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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Timing belt replacement", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I found out that the timing belt from Toyota has matchmarks on it that when aligned with a mark on the Cracnk (set to O or TDC) and on the cams will provide the correct timing. The only thing that concerns me now are the need for various STS (special service tools) and the instructions have you removing the crank and cam pulleys (2) I don't really see this as neccesary...althouhg unsure. Would really like to talk to someone who's done one of these.
I found out that the timing belt from Toyota has matchmarks on it that when aligned with a mark on the Cracnk (set to O or TDC) and on the cams will provide the correct timing. The only thing that concerns me now are the need for various STS (special service tools) and the instructions have you removing the crank and cam pulleys (2) I don't really see this as neccesary...althouhg unsure. Would really like to talk to someone who's done one of these.
I attempted to change the timing belt on my old Camry V6 once. I never did complete the job because it was impossible for me to loosen the crankshaft pulley nut. It was frozen onto the crankshaft. I believe this is the hardest part of the job.
I attempted to change the timing belt on my old Camry V6 once. I never did complete the job because it was impossible for me to loosen the crankshaft pulley nut. It was frozen onto the crankshaft. I believe this is the hardest part of the job.
THIS IS A DUMB QUESTION BUT I HAVE TO ASK. DID YOU KNOW THAT THE CRANK SHAFT PULLEY BOLT HAS LEFT HAND THREADS?
KEVIN
THIS IS A DUMB QUESTION BUT I HAVE TO ASK. DID YOU KNOW THAT THE CRANK SHAFT PULLEY BOLT HAS LEFT HAND THREADS?
KEVIN
I don't believe that I did know at the time. It has been a year and a half since I attempted the job. I was strictly going by the Haynes manual which didn't mention anything about the threads being left handed.
I don't believe that I did know at the time. It has been a year and a half since I attempted the job. I was strictly going by the Haynes manual which didn't mention anything about the threads being left handed.
I KNOW HOW YOU FEEL MOST BOOKS LEAVE THAT TID BIT OF INFO OUT.
MANY MOONS AGO I WAS CHANGING A TIMING CHAIN & GEARS OUT ON MY SMALL BLOCK CHEVY AND I HAD BEEN PULLING AND FIGHTING THIS HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT FOR AWHILE AND ABOUT TO GO POSTAL WHEN MY FRIEND COMES UP TO TELL THAT IT'S LEFT HAND THREADS, BOY THOSE ARE THE ONES YOU NEVER FORGET.
KEVIN
MANY MOONS AGO I WAS CHANGING A TIMING CHAIN & GEARS OUT ON MY SMALL BLOCK CHEVY AND I HAD BEEN PULLING AND FIGHTING THIS HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT FOR AWHILE AND ABOUT TO GO POSTAL WHEN MY FRIEND COMES UP TO TELL THAT IT'S LEFT HAND THREADS, BOY THOSE ARE THE ONES YOU NEVER FORGET.
Must not have been too many moons ago, because all the old ones had pressed on harmonic balancers, with no bolt. When did they change? I think the last one I did was about a '68 or '69.
Quote:
At worst, if I get in over my head I tow it to Toyota and save myself some bucks on the removal of everything forward of the engine.
It doesn't work that way! They will charge you extra if you bring them a "basket case." Do some searches on "timing belt." There are some guys who have done their own, and listed all the part numbers that you will need.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
I did mine a few months ago. It was a long job. The toyota manual has pretty good instructions, Getting the crank pulley off was difficult, I used a long breaker bar on the bottom of the frame and just hit the starter for a second and the bolt came out. I had already taken out all the spark plugs. The book showed what position to have the crank in to keep the cams from rotating on their own from spring pressure, and the belt had marks that lined up perfectly with the sprockets. I did the water pump, mine was leaking, but I didn't realize it until I got the belt covers off. You will have to remove most of the accessories, but I did not have to let out the freon - I was able to unbolt the front of the compressor, and loosen the back to give enough space to remove the fan bearing support. I removed the alternator, but left it sitting on the cross member about 3 inches from where it was mounted. The last couple bolts that loosen the power steering pump can be reached through the holes in the drive pulley, some of the bolts hold the pump itself together - don't loosen those.
The hardest part I ran into was recompressing the tensioner spring. It requires (I think) about 1200 pounds of pressure to push it back into place, then you stick an allen key through the hole. If you do not have a press - this would be very hard to do. Even with the press I was nervous with this part, it ended up ruining the allen key - I didn't pull it out fast enough and it bent the end of the key - I had to use a pair of vice grips to get it out.
When I got a quote from Toyota to do it here, it was going to be $860 - that included the water pump, all timing pulleys, etc. I did not replace the pulleys - just the belt and the water pump, and the main radiator hoses.
Mine had about 140K when I did it.
