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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Timing belt replacement", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
For the record, I had Toyota do it...Not sure if I chickened out or if I got my tax refund at the right time, sure didn't want to spend the better part of a weekend butt cracking in the driveway.
Final price was $989, which included a new water pump and thermostat. I had a $100 coupon and another for a free rental car. They also lubed my driveline as my grease gun doesn't hit the zerc good enough, and gave me a new front diff fill plug as mine was stripped.
Would really have liked to do this myself, but in hindsight kinda glad I didn't...
Do it yourself. Great experience. If you are having issues about turning the pulley, remove all the spark plugs. JUST MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A HAYNES BOOK, TOOLS, AND THAT YOUR CYLINDER NO. 1 IS ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE. Everything should line up. The gears and pulleys can move 45 degree in any direction with out no problems.
As far as water pump. They are good for 160K. Depending on the coolant you are using.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Donofrio
I looked at Chilton's and I am seriously thinking of doing this myself. I mean it looks like a several hours to remove the radiator, serp. belt, accessory system, cover, and pump but once you get the timing belt cover off and the water pump out, it looks like just some seals and RTV. If I matchmark the crank and cam so that there is no movement--is it unreasonable to assume that one could do it themselves? At worst, if I get in over my head I tow it to Toyota and save myself some bucks on the removal of everything forward of the engine.
My thought is: Cranks are pretty hard to move by hand--but what about the camshafts??? I ain't no mechanic but have done engine replacements with buddies on older Toyota pickups (NEVER even touched the guts yet-heads, valves, pistons, crank, etc) and apart from turning tons of bolts and minor issues...the work *seems* straighforward enough...PLEASE, someone chime in and give me your thoughts...I would gladly take photos and post the procedure, but need someone with some experience who can tell me if this is HUGE mistake or not...
JUST MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A HAYNES BOOK, TOOLS, AND THAT YOUR CYLINDER NO. 1 IS ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE. Everything should line up. The gears and pulleys can move 45 degree in any direction with out no problems.
How?
Why not put a paint mark on the cam gears & heads and on the crank gear and block?...they we can always return to this point.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
My mechanic just quoted me $807 to use Toyota parts to replace the timing belt, water pump, seals and tensioners. The price, less the seals and tensioners was $750.
My question is, my truck is almost 5 years old and I currenty have 81,000 miles on it, is 90K miles the magic number for replacement?
My mechanic just quoted me $807 to use Toyota parts to replace the timing belt, water pump, seals and tensioners. The price, less the seals and tensioners was $750.
My question is, my truck is almost 5 years old and I currenty have 81,000 miles on it, is 90K miles the magic number for replacement?
90K depends on your usage. Mine spent a few years in NJ and gets beaten on. I was puckering at 100K, I would say you could go a few miles over 90K but I would try to stick to it...
PS-My belt looked in very good shape when it came out, my feeling is that I could have waited even longer---
PS-That's a good price, mine was $989 and didn't include the tensioner.
i'd be looking for 400$ worth of "5 point safety check" and "rotate tires" kind of stuff.
No kidding.
My wife's Echo's 15,000 mile oil change turned into a 15,000 mile "service" and cost her $75.
Ya... $75 to change the oil and air filter and look at a bunch of stuff that isn't worn out.
I've now got nearly 62k on my '03 Tundra and I've done the air filter, brakes, tires, plugs, and oil... everything recommended in the manual. I've spent more on wax and detailing supplies than I have on parts.
__________________ 2003 SR5 TRD V8
Better Built toolbox / Limited leather / Power outlet mod / Maplight mod / Horn mod / Wheelskins leather wheel wrap / RS3200 Plus / Rebadged w/TRD / Bully Nerf bars / '05 OEM Taillights / Clear corners / Tint / Factory Woodgrain kit / Gentex EC Mirror / Gaylord's Toolbox-Lid / MB Overdrives with Revos / Muthco Signal Mirrors / Sport Grille / TRD Dual Exhaust / Camry Nav System
It is sage advice. I doubt the water pump would make it to the next timing belt change interval (180K). Same for the seals, idlers, etc.
Huh? What happened to Toyota quality? I put 225k on my '94 pickup's 22RE and it was 100% original except for the calipers and exhaust manifold. Never had the valve cover off. It even had the original coolant.
It never lost a bit of fluid that I didn't let out myself. It would burn about a quart every 5k, but I didn't change the oil often enough.
