll change every 5000 miles.

[bdpower!]

I run Schaeffer's synthetic 10w-30 with the 20004 filter. I had run Mobil 1 5w-30 and 10w-30 until researching Schaeffer's. Their synthetic oil has moly disulfide in it to greatly reduce friction and wear. Also the fact that is is $2.80/quart vs Mobil 1's $4.77/quart makes it a very attractive alternative. Schaeffer oil company also offers excellent moly grease, fuel additives, and synthetic gear oils. Well worth the added effort to track some down.

[KLS]

Originally posted by bdpower!
I run Schaeffer's synthetic 10w-30 with the 20004 filter. I had run Mobil 1 5w-30 and 10w-30 until researching Schaeffer's. Their synthetic oil has moly disulfide in it to greatly reduce friction and wear. Also the fact that is is $2.80/quart vs Mobil 1's $4.77/quart makes it a very attractive alternative. Schaeffer oil company also offers excellent moly grease, fuel additives, and synthetic gear oils. Well worth the added effort to track some down.

No molybdenum disulfide in motor oil, at least not in Schaeffer's. It contains molybdenum trialkyldithiocarbamate, an anti-wear, extreme pressure, and friction modifying agent, which plates a molybdenum compound on wear points under heat and pressure. This moly plating reduces friction and heat, nearly eliminates wear, and is never more than half-a-ten-thousanths thick.

Schaeffer's gear oil and grease do contain MoS2.


Ken

[Red Hornet]

Chevron Supreme Motor Oil
[Costco 12 qts. for $11.97]

Mobil 1 Filter
[Auto Zone, ~$11 each]

Oil every 3K; filter every 6K.
10W-30 cooler months
10W-40 warmer months

~ 84,000 miles @ 35 months.
~ 18.7 mpg

Cheers,
-RH

[GreyTRD03]

Standard dino oil, Pennzoil 5w30, for another 2K miles until I hit 5K. Then switch to Mobil1 5w30. Use Purolator filters in all my vehicles and my tractor.

[jeremy2525]

I have been reading these message boards (ford and toyota, cannot find a silverado board) for quite some time. The topic of oil is the common thread, people are looking for the Magical Fountain of Engine Youth This is what my vast life experience in life has taught me.Magical Fountain of Engine Youth Magical Fountain of Engine Youth.

People choose an oil more out of superstition than anything else, "my father used Valvoline, so did his father, they only drove Fords, and they got over 2.5 bazillion miles out of em', they bought a Chevy one year, it only lasted 300 miles and it was sitting next to the barn for 20 years, with only 300 hundred miles"

Of course that sounds familiar, we all either know this person, or we are this person.....myself included.

I use only valvoline, 10-30, change the oil every 3000 miles, I have never ever had an engine failure....EVER!!! Why do I use valvoline?????? As a kid, I used to poke the holes in the metal oil cans and be in charge of switching the pour spout from can to can, I only saw Valvoline, did not know another oil existed till I started driving cars myself, I dare not try another brand though, the OIL GODS would strike my engine DEAD.

Oil technology as well as engine technology has progressed over the years, engines are more efficient and oils are more slippery. the only wrench that can be thrown in rock solid Valvoline 10-30/changed every 3000 theory is the synthetic engine oil.

I have yet to assess how the engine oil gods feel about synthetic oil, they may be very displeased with me for using it, and strike my motor down, I have yet to try it. Depending on which full size truck I buy, I will use synthetic. THIS IS MY EXPERIENCE WITH SYNTHETIC OIL AND WHY I AM SOLD ON IT>>>

I used to be an H-60 Seahawk rescue crewmember (same thing as the Army Blackhawk), The turbine engines use Synthetic fluids only, and here is the kicker, You never change the oil in a turbine engine. That engine (two actually) runs 20,600 rpm constant, the only thing that changes is the amount of fuel delivered to maintain those RPM's. 20600 in the blistering heat of the sandy Persain Gulf, to the blistering heat and humidity of South America, to the Blistering cold of Alaska. The only oil maintenance that is performed is adding oil, so it is in the proper range, and sending the oil out for analysis every xxxx hours of flight time. These engines turn for THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS of hours at 20,600 RPM and the oil is never changed...

So what does all this mean??? Turbine engines are amazing pieces of efficiency, they do not suffer the blow-by problem of our less efficient internal combustion piston pushers. Turbines (at least mine) operate at one RPM range and do it well. (just like your dad said, do one thing, do it well) and above all, synthetics stand up to their extreme heat and climate conditions, never needing to be changed.

Use synthetic, use dino oil, just change it regularly! sorry you had to read through all that to get to the final statement.

JC

[coal miner]

After reading all the above specs I couldn't help but reflect back for a few monents when I was 18 & bought a 41 Ford convertable. The engine ran good but had so much blow by I had to put rags under the hood to keep the oil from coming up on the windshield. To further reduce oil consumption I used old rear end oil. Despite all this the car had power, I made all the drive in movies & cruises. The Old ford ran 6 months like that well into the autumn & I had fun. What oil filter? What mobile #1 synthetic. Just gimmie a gallon of old 90 weight rear end oil & I was good for the weekend. What fun & those drives to the Beach at Coney Island. I paid $45 for the car & then sold it for $15 to a friend. So lets not forget to have some old fashion fun with our trucks too. I'm headin for the beach! Coal Miner