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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Breaking nut loose on exhaust resonator", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
and I couldnt seem to break it loose. Ive found that its a 12 mm bolt. I didnt put 100% strength into it cuz I didnt want to break anything. So I thought Id ask here first. Im gonna take the back part to my muffler guy and have them fab a flowmaster setup that bolts on (only $125 he said). I can get a bigger ratchet handle and put 100% into it, but should I turn from the top (bolt head) or bottom (nut/washer). Is the nut on the bottom (seen in pic) attached to the clamp, so I can only turn the bolt head?
Thanks,
file014
my experience has been that its easier to break the bolt head loose rather than the nut. you also might try dousing it in wd-40 or a different lube spray
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and I couldnt seem to break it loose. Ive found that its a 12 mm bolt. I didnt put 100% strength into it cuz I didnt want to break anything. So I thought Id ask here first. Im gonna take the back part to my muffler guy and have them fab a flowmaster setup that bolts on (only $125 he said). I can get a bigger ratchet handle and put 100% into it, but should I turn from the top (bolt head) or bottom (nut/washer). Is the nut on the bottom (seen in pic) attached to the clamp, so I can only turn the bolt head?
Thanks,
file014
Don't loosen the nut side, loosen the bold side. The 'nut' is welded to the clamp. I learned that the hard way.
can't see the nut, but if it's like the majority of the others on the truck, it's spot welded to the clamp. soak with rust penetrant, let sit, then get a 6-point socket and give it hell. if the nut breaks loose, just use a wrench on the nut side while you turn the other. i have yet to encounter a problem with any of the other 12mm bolts and their spot-welded nuts, there are quite a few under the truck.
if you bust the entire clamp somehow, i'm sure clamps like that are pretty cheap at autozone etc. (but call before you wreck it lol), looks like it's just a standard clamp.
My clamp had come loose and rotated on the pipe so that it ended up hanging down. About a week ago I soaked it with penetrant and was able to easily tighten it up.
I was afraid to put WD-40 on it in case it lit on FAHR!!! (fire) when driving. Probably a ridiculous thought, but oh well. Ill give it another shot when I have time, and Ill use a bigger handle. Ive though about going exhaust-less so I can have loudness before I get my flowmaster!!!
Oh I wouldn't take that off unless you really are sure you're going to never need another one. Thats a ball clamp, and its pretty unique (size) to the truck. I talked to the muffler shop guy yesterday about having my Spintech installed, and he was pretty adamant about not screwing with that clamp. He was going to cut the pipe after the clamp. If you do, I think you may need to order that from the Toyota dealer if you ever need one.
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Oh I wouldn't take that off unless you really are sure you're going to never need another one. Thats a ball clamp, and its pretty unique (size) to the truck. I talked to the muffler shop guy yesterday about having my Spintech installed, and he was pretty adamant about not screwing with that clamp. He was going to cut the pipe after the clamp. If you do, I think you may need to order that from the Toyota dealer if you ever need one.
I was just planning on having my muffler shop bend a pipe with an FM 40 on it that clamps on at this spot. Im not removing the clamp, just the current clamp-back exhaust. I really dont want my original exhaust cut up in case I want to put it back on.
Tip #1 - Use a 6 point socket to help prevent rounding
Tip #2 - Use a real penetrating spray, not WD-40. WD-40 is a water displacement lube, not a penetrating spray. It will help some times but there are better products...
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Breaking nut loose on exhaust resonator
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Thanks for the replies
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