top speed limiter

[mandzach]

I just got a new 03' tundra, i went with the TRD supercharger and had my dealer install it- what gives? The top speed limiter ( i thought ) would be deleted with the new trd ecu piggyback- but i was wrong- a guy i talked to at performance combos.com told me that a friend of his just had a trd s/c installed and the top speed limiter was gone now- what gives ? any info plz - im pissed! $5000.00 with labor and i cant get her over 105 mph?

[wes 03]

you are goin to have to get a unichip, another 1000 bucks but it can really open up that supercharger, there is a thread sayin somethin bout mroe unichip info, started by scdtrd, they are in the development stages of the harness, check that thread for info, and hp and torque numbers that are almost unreal

wes

[scdtrd]

Originally Posted by mandzach

I just got a new 03' tundra, i went with the TRD supercharger and had my dealer install it- what gives? The top speed limiter ( i thought ) would be deleted with the new trd ecu piggyback- but i was wrong- a guy i talked to at performance combos.com told me that a friend of his just had a trd s/c installed and the top speed limiter was gone now- what gives ? any info plz - im pissed! $5000.00 with labor and i cant get her over 105 mph?

Yes.... the TRD PIGGYBACK ECU is good for one thing and one thing only... it keeps the engine from making too much power. You need to contact Jack Friedman, General Manager, Unichip of North America 707.481.2355
e-mail is jack@unichip.us
He is in the mid stages of the wire harness and is getting close to having a production unit.
Believe me... I have been WAITING and WAITING.... I am SICK of the TRD ECU crap.

As a matter of fact.. as an observation, I was having the truck "stumble" or hesitate between 3200 and 3900 RPM... after 3900+ it would smooth out and run quite well accually. Well, I was looking in the rearview mirror and noticed when it was stumbling, that the exhaust was very black smoke!!! It is running MEGA RICH!!! that is part of the problem! Anyway.. just another example of the great programming that you purchased! Get the Unichip, scrap the TRD PIGGYBACK CRAP and be happy. Here is a snippett from an e-mail from Jack to me about a question I asked on the Unichip!


"You will, very literally, be able to correctly compensate for any part you want to put on your engine, intake, or exhaust. If it mechanically interfaces ok, the Unichip will provide the correct electronic control. That includes parts never intended to get on your truck. The example which comes to mind was a Porsche 944 Turbo track car which we installed a F-Series MAF - it worked great."

Aditionally, you can remove the speed limiter and rev limiter!

SCDTRD

[wes 03]

can you say the estimated cost? is it still about a grand? i want one for when i get my engine mods but that is an awfully expensive price

wes

[mandzach]

Originally Posted by scdtrd

Yes.... the TRD PIGGYBACK ECU is good for one thing and one thing only... it keeps the engine from making too much power. You need to contact Jack Friedman, General Manager, Unichip of North America 707.481.2355
e-mail is jack@unichip.us
He is in the mid stages of the wire harness and is getting close to having a production unit.
Believe me... I have been WAITING and WAITING.... I am SICK of the TRD ECU crap.

As a matter of fact.. as an observation, I was having the truck "stumble" or hesitate between 3200 and 3900 RPM... after 3900+ it would smooth out and run quite well accually. Well, I was looking in the rearview mirror and noticed when it was stumbling, that the exhaust was very black smoke!!! It is running MEGA RICH!!! that is part of the problem! Anyway.. just another example of the great programming that you purchased! Get the Unichip, scrap the TRD PIGGYBACK CRAP and be happy. Here is a snippett from an e-mail from Jack to me about a question I asked on the Unichip!


"You will, very literally, be able to correctly compensate for any part you want to put on your engine, intake, or exhaust. If it mechanically interfaces ok, the Unichip will provide the correct electronic control. That includes parts never intended to get on your truck. The example which comes to mind was a Porsche 944 Turbo track car which we installed a F-Series MAF - it worked great."

Aditionally, you can remove the speed limiter and rev limiter!

SCDTRD

jack said hes rdy maybe 3-4 weeks left befor it goes on sale for plug in and play model. he told me to get rid of top speed limiter it will cost a lil more , somthing about the unichip will need an extra modual or somthing for the cruise control to still work. he said maybe an extra $80-100 bucks for top speed mod. and claims where correct- trd tundra with s/c went in his shop making 376 peak h.p. ,after tuning on dyno and unichip installed left the shop making .......r u rdy?.......434 h.p. id say thats worth whatever he wants to charge for it! i cant wait - by the way scdtrd will you have yours dyno'd or just buy a preprogramed one? ty for the info later yota brother : )

[scdtrd]