Don't attempt it without the toyota manual, and some time. I have a pretty good amount of mechanical experience, and it was still a long job. It took me a full day.
I'm over a 100k...and wondering about what happens if the timing belt pops. Do the pistons make contact with the valves and bend them to high hell?? (Previous experience with a Turbo 4Runner!)
Must not have been too many moons ago, because all the old ones had pressed on harmonic balancers, with no bolt. When did they change? I think the last one I did was about a '68 or '69.
It doesn't work that way! They will charge you extra if you bring them a "basket case." Do some searches on "timing belt." There are some guys who have done their own, and listed all the part numbers that you will need.
DUDE BOY,
68 CAMARO 350,327,OR 283 ALL THE SAME, PRESSED ON BALANCER WITH A HOLD DOWN BOLT IN THE CENTER RECESS AREA OF THE BALANCER. THAT IS WHERE YOU MOUNT THE TOOL TO REPRESS THE BALANCER BACK ON THE END OF THE CRANK, I JUST FINISHED HELPING A BUD ON A 350 FOR HIS CHEVELLE A MONTH AGO.
KEVIN
I'm over a 100k...and wondering about what happens if the timing belt pops. Do the pistons make contact with the valves and bend them to high hell?? (Previous experience with a Turbo 4Runner!)
Yes the V8 is an interference engine.....unfortunately for us!!!!
Thanks for your response, your insights are very helpful...
Did you have to remove the idler pulleys and crankshaft pulley to get the belt off? It would seem that the crank pulley (for the fanbelt) has to come off to access the #3 timing belt cover, but the directions are very unclear about why you would have to remove the main cranshaft pulley for the timing belt (thoughts?!?!). I really don't have a lot of money right now, but I have tons of tools and time...
If the tensioner is the limiting factor, can't I just take this over to a shop and have them press it for me--installing my own allen key to hold the tension? The manual lists between 220-2000 feet of pressure....Will a vise work?
Also, do you know if this can be done without the various special service tools listed in the Toyota manual? Standard crankshaft pulley tool from auto parts store enough?
BTW-The Toyota manual is very good, but the pictures in Haynes are much better--between the both of them, I think I am about 1/2 the way there toward making the assessment...
Right now, I am about 70% in favor of doing it myself...
Yep - the crank pulley has to come off just so you can get the lowest cover off. I used a regular puller to get the pulley off. I think I did have to remove one idler pulley, but I don't remember why. One mistake I made when pulling the crank pulley was that I threaded the puller bolts into the crank pulley too far, and cracked the bottom timing belt cover. Nothing major, but worth looking out for.
Thanks again, man---I really appreciate your assistance. Would you mind if I emailed you privately in case I had any questions? I don't want to be a bother--but an extra voice might be helpful if I encounter any major issues.
One more question--if you don't mind--
Do you know if the tensioner can be preloaded with a bench vise or is it just too big? If this is a problem, I suppose I can drive drive out to the shop with a second vehicle and get them to press it for me...
Yep - you can PM me with any questions, I'll try to answer them as well as I can.
As for the tensioner - it was a cylinder about 6 inches long with a small shaft sticking out, if you have a big vise that would probably work - just make sure everything is square. The piston you are pushing back in is very small for the amount of pressure you have to put on it. Also it moves very slowly no matter how much pressure you put on it, so be patient.
I changed the timing belt myself at 90K. Since this is an interference motor, if the timing belt breaks, you are in for major engine damage. For that reason, the dealer recommends changing the water pump, idlers, cam and crank seals, etc. at the same time.
It is sage advice. I doubt the water pump would make it to the next timing belt change interval (180K). Same for the seals, idlers, etc.
The labor runs approximately $500-$600 at the dealer, so you'll save a bunch by doing it yourself.
It is a real straight forward job. Time consuming, but not difflicult at all. The only snag is getting the crank bolt off. I have air tools, so it was simple, but if you don't have air tools, you'll have to make a tool to bolt to the crank in order to hold it while you loosen the bolt. Some folks just stick a screwdriver in the fly wheel through the inspection hole....but that always makes me nervous about chipping a tooth.
If you have any questions, just PM me.
leadsled
Here is the parts list:
13568-59095 timing Belt $48.07
13503-50011 idler S/A, Timing $73.94
13540-50030 tensioner Assy $46.47
13505-50030 idler S/A Timing $72.99
90311-38065 seal, type cam 2X $11.90
90311-43006 seal, type crank $7.32
16100-59275 water pump $112.51
16572-0F010 lower radiator hose $20.61
16571-0F010 upper radiator hose $13.41
90916-03100 thermostat $10.91 (TRD thermo 160 deg. $45.00)
16346-50010 gasket, thermo $2.97
90080-91172 belt, v-ribbed $19.07
16620-0W036 tensioner assy. $163.51
