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This is a discussion thread titled "DRIVE BY WIRE 2003 Tundra!!! (throttle cable)", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2004, 11:45 AM
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Default WOT power at all RPM’s

I have a unichip -- if I take off normal the truck won't hit 9 lbs of boost even if I push it to the floor -- I have power but it does not scream and it will crank up slowly. If I get on it from the gate the truck immediately hits 7 pounds of boost and climbs to 9+ schmokin -- this is kind of cool because when I drive normal the truck responds conservatively – my wife cannot tell how fast and powerful my truck is – LOL

I can barely get scratch if I do not power brake -- I power braked once (a little) and squealed the tires -- but I let off on the gas -- I am not sure how far it would smoke the tires -- might find out someday -- I can get second gear scratch almost every time – however, it is hard to hear it chirp, because the truck is howling –

The unichip gave me full WOT power at all RPM’s (when I want it) -- glen
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2004, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenhaven
I have a unichip -- if I take off normal the truck won't hit 9 lbs of boost even if I push it to the floor -- I have power but it does not scream and it will crank up slowly. If I get on it from the gate the truck immediately hits 7 pounds of boost and climbs to 9+ schmokin -- this is kind of cool because when I drive normal the truck responds conservatively – my wife cannot tell how fast and powerful my truck is – LOL

I can barely get scratch if I do not power brake -- I power braked once (a little) and squealed the tires -- but I let off on the gas -- I am not sure how far it would smoke the tires -- might find out someday -- I can get second gear scratch almost every time – however, it is hard to hear it chirp, because the truck is howling –

The unichip gave me full WOT power at all RPM’s (when I want it) -- glen
Glenn,
Hey.. good to hear all is ok.. mostly. Wanted to chime in. Yup... most everything your saying is what I see here. If I slowly roll on the pedal, it creeps up to 8-8.5. If I "mash" on the pedal (a southern' term) then it pops up to 6.5 and then creeps up to 8-8.5. I can burn the tires all the way thru 1st if I mash the pedal.. tire spin is a problem. I need a custom tune to complete the Unichip, BUT... there is no one on the east coast that I will take it to and Jack is Literally as far away from me as he could be! So, here I am.. running on a "general" tune that does pretty good. If I could work out a trip or SOMETHING to get my truck there and tuned.. it would be the final detail to an awesome truck. Anyway... who knows!

Just wanted to chime in!

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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2004, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenhaven
I have a unichip -- if I take off normal the truck won't hit 9 lbs of boost even if I push it to the floor -- I have power but it does not scream and it will crank up slowly. If I get on it from the gate the truck immediately hits 7 pounds of boost and climbs to 9+ schmokin -- this is kind of cool because when I drive normal the truck responds conservatively – my wife cannot tell how fast and powerful my truck is – LOL

I can barely get scratch if I do not power brake -- I power braked once (a little) and squealed the tires -- but I let off on the gas -- I am not sure how far it would smoke the tires -- might find out someday -- I can get second gear scratch almost every time – however, it is hard to hear it chirp, because the truck is howling –

The unichip gave me full WOT power at all RPM’s (when I want it) -- glen

for some reason i thought that uni chip did not fix the problem of wot at all rpms?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2004, 03:36 PM
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Default What are your 0-60 times

What have you guys found to be your 0-60 times over stock with the modifications, of the uni chip and or S/C ? I noticed some post way back on the 2000 stock in the 7 range 0-60 and 14 range in the Quarter mile. with 245 HP
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2005, 04:01 PM
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Default Sequoia '04

My '04 Sequoia has a similar (if not identical) assembly with all of the undesirable traits mentioned in this thread including one that drives me insane. The sensitivity of the throttle is so high that unless I really ease into the throttle from a stop it jumps you forward in a lurch...at least once you get used to this you can deal with it and drive smoothly around town. However, try 4-wheeling or driving a bumpy surface while trying to manage a smooth throttle and good luck...the more bounce the more you tap the throttle and lurch around. It's useless in these situations where you want to crawl through some obsticles. Does anyone know how I can reduce sensitivity...or make the ramp up through the range more gradual? My dealer, of course, says it's impossible and won't tamper with liability related issues.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2005, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstoecker
My '04 Sequoia has a similar (if not identical) assembly with all of the undesirable traits mentioned in this thread including one that drives me insane. The sensitivity of the throttle is so high that unless I really ease into the throttle from a stop it jumps you forward in a lurch...at least once you get used to this you can deal with it and drive smoothly around town. However, try 4-wheeling or driving a bumpy surface while trying to manage a smooth throttle and good luck...the more bounce the more you tap the throttle and lurch around. It's useless in these situations where you want to crawl through some obsticles. Does anyone know how I can reduce sensitivity...or make the ramp up through the range more gradual? My dealer, of course, says it's impossible and won't tamper with liability related issues.
I have the same issues 4 wheeling in the DC....the throttle is WAY TOO touchy. My thoughts are the throttle pedal itself is just too soft....maybe a differant spring ratio (stiffer) in the positioner would make it more managable crawling and trying to ease over very bumpy terrian. The only problem I can think of regarding this might be a sore leg from the stiffer gas pedal on a long drive......but that's what the Cruise is for!
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2005, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightning
I have an 01, and I can't stand the fly by wire throttle. I know it's good for the engine and for reliablility, but I hate it when I can't get all the power out of the motor when I need it. I drive on hilly two lane roads where you need all the power you can get when passing semi's. There are times when you can floor the Tundra, but it won't accelerate well, and sometimes it's okay. It dangerous (and embarrassing) to abort a passing maneuver and scurry behind the vehicle you were trying to pass. Besides the lack of take-off power, you also don't get the instantaneous engine feedback (if you ride sportbikes you'll know what I'm talking about) with fly by wire; it's like there's an invisible 'rubber band' between the throttle cable and the butterly valve. I will never get a performance vehicle with fly by wire throttle, at least if they program it like the Tundra's system. Too conservative for me.