90k on the timing belt... I wouldn't 'f' around with that. I've lost Ford belts at 65k and lost Geo belts at 110. My Tun will be getting a new belt at 90k. I'm still undecided about the water pump... depends on how hard they try to slam me on the package price.
__________________ 2003 SR5 TRD V8
Better Built toolbox / Limited leather / Power outlet mod / Maplight mod / Horn mod / Wheelskins leather wheel wrap / RS3200 Plus / Rebadged w/TRD / Bully Nerf bars / '05 OEM Taillights / Clear corners / Tint / Factory Woodgrain kit / Gentex EC Mirror / Gaylord's Toolbox-Lid / MB Overdrives with Revos / Muthco Signal Mirrors / Sport Grille / TRD Dual Exhaust / Camry Nav System
Huh? What happened to Toyota quality? I put 225k on my '94 pickup's 22RE and it was 100% original except for the calipers and exhaust manifold. Never had the valve cover off. It even had the original coolant.
It never lost a bit of fluid that I didn't let out myself. It would burn about a quart every 5k, but I didn't change the oil often enough.
90k on the timing belt... I wouldn't 'f' around with that. I've lost Ford belts at 65k and lost Geo belts at 110. My Tun will be getting a new belt at 90k. I'm still undecided about the water pump... depends on how hard they try to slam me on the package price.
re: the water pump. When they took mine out the 'weep hole' was completely crusted up with pink crust from the Toyota radiator fluid-it was about 75% blocked. It would seem the way the pump was designed you'd get pump failure if the weep hole were completely clogged--but it was hard for me to tell. What sold me was when the service tech told me that the labor charges are the about the same for the pump and for the belt...
re: the water pump. When they took mine out the 'weep hole' was completely crusted up with pink crust from the Toyota radiator fluid-it was about 75% blocked. It would seem the way the pump was designed you'd get pump failure if the weep hole were completely clogged--but it was hard for me to tell. What sold me was when the service tech told me that the labor charges are the about the same for the pump and for the belt...
Shouldn't the weep hole be dry? If there's any coolant coming out of the weep hole, doesn't that mean that the seal is beginning to leak? In that case, the pump needed renewing because of the leak.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
My truck was closing in on 82,000 km and the timing belt was in the back of my mind as being something to do at a future day...fast forward to... just got my supercharger installed...Brand new belt. no such belt to replace now. Another benefit to installing the TRD s/c.
__________________
Unichip'd TRD Supercharger & 5.9 Overboost Crank Pulley,TRD Boost guage and Oak color matched pod,TRD LSD,Valvebody Upgrade by IPT in NY, JBA headers,Y pipe, K&N(Evol) SS catback exhaust, Helwig Rear antisway bar, Rear custom Leafpack,TRD Coils,Cornfed Spacers's with Y/B Bilsteins,Westin Outdoorsman Bushbar and Nerf Tubes, TRD Ivan Stewart 16X8 Rims and 285/75/R16 Revo AT tires.Pioneer 5500 MP3 Head unit/Q-Logic sub enclosure with dual crossfire subs/ 700 watts of Crossfire Amps/Bazooka 6.5's and 5.25's in Kickpanels/ CodeAlarm Remote starter/antitheft system.
My truck was closing in on 82,000 km and the timing belt was in the back of my mind as being something to do at a future day...fast forward to... just got my supercharger installed...Brand new belt. no such belt to replace now. Another benefit to installing the TRD s/c.
uhhh....I think you only replace the fan (aka serpentine) belt with the S/C. You will still need to do the timing belt as per the manufacturer's recommendations...
Fan belt=$30 and about 20 mins
Timing belt=$$$$ and about 6 hours worth of labor
PS-Congrats on the S/C though...I have major league induction envy
Shouldn't the weep hole be dry? If there's any coolant coming out of the weep hole, doesn't that mean that the seal is beginning to leak? In that case, the pump needed renewing because of the leak.
Ken
I think the function of the weep hole means it is supposed to drip a bit...I never saw any fluid leak but I think it has something to do with the teeny weeny bit of coolant that would weep from around the shaft as the thing spins. I asked the tech about the accumulated pink crust and he said that all water pumps look like that when he changes them...with one exception, sometimes they look worse. He said when the weep hole clogs..the unit fails. It could be bs...but if they were trying to create FUD they got me, for the pump and a new stat...
Pricing for Belt & Pump Install
Linear Mode
