transmission flush

nhparrot · #1 (**permalink**) 03-28-2002, 02:47 PM

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Topic: transmission flush
hovisimo
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posted 03-19-2002 03:01 PM
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alas, the topic has magically been opened again, after it had been closed i re-posted it.

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-Ryan

my page

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Posts: 248 | From: Pennsylvania | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Rubix
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posted 03-19-2002 11:53 AM
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Thanks Glenn. I thought maybe there was a filter in there, but if it is just a strainer, that solves my dilema. Thanks again for the help. I'll let you know what I see in there.
-jeremy

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2000 Access Cab SR5

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Posts: 13 | From: San Luis Obispo, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

nhparrot
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posted 03-19-2002 11:39 AM
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Rubix,
From looking at a transmission assembly diagram, I don't think it is really a filter but a oil strainer that can be cleaned and re-used. I looked up the part # and it is about $50. By the way there are magnets in the pan for attracting metal particles.

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~Glenn~
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Posts: 493 | From: New Hampshire | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Rubix
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posted 03-19-2002 11:25 AM
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Does anybody replace their transmission oil filter when they pull the pan? I was thinking of flushing the AT this weekend and I was thinking that while I had the pan off, I would like to change the filter. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how easy it is to change and what filter to use?

Thanks.

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2000 Access Cab SR5

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Posts: 13 | From: San Luis Obispo, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

jkreese
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posted 03-01-2002 06:46 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by lelandstanford:
What's the purpose refilling ATF while old fluid is being pumped out? Can I just run the engine to pump out all or most of the fluid after tranny is warmed up?
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I believe you have to replace fluid as you pump it out to prevent the transmission from burning up. It's kind of like you wouldn't drain out all your engine oil while the engine is running...therefore, you wouldn't drain out all your tranny oil while the engine is running.

Ciao.
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Posts: 18 | From: Park City, UT | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

lelandstanford
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posted 03-01-2002 02:55 PM
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What's the purpose refilling ATF while old fluid is being pumped out? Can I just run the engine to pump out all or most of the fluid after tranny is warmed up?

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Posts: 64 | From: Houston, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

jkreese
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posted 03-01-2002 02:11 PM
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Well...I just had a wild idea, but don't have the guts to try it.

Would the "2-bucket" method work if I were to use one of those pump devices that attach to your electric drill. You would then pump the new fluid into the intake hose while the old fluid is being pumped out of the output hose.

Any comments on whether this will work or not?

Ciao.
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Posts: 18 | From: Park City, UT | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

richus
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Rate Member posted 02-28-2002 07:53 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by jkreese:

I guess I would like to hear from those same members as to what they actually did. I wish I could remember who exactly said what.

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I happened to cut and paste someone's description from the old TS. Here it is (and it didn't work for me):

Probably the most thorough way of getting all of the old transmission fluid
out of the Tundra would be to drain the 4 or so quarts from the pan, then
disconnect the hoses at the transmission cooler in the radiator and let that
drain out, then re-install the transmission drain plug, then refill the 4
quarts (with new fluid) into the pan through dipstick tube, then connect a
transmission fluid flush machine to the transmission cooler tubes (or just
do the 2 - 5 gallon bucket trick), then start truck and flush out the
remainder of the old fluid while the transmission pump picks up the new
fluid from the machine (or bucket if doing that method). Once all of the old
fluid is out and all of the new fluid is in, reconnect the trans cooler
hoses and top off the transmission fluid level via the dipstick.
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Posts: 5 | From: cal | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

dr.mdds
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Rate Member posted 02-27-2002 09:21 PM
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I change my fluid by draining the pan and then adding 4 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF every 15,000 miles. I feel sure this will be more than adequate even though I may never get 100% Mobil 1 ATF.
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Posts: 11 | From: Louisiana | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

dr.mdds
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Rate Member posted 02-27-2002 09:20 PM
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I change my fluid by draining the pan and then adding 4 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF every 15,000 miles. I feel sure this will be more than adequate even though I may never get 100% Mobil 1 ATF.
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Posts: 11 | From: Louisiana | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

jkreese
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posted 02-27-2002 06:29 PM
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Well...I guess I'm not thoroughly convinced yet. I know we had a long, detailed thread in the "old" TundraSolutions that indicated that many members used the "2-bucket" method.

