I changed the coolant on my V6 Tundra today. Did everything according to the manual and the instructions on Maintainence Bay. Anyway, I drained the coolant (did both drain plugs on the V6), reinstalled the plugs, poured in new coolant, closed radiator and resevior cap...
When I bled the cooling system, however, the temperatur gauge soon went above the old usual temperature, and even though I had the knob turned all the way to heat, the air coming out of the AC vents are just cold. I shut the engine because I didn't want it to overheat due to some stupid mistake I might have made. I double checked the instructions and am 100% sure I did everything accordingly. What could have gone wrong? Thanks very much.
Another thing... I could only manage to pour in maybe 5 or 6 liters of coolant before the radiator filled up, whereas the manual says the capacity is 10... Now where are the hidden 5 liters that I didn't drain?
Capacity: Probably includes what's in the block and heater lines. So just draining the radiator won't get you all the way to capacity.
Overheating: Possible bad thermostat. Incorrect coolant mix. Air in the thermostat.
Hope you figure it out!
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Genthar
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Did you check the fluid level AFTER it got hot? Im suspecting you took out 10 but only added 5-6 when you refilled. You have to start the truck, let it warm up until the thermostat opens, THEN finish adding the remaining fluid to it to total 10. Also dont forget to turn ON (turn temp knob to hot) the heater, this will allow water to flow through the heater core and get out the remaining air. Sounds like you only filled up the radiator and part of the block, maybe your missing fluid should be in the heater core.
Just something to check.
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After I wrote the initial post, I went back outside to my Tundra to find out that the radiator was sucking coolant from the resevior. I filled up the resevior, started the truck again, and again it was approaching the red line on the temp gauge. (Yes I did turn on the heater).
So I turned off the engine, waited for it to cool down, and again coolant was being sucked out of the resevior, and so I filled up the resevior...... I repeated this whole process for about 4 or 5 times when Hallelujah! warm air began coming out from AC and the temp gauge stayed right in the middle. After all that, I had put in a good 8~9 liters of coolant. Problem gone. Yet another reminder not to expect life as we expect it to be.
Thanks again, Genthar and SATundra for your insights.
The block heater bolt is easy to get at if you gather as many socket extensions together (2 feet or more) and access the bolt from the tire well. One thing that is easy to do and makes life easier down the road is remove the overflow tank and clean out the inside so it is spotless. I have a older Toyota that I purchased used and the overflow plastic was so dirty it was almost impossible to see the level without opening up the fill cap. I believe my V-6 Tundra is only held in place with 1 bolt.
Originally posted by DeepStealth stupid question from the peanut gallery...
who, specifically, takes old coolant? (please dont tell me to find a gopher hole...heard that one )
-sean
"Recycle/Disposal Options
Antifreeze should not be disposed of by throwing it in the trash, pouring it down the storm sewer, or putting it into septic systems. Many storm sewers discharge directly to surface waters, such as ponds or streams. Degradation of the antifreeze consumes the oxygen in the water, effectively smothering plant and animal life in the pond or stream and causes a foul odor. Poured into a septic system, the antifreeze may damage the
system by killing the microorganisms necessary for decomposition.
Acceptable methods of managing used antifreeze include recycling, disposal at a hazardous waste treatment, storage, or disposal facility (TSDF), or discharge to a wastewater treatment plant with prior written approval of the Publicly Owned Treatment Works (POTW). Most wastewater treatment plants discourage sewering of used antifreeze, and many no longer allow discharges of antifreeze to their systems at all. Recycling used antifreeze is the preferred option." http://www.cdphe.state.co.us/hm/antifreeze.pdf
Call your local recycling center or public hazardous waste disposal center. Or ask a repair shop if you can add it to their waste antifreeze.
Ken
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You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
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I prefer to use full-strength antifreeze. I look up the cooling system capacity and add the correct amount of antifreeze for the proportion I want...40% in moderate climates, 50% for normal freezing winters, 60% for -30F and below. I then top off with distilled water. I've never gotten a system to drain completely. As you found, getting all the air bled out can be a chore. I flush the cooling system every two years, and change the thermostat maybe every four years...'stats wear out, and they're cheap.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
KLS, I know I should mix them myself, but I have a good excuse: I was too lazy.