I will most likely go with the pre programmed Unichip to start with. Then, Once I get a "feel" for how it is driving, then I might go and have it re-tuned. I need to see what it is like out of the box to start with. Who knows.. might be on the money, or not. I will get the SSAutoChrome FIPK kit and the SSAutocChrome Headers and "Y" pipe to round out the package. If I wanna go all out.. then Mike in Houston makes the overdrive pulleys and go 13psi and larger injectors.. then OMG... it should be in the 500HP+ range at the crank.... so I am thinking 450+ RWHP? Yea.... Tundra with a large hairy set..
SCDTRD

[slow camry]

Originally Posted by scdtrd

I will most likely go with the pre programmed Unichip to start with. Then, Once I get a "feel" for how it is driving, then I might go and have it re-tuned. I need to see what it is like out of the box to start with. Who knows.. might be on the money, or not. I will get the SSAutoChrome FIPK kit and the SSAutocChrome Headers and "Y" pipe to round out the package. If I wanna go all out.. then Mike in Houston makes the overdrive pulleys and go 13psi and larger injectors.. then OMG... it should be in the 500HP+ range at the crank.... so I am thinking 450+ RWHP? Yea.... Tundra with a large hairy set..
SCDTRD

I too would absolutely want these results, but what is the capacity of the tranny and the rear end? id hate to get all this new found power only to shell out a couple grand because my tranny or rear is in eleventy billion pieces.

[scdtrd]

Originally Posted by slow camry

I too would absolutely want these results, but what is the capacity of the tranny and the rear end? id hate to get all this new found power only to shell out a couple grand because my tranny or rear is in eleventy billion pieces.

This is my thinking overall, you have to look at the entire drive line. Your only as strong as the weakest point. So, you beef up the engine, make DARN sure that you:

1. Beef up the rear diff = TRD LSD
2. Sway bay (recomended)
3. Stronger rear leafs, or AAL...
4. Run Synthetic Rear Diff oil (Recomended)
5. Run Amzoil or HIGH quality ATF.
6. Have valvebody on AT recalibrated to take added power.
7. Over sized oil cooler for AT.. (recomended)
8. Run Synthetic Oil for Engine or HQ oil...

I KNOW for a FACT that the AT will NOT take the abuse of the S/C from previous workings... I toasted the tranny on my 1999 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner, and did not think about the tranny when I was beefing up the 3.4L V6. Well... It reminded me. SO... In talking with Pat @ Level 10 the culprit is not the tranny.. it is the slop between the shifts. There is an elecronically controlled cross over between leaving 1st and engauging 2nd. This is by design, so the avg. person has a smooth shift and it drives like a car. 95% of the people who purchase a Tundra, want this, and it is not a problem. If you go down the road I am taking, then you MUST remove the slop. The added 100+ hp & TQ push thru the programmed slip, and this builds excessive amounts of heat. If you remove the slop, and open the ports in the valve body, then you add a lot of extra clamping pressure. This will shift harder, but remove the damaging effects of the slop shift. The reaction plates and the clutches can then enguage and your putting the power to the pavement insted of heat in the tranny. Toyota's solution to this was to lower the boost during a shift and lower the clamping pressure so the tranny would still shift "soft". Toyota took the low road. I am taking the high road. It is all in what you want. In another post, I wrote that if Toyota REALLY wanted to offer a performance package WORTHY of the TRD logo, then it would include a properly tuned ECU, not a piggyback unit. It would include a replacement valvebody and a LSD rear end. But, the cost is high. Nissan offers a package like this on the Maxima. It is $7,900.00 or so for the Maxima. It is a Stillen S/C, (screw type, not roots) Upgraded suspention and motor mounts, and a replacement ECU. A complete package.
Anyway.. it can be done.. it is all in what level of performance you want.
SCDTRD

[H2O_MAN]

Originally Posted by mandzach

jack said hes rdy maybe 3-4 weeks left befor it goes on sale for plug in and play model. he told me to get rid of top speed limiter it will cost a lil more , somthing about the unichip will need an extra modual or somthing for the cruise control to still work. he said maybe an extra $80-100 bucks for top speed mod. and claims where correct- trd tundra with s/c went in his shop making 376 peak h.p. ,after tuning on dyno and unichip installed left the shop making .......r u rdy?.......434 h.p. id say thats worth whatever he wants to charge for it! i cant wait - by the way scdtrd will you have yours dyno'd or just buy a preprogramed one? ty for the info later yota brother : )

Any idea or guess what kind of h.p. this
PnP Unichip will make on a bone stock 4.7L?

[slow camry]

Originally Posted by scdtrd

This is my thinking overall, you have to look at the entire drive line. Your only as strong as the weakest point. So, you beef up the engine, make DARN sure that you:

1. Beef up the rear diff = TRD LSD
2. Sway bay (recomended)
3. Stronger rear leafs, or AAL...
4. Run Synthetic Rear Diff oil (Recomended)
5. Run Amzoil or HIGH quality ATF.
6. Have valvebody on AT recalibrated to take added power.
7. Over sized oil cooler for AT.. (recomended)
8. Run Synthetic Oil for Engine or HQ oil...

