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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Differential oil change procedure", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Finally got to test it out offroad, well dirt anyways. Chose a ditch that would hang or lift 1 or 2 wheels. Went in at an angle and it went right through in and out, no 4wd needed. Did powerbraked it so the rear wheels would dig in till up to the axle, then tried to get out without 4wd. And ofcouse it got out, not as quick as 4wd would've done but still got out. Superb traction, but too aggressive for daily street driving. I love it.
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JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights
nope, they use a reusable metal washer-style gasket.
Nope, I think according to alldata you have to put a NEW gasket. If anybody else can confirm that? Same goes for front and rear diff, transfer case and transmission. I believe also that as a general rule any gasket that made of copper, aluminum or plastic would have to be replaced every time. Now of course it may work for couple of times but if you have a choice I would rather replace it.
Finally got my powertrx. A bit different from what I expected. I was thinking more grapefruit size but rather it's apple size. Oh well. Will be tackling the job today.
what lube did you end up using with the powertrax? did you do the front with a powertrax too? and last but not least, where did you buy the powertrax and what was the cost?
__________________ HAVE YOU DRIVEN OVER A FORD LATELY?
Team West SAWS (cranked up to 3.25")
Total Chaos UCA
ORS Manual hub kit
reese front receiver hitch
10,000 lb. winch on receiver hitch
Warn Quick connects front and rear
rear brake porportioning valve mod
3" perfomance products body lift
skyjacker AAL
wheelers urithane kit for front swaybar and steering rack
BFG AT's
Eagle101 wheels
CB radio W/ dual fiberglass 48" ant.
I got it from Rocky Road for a few cents under $380 shipped. I only did the rear and I used Mobile1 75-90. One suggestion, if this is your first time, read and reread te direction and understand it 100% before install. I didn't run into any problems but the differential weighing an unexpected 50lbs caught me by surprise when I pulled it out.
I've read that TRD is making a LSD for the front differential of our trucks. That's the route I'm gonna take for the front differential. This will be easier for my winter driving here.
__________________ Stuffs:
JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners, LED tail lights
For everyone's benefit here are the part numbers for the gaskets that should be replaced when performing a drain and fill of your gear boxes. My Toyota parts guy was not well versed so it took two trips to get this right.
I drained and filled all my gear boxes with AMSOIL Severe Gear SAE 75W90 Synthetic Extreme Pressure Lubricant (SVG-QT). I added AMSOIL Slip-Lock Differential Additive to the rear end even though AMSOIL states "Compatible with convential and synthetic gear lubes and most limited slip differentials. If limited slip chatter occurs, add AMSOIL Slip-Lock additive." I did not feel like crawling back underneath this winter only to drain enough gear oil out to add the 4 oz. of additive.
I haven't done the transmission yet. I may just have the dealer do a BG trainny flush and fill, then on the next flush at 60K use the AMSOIL trainny fluid. (Have had no problems with it in my GM cars/van)
Have fun!
- Max
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven
grunt ugh! ug ug, grunt! lucky for you, i did this last night .
...get a 24mm socket and a breaker bar. attack the rear fill plug first (never go for the drain plug first, if it comes out and not the fill, yer up a certain creek), once it's out, attack the drain plug. clean both plugs (they both contain a magnet), replace drain plug (torque to 39ft#), add ~3L oil (add until it just barely dribbles out the hole), replace fill plug (39ft#). while you're at it, extend the rear diff breather up to the engine compartment, it's good for your immortal soul, or at least for the rear diff.
now grab a 10mm hex key on a 3/8" drive, a socket wrench and a breaker bar. drop the front skid plate so you can jump the front diff, and break loose the fill plug, its in front. if it doesn't come out at once, curse at it, and it'll come clean. make sure to bang your knuckles a few times on the crossmembers and engine block--gloves are handy here, 'specially the real snug 'mechanix' gloves. once that's out, remove the drain plug, it faces the driver's side. clean plugs, replace drain (48ft#), pump 1.15L fluid in to front diff using a fi-dollah diff lube pump from napautoboys or wherever, stop when a little bit dribbles out, replace fill plug (29ft#), clean up dribbles, move to t-case.
t-case plugs are both at back of case, remove fill, then drain, clean and replace drain (27ft#), fill w/1L fluid, replace fill plug (27ft#), clean and degrease everything, replace skid plate if you had to drop it to do the front diff.
FYI, These were for a 2003 Tundra Access Cab, V8, 4X4. I don't think that the part numbers have changed between 2000 and 2003, but some may have for the 2004-2005 models.