I know what you mean here. Sometimes i will want to uh, takeoff after rolling through a stoplight or whatever (not from a stop) and the damn thing wont downshift. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesnt. I have found that if you literally stomp it, it will downshift but if you gradually increase the throttle it will only downshift one gear. I would be happy if the truck downshifted easier and juiced the engine when i put the pedal to the floor but i guess its ok since it probbly saves my gas mileage. lol and i have a 2000 so i dont even wanna know what its like for you guys with strictly drive by wire.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2005, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haoleb
I know what you mean here. Sometimes i will want to uh, takeoff after rolling through a stoplight or whatever (not from a stop) and the damn thing wont downshift. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesnt. I have found that if you literally stomp it, it will downshift but if you gradually increase the throttle it will only downshift one gear. I would be happy if the truck downshifted easier and juiced the engine when i put the pedal to the floor but i guess its ok since it probbly saves my gas mileage. lol and i have a 2000 so i dont even wanna know what its like for you guys with strictly drive by wire.
Hmm... how much is the unichip? Can i get it even if i dont have the S/C? Will it help in responsiveness? How about reliability? Will it cut down on that? Gas mileage?

thanks
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2005, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haoleb
I know what you mean here. Sometimes i will want to uh, takeoff after rolling through a stoplight or whatever (not from a stop) and the damn thing wont downshift. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesnt. I have found that if you literally stomp it, it will downshift but if you gradually increase the throttle it will only downshift one gear. I would be happy if the truck downshifted easier and juiced the engine when i put the pedal to the floor but i guess its ok since it probbly saves my gas mileage. lol and i have a 2000 so i dont even wanna know what its like for you guys with strictly drive by wire.
I don't feel the drive by wire is that bad. The one in the tundra is much better than the drive by wire system in the maxima I had. That one really pissed me off. It was hard to find the gear I wanted and it was really jumpy.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2005, 06:57 PM
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My '03 will not even come close to burning the tires. If I floor it from a dead stop it just kind of sluggishly (even SOUNDS sluggish) gets up to about 10 or 15mph and then it starts to take off. (I do not even have a limited slip, but maybe toyota programs the ecu differently if you do, and thats why some people with LSD's can burn out and I can't). If I am going around a turn it is very easy to get the right rear spinning. But in a straight line, it obviously isn't giving me WOT until 2.5k rpms or so (It will actually accelerate faster if I go about 3/4 pedal until I get over 10 to 15 mph). Or, maybe my mods have just killed all my low end torque and a Unichip could correct this. But even without mods it wouldnt do it.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2006, 08:32 AM
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Default Re: DRIVE BY WIRE 2003 Tundra!!! (throttle cable)

Yeah I have a 2006 Double cab. I can hold the brake and hit the gas and it'll spin both the tires (limited slip as well) I raced my good friend that has a 2006 Titan smoked him off the line everytime by 2 truck lengths (we raced 10 times). He then cought up with me but not till we were at 85mph. He then passed me.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2007, 03:35 PM
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Default Re: DRIVE BY WIRE 2003 Tundra!!! (throttle cable)

Quote:
Originally Posted by nhparrot View Post
2uz-fe engine
The ETCS-i (Electronic Control System-intelligent) continues to be used from the ’02 model. However, on the ’03 model, the accelerator cable has been discontinued and an accelerator position sensor has been provided on the accelerator pedal. A no-contact type throttle position sensor has been adopted on all models.
Can you give me more information on this. I am trying to build a system in which I want to sense when the throtle is depressed, either by my foot or by the Cruise control. Any hints on how or where to put a sensor there?

Mark.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2007, 07:39 PM
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Wink Re: DRIVE BY WIRE 2003 Tundra!!! (throttle cable)

The TPS is simply that, a pedal connected to a sensor which simply changes the resistance and thus the voltage it conveys to the ECU.

Theres some information on it in the Toyota Tundra service manual.

Sanosuke!
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