An interesting side story. When I was doing the coolant change yesterday, a neighbor who works at a nearby Toyota dealership (whose identity will not be revealed) came over. I started complaining about the engine block drain, and the guy said what, there's only 1 drain plug, and that's on the radiator. So I showed him the service manual, and he was like okay but draining the radiator would be enough because that's all we do at the shop. I said then why do they put another drain plug on the engine, because draining the radiator is not a complete job.
Finally the guy was convinced. I showed him how hard the engine drain is to get to, and he said okay maybe that's why we skip it. Yeah, and that's why I prefer to do it myself.
That got me thinking... just how many things do they skip at the dealership in other maintainence procedures? My guess is don't rely on your fingers when counting them. This is where DIYing really pays off.
I changed the coolant on my V6 Tundra today. Did everything according to the manual and the instructions on Maintainence Bay. Anyway, I drained the coolant (did both drain plugs on the V6), reinstalled the plugs, poured in new coolant, closed radiator and resevior cap...
When I bled the cooling system, however, the temperatur gauge soon went above the old usual temperature, and even though I had the knob turned all the way to heat, the air coming out of the AC vents are just cold. I shut the engine because I didn't want it to overheat due to some stupid mistake I might have made. I double checked the instructions and am 100% sure I did everything accordingly. What could have gone wrong? Thanks very much.
Good question. As far as I can remember, "bleeding" the coolant simply means the following.
Once you've filled up with new coolant, turning on the engine. Turn the A/C on, the temperature knob (the blue/red one) all the way to maximum heat, and the fan control to highest wind.
You may notice the air coming out is not hot at all. But keep the engine and A/C running until hot air comes out. In the meantime, check the coolant resevoir level periodically and fill up if necessary. Stop when hot air comes out of the A/C.
So here's what Chiltons told me to do (when the rubber met the road, I couldn't stand to spend $200 on OEM manuals ;-(
The drain thing - OEM coolant is ethylene glycol and bad for the environment. Got to collect all that stuff, not just flush it out. So, we drain the radiator into a bucket. Then we drain the block (two valves on the 2UZ) into another bucket. Close all the drains.
The flush thing - Once the system is drained, pull the thermostat housing off, pull the thermostat out, and reinstall the thermostat housing without the thermostat. Disconnect the hose going from there to the top of the radiator at the radiator. Stuff a garden hose into the radiator in the hole opened by removing the input hose. Install radiator cap. Turn hose on, turn engine on, turn heater on hot, turn fan on full. Return to engine bay to find water being exhausted from the thermostat hose onto the fan, which is slung ALL over. Wait until the water runs really clear. Secure engine and water. DRAIN the radiator and block again. Reinstall the thermostat and reconnect the radiator hose. Remove the resevoir to flush and empty. Note: after looking at the book again, you might not need to run the engine during this step, which would keep you from spraying water all over the place).
The fill thing - After you make sure all drain plugs are secure, SLOWLY start filling your radiator through the cap until it's full. Put cap on. Partially fill the resevoir. Run engine with heater/fan on hot. Feel that radiator input hose you had removed and reinstalled; once it gets hot, your thermostat's opened. Turn the engine off and let it cool long enough to be safe to open the radiator. SLOWLY refill the radiator, and squeeze the input line to move bubbles from the line into the radiator. Add more coolant if necessary. Finish filling the resevoir up to the FULL line. Inspect for leaks.
The follow-up - after a couple days, you'll want to come back and check/fill the resevoir level; mine dropped a few inches.
Here's the coolant deal: if you didn't use the Toyota poison coolant, and used some of the clean stuff, you wouldn't have to drain. I'm pretty sure you could just pull the thermostat and do the flush thing step to both empty and flush. Still have to get under there to drain the tap water after flushing, but it'd save you from doing it twice. I for one have had so many coolant system failures in my life that with the Sequoia, I take no chances. OEM stuff right at 30K (18 months).
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1995 TOYOTA Hilux: 206K, any gas, any filter, first 100K Castrol Syntec, GTX since
Badly need help with coolant change
)
All im gonna say is I keep mine in the garage. 
As far as I can remember, "bleeding" the coolant simply means the following.
Linear Mode