I KNOW for a FACT that the AT will NOT take the abuse of the S/C from previous workings... I toasted the tranny on my 1999 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner, and did not think about the tranny when I was beefing up the 3.4L V6. Well... It reminded me. SO... In talking with Pat @ Level 10 the culprit is not the tranny.. it is the slop between the shifts. There is an elecronically controlled cross over between leaving 1st and engauging 2nd. This is by design, so the avg. person has a smooth shift and it drives like a car. 95% of the people who purchase a Tundra, want this, and it is not a problem. If you go down the road I am taking, then you MUST remove the slop. The added 100+ hp & TQ push thru the programmed slip, and this builds excessive amounts of heat. If you remove the slop, and open the ports in the valve body, then you add a lot of extra clamping pressure. This will shift harder, but remove the damaging effects of the slop shift. The reaction plates and the clutches can then enguage and your putting the power to the pavement insted of heat in the tranny. Toyota's solution to this was to lower the boost during a shift and lower the clamping pressure so the tranny would still shift "soft". Toyota took the low road. I am taking the high road. It is all in what you want. In another post, I wrote that if Toyota REALLY wanted to offer a performance package WORTHY of the TRD logo, then it would include a properly tuned ECU, not a piggyback unit. It would include a replacement valvebody and a LSD rear end. But, the cost is high. Nissan offers a package like this on the Maxima. It is $7,900.00 or so for the Maxima. It is a Stillen S/C, (screw type, not roots) Upgraded suspention and motor mounts, and a replacement ECU. A complete package.
Anyway.. it can be done.. it is all in what level of performance you want.
SCDTRD

Thats interesdting, the electronically cross-over between the 1-2 shift that is, sounds like a lot of trouble, have you gotten a quote for the level 10 calibration on the tranny? I knew that obviously the TRD LSD would have to be installed as well as high performance diff. oil and ATF. I never really did think about rear leafs, but then again this is my first Truck to play with. I hope with in the next couple years, TRD will get on the ball and offer something worthy of the price. For my transformation, i wanna get it all done at once so i have alot of time to save $$$

[mandzach]

Originally Posted by scdtrd

This is my thinking overall, you have to look at the entire drive line. Your only as strong as the weakest point. So, you beef up the engine, make DARN sure that you:

1. Beef up the rear diff = TRD LSD
2. Sway bay (recomended)
3. Stronger rear leafs, or AAL...
4. Run Synthetic Rear Diff oil (Recomended)
5. Run Amzoil or HIGH quality ATF.
6. Have valvebody on AT recalibrated to take added power.
7. Over sized oil cooler for AT.. (recomended)
8. Run Synthetic Oil for Engine or HQ oil...

I KNOW for a FACT that the AT will NOT take the abuse of the S/C from previous workings... I toasted the tranny on my 1999 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner, and did not think about the tranny when I was beefing up the 3.4L V6. Well... It reminded me. SO... In talking with Pat @ Level 10 the culprit is not the tranny.. it is the slop between the shifts. There is an elecronically controlled cross over between leaving 1st and engauging 2nd. This is by design, so the avg. person has a smooth shift and it drives like a car. 95% of the people who purchase a Tundra, want this, and it is not a problem. If you go down the road I am taking, then you MUST remove the slop. The added 100+ hp & TQ push thru the programmed slip, and this builds excessive amounts of heat. If you remove the slop, and open the ports in the valve body, then you add a lot of extra clamping pressure. This will shift harder, but remove the damaging effects of the slop shift. The reaction plates and the clutches can then enguage and your putting the power to the pavement insted of heat in the tranny. Toyota's solution to this was to lower the boost during a shift and lower the clamping pressure so the tranny would still shift "soft". Toyota took the low road. I am taking the high road. It is all in what you want. In another post, I wrote that if Toyota REALLY wanted to offer a performance package WORTHY of the TRD logo, then it would include a properly tuned ECU, not a piggyback unit. It would include a replacement valvebody and a LSD rear end. But, the cost is high. Nissan offers a package like this on the Maxima. It is $7,900.00 or so for the Maxima. It is a Stillen S/C, (screw type, not roots) Upgraded suspention and motor mounts, and a replacement ECU. A complete package.
Anyway.. it can be done.. it is all in what level of performance you want.
SCDTRD

whats the price on that level 10 valve body upgrade?

[dupont24]

Originally Posted by mandzach

whats the price on that level 10 valve body upgrade?

go to www.levelten.com I think it's like 700

[slow camry]

Originally Posted by rsvees