A word of caution to the pre August 2003 Tundra owners. Toyota issued a TSB: DL002-03 regarding the rear axle seals. Pre-TSB seals worked with dino rear axle fluids, but some seals leaked the synthetic fluids. Mine is a 2002 and the passenger side seal started leaking as soon as I changed to Mobil 1 gear oil. The TSB is for a change in the design of the seal.
My options are to change back to dino then clean up the mess on the brake shoes and drums, or pay nearly $300 to get the seal replaced as I am just out of the warranty mileage for tlhe drivetrain.
There is more info on this site if you do a search using "axle seal" as search words. Good Luck.
My '01 has not leaked with either Amsoil synthetic gear oil nor Schaeffer synthetic blend gear oil.
Ken
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TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
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Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
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Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
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Is the warranty mileage on the drivetrain different than the 3/36 warranty? Can I get some more work outta my dealer for free (already made 'em do the O2 sensors)?
My warranty reads 5 years or 60,000 miles for drivetrain, including engine, transmission, rearend, seals, etc. Unfortunately, my truck has 64,000 miles on it and I noticed the seal leaking around 58,000 miles, just after I switched to Mobil 1. When I noticed the seal leaking, I was in the process of making a long trip and didn't have time to stop and get truck to dealer. My mother had just had a heart attack and I needed to travel from Texas to be with her.
The TSB was to notify mechanics of a change in the design of the seal.
Just so you know, I have a bulletin against my '03 Sequoia which says that for 'special conditions', the differential oil change requirements are a s follows:
1) TOYOTA Geguine Synthetic Gear Oil - 30,000 miles.
2) ANYTHING ELSE - 5,000 miles. Specifically included in this group are synthetics by other manufactuers.
What's funnier than that (5,000 after replacing original fluid with Mobil 1 at significant cost) is that TOYOTA of Corona didn't know that there was such a thing. Referred me to Riverside, and they've got "plenty" in stock. What does that say about my local service department?
So tell me, is that a friggin lame bulletin, or what? It's dated October 2003, so it's not like it's new or anything.
Pretty sure I'm gonna leave my $50 in Mobil 1 in there for the remainder of my planned 30K interval.
BTW, I just flushed the tranny last night using a TS procedure. I'll definitely be renewing my TS membership!!!
__________________
2003 TOYOTA Sequoia SR5: K&N FIPK in attic for now, TRD cat-back
2000 TOYOTA Epic S22: Powered by Lexus 1UZ w/VVTi
1995 TOYOTA Hilux: 22RE and 190K (on original timing chain, Lord have mercy)
grunt ugh! ug ug, grunt! lucky for you, i did this last night .
...get a 24mm socket and a breaker bar. attack the rear fill plug first (never go for the drain plug first, if it comes out and not the fill, yer up a certain creek), once it's out, attack the drain plug. clean both plugs (they both contain a magnet), replace drain plug (torque to 39ft#), add ~3L oil (add until it just barely dribbles out the hole), replace fill plug (39ft#). while you're at it, extend the rear diff breather up to the engine compartment, it's good for your immortal soul, or at least for the rear diff.
now grab a 10mm hex key on a 3/8" drive, a socket wrench and a breaker bar. drop the front skid plate so you can jump the front diff, and break loose the fill plug, its in front. if it doesn't come out at once, curse at it, and it'll come clean. make sure to bang your knuckles a few times on the crossmembers and engine block--gloves are handy here, 'specially the real snug 'mechanix' gloves. once that's out, remove the drain plug, it faces the driver's side. clean plugs, replace drain (48ft#), pump 1.15L fluid in to front diff using a fi-dollah diff lube pump from napautoboys or wherever, stop when a little bit dribbles out, replace fill plug (29ft#), clean up dribbles, move to t-case.
t-case plugs are both at back of case, remove fill, then drain, clean and replace drain (27ft#), fill w/1L fluid, replace fill plug (27ft#), clean and degrease everything, replace skid plate if you had to drop it to do the front diff.
now kick your feet up and have a beer.
-sean with a shop manual
Sean, awesome instructions. I love doing a job and knowing what tools I will need BEFORE climbing under the truck! Just changed the fluid in both diffs and xfer case. Job was EXACTLY as you described and the fluid capacities were right on. Good work my friend!
My '01 has not leaked with either Amsoil synthetic gear oil nor Schaeffer synthetic blend gear oil.
Ken
The local Schaeffer rep recommended Product #267 80W-90 for the differentials and transfer case, and #204AS AT fluid. I am having a hard time ensuring that these are Toyota Equivalents. Are these ok?
.