I guess I would like to hear from those same members as to what they actually did. I wish I could remember who exactly said what.

Come on people! How have you been changing your tranny fluid?

Ciao.
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Posts: 18 | From: Park City, UT | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

userw5
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posted 02-22-2002 09:05 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by jkreese:
Hello there.

Now I am thoroughly confused. When we had this discussion in the "old" thread, many Tundra owners were raving about the "2-bucket" method. Now, we're being told, that the "2-bucket" method doesn't work.

OK...if you drain 1, 2 or 4 quarts out of the hose or pan, and then add the same amount through the dipstick tube, doesn't the new fluid mix with the old? I.e., you would never have a 100% flush using this method...right?

Ciao.
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Thats correct, you will never get to 100%, but you can get well over 90%. Which is probably adequate. If you are draining the pan hopefully all of the 'bad stuff' will have settled on the bottom and gets drained out.

Jeff
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Posts: 70 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

jkreese
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posted 02-22-2002 07:28 AM
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Hello there.

Now I am thoroughly confused. When we had this discussion in the "old" thread, many Tundra owners were raving about the "2-bucket" method. Now, we're being told, that the "2-bucket" method doesn't work.

OK...if you drain 1, 2 or 4 quarts out of the hose or pan, and then add the same amount through the dipstick tube, doesn't the new fluid mix with the old? I.e., you would never have a 100% flush using this method...right?

Ciao.
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Posts: 18 | From: Park City, UT | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Dude Boy
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posted 02-21-2002 09:52 PM
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quote:
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Originally posted by hovisimo:
will having the tranny flushed and refilled with synthetic give me smoother shifts?
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Ryan:

Does yours shift a lot smoother when it's cold? Mine shifts like a dream during the warmup period, and then goes downhill from there.

Dude

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Here since Feb. '00

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Posts: 54 | From: Hood River, OR | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

userw5
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posted 02-21-2002 03:40 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by hovisimo:
will having the tranny flushed and refilled with synthetic give me smoother shifts?
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Yes, you should notice smother shifts.
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Posts: 70 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Garfield
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Member # 1108

posted 02-20-2002 08:23 PM
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The way i do the tranny is take the pan plug out and drain. next fill till dip stick shows full.Next remove the out flow hose off the rad that goes back to the tranny.Next get a longer hose and attatched it to the out flow on the rad. Next place hose into a quart clear jar.Next have someone start the truck and you watch the quart jar fill up , and then stop motor. Next add fresh oil down dip stick hole till full again.repeat this till clean fluid show comming out and then the whole system is done in twenty minutes.
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Posts: 8 | From: Canada | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

hovisimo
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posted 02-20-2002 01:52 PM
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will having the tranny flushed and refilled with synthetic give me smoother shifts?

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-Ryan

my page

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Posts: 248 | From: Pennsylvania | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

richus
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Rate Member posted 02-20-2002 01:09 PM
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Yep, I'll be doing some heavy towing, so I sprung for the 14 quarts of Redline.

I ended up using the methods described below (all new oil going in through the dipstick tube), but imagine my happiness at realizing that I have a big bucket full of $100 worth of oil that I now have to pour in a 0.5 inch diameter tube....

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Posts: 5 | From: cal | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Ross Kunce
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Rate Member posted 02-20-2002 11:35 AM
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Trying to flush the trans using the bucket method on a toyota won't work because the return line from the radiator cooler is not a suction line it just returnes to the trans, the only pressure is from the discharge side coming from the valvebody at a specified pressure. The best way to flush the trans is have a shop do it that uses a transmission flush machine that will push the fluid into the trans at the same rate as it is discharged, as a rule this service will cost about 100.00 dollars more or less and should be done every 30 k under normal driving and 15- 20k under towing or severe driving. If you tow a lot or run your truck hard might think about going to a synthetic trans fluid like Redline or something like that, synthetics can handle a lot more heat with out breaking down and causing excess wear
Ross K.

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ReToy

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Posts: 3 | From: Port Angeles Washington | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

Ring Steel
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Rate Member posted 02-20-2002 11:31 AM
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The transmission pumps the fluid out to the cooler, but it relies on that pressure to return the oil to the transmission... in other words it won't suck fluid up thru the return line.

I exchanged my fluid by:
- draining the pan
- refilling thru the dipstick
- draining out about 3 quarts from the supply line
- add 3 quarts to the dip stick.
and I repeated this until I hit 14 quarts.

Hope this helps.
Ring Steel
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Posts: 1 | From: Lufkin, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

KLS
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posted 02-20-2002 10:38 AM
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I didn't have any luck getting the return line to suck ATF, either. I pumped out two quarts, stopped the engine, added two quarts down the dipstick tube, and repeated this until I had the full 14 qt. flush.

Ken
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richus
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Rate Member posted 02-20-2002 09:25 AM
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Hi all,

I tried flushing the transmission fluid this weekend with the "two-bucket" method, but ran into a problem.

First I drained the pan (4 qts.) and added the 4 qts. of new oil through the trans. dipstick. Then, I disconnected the 2 hoses going into and out of the trans. cooler and placed each in a bucket. I started the truck to make sure I knew which hose the trans. pump would be pumping the old oil into. Once some oil came out of the "out" hose, I placed the "in" hose into a bucket of brand new oil to be sucked into the truck.

Unfortunately, after starting the truck again, plenty of the old oil pumped OUT of the truck, but none of the new oil was going in from the other bucket?

So, when I did my test to check which hose was OUT and which hose was IN, did I unknowingly add air to the system that prevented it from sucking in the new oil?

Thanks for any help.
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Posts: 5 | From: cal | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged

sxipro · #2 (**permalink**) 05-13-2007, 07:15 PM

Hi, I'm new here but when I was laid off at Delta Air Lines so I worked as a mechanic at a Toyota dealership in Tampa. We hooked two hoses(in and out) to the trans cooler to flush it with the motor running. I don't think you can get all of the old fluid out without doing this.

ddvk · #3 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 07:46 PM

The bucket thing is all non-sense.

The return line is always flowing outwards and there cannot be a hose that sucks fresh ATF in.... the only way it via the dip stick.

I have been flushing for years and there is no suck one end and send old fluid on another hose -- only way is via the machines or via the cooler.

Hi Volt · #4 (**permalink**) 08-26-2007, 05:33 PM

Hi all, I am new to the forum as of today. I have an '01 with 300,000 Km on it, and make the transmission work pretty good for it's oil (towing and drag racing ). I was using Castrol full synthetic until it was discontinued, and now use thier DexronIII blend. I get around to draining the pan and doing a refill about every 35,000 km, and so far the oil is always bright red and clean. I was having a delayed shift problem a couple of years ago and thought I would get a flush done at the dealership in case there was some contaminants lodged in the VB ( doesn't take much). The results of the flush didn't show an visable contaminants and also didn't solve the problem. Without getting too far off topic, I actually found that after cleaning the throttle body the problem went away as the transmission also uses the second TPS for shifting. As the Throttle control motor was compensating for a dirty throttle bore, the TPS sensors were also varying. Aside from keeping the throttle clean, I will continue to just do the normal oil changes until I see a sign of contaminats in the oil which would indicate an actual transmission problem.

Hi Volt

mungo · #5 (**permalink**) 08-26-2007, 07:46 PM

Well, I've done my own maintenance on cars for 25 years? I didn't think a complete flush was necessary unless you really burned up the transmission fluid towing or racing.

My three Toyota trucks, two Tacomas and now a Tundra, are the first vehicles I had with a drain plug in the tranny. Before that, you had to drop the pan with all the fluid in it. What a pain that was.

If you change your fluid, the normal way, at the specified intervals, or better if driven harder, why flush?