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Topic: Oil Filter Change
TundraBear
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 132
Member Rated:
posted 03-07-2002 10:24 PM
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I like the Fumoto valve & I just ordered the F103N and should get it shortly!
Thanks!
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Posts: 85 | From: Los Angeles, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Bruno
TS Supporter
Member # 299
Rate Member posted 03-01-2002 10:50 AM
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Regarding the oil container and tight space, yeah it is kind of a snake dance to get that down and back. The container I used was pretty flexible, so it 'gave' at all of the right moments. The OJ container is not square, its kind of flat so it does give a few options for the twisting motion. First time it takes some planning, but after a couple you kind of get a feel for it.
Regarding the Fumoto. I got the 103N (with the nipple). I change the oil outside in my driveway and it's a fair drop from the bottom of the pan to the catch container and sometimes the wind whips the oil around. With the 103N, I am able to attach a small lenght of tube and direct it into the container with no problems at all. That nipple really doesn't stick out much, well above the skid plate, clearance no problem.
Had one on my old Subaru for years and worked great the whole time - never ever dripped one drop when closed off.
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Posts: 8 | From: Fairport, NY | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Tigertundra
TS Member
Member # 872
Member Rated:
posted 03-01-2002 10:36 AM
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Bruno
great recomendation , part number for that Fumoto valve, did you get F103?
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Posts: 22 | From: Dallas | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
userw5
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 48
Member Rated:
posted 03-01-2002 10:17 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by Bruno:
Being the lazy sort, I prefer to not remove the skidplate. I cut the side out of a 1 gallon OJ container (leaving the handle in place) and reach down and hold that (or sometimes rest it) under the filter as I spin it off with the other hand. Acts as an oil catch. Has worked slick thus far, not a drop.
Continuing with my lazy ways, I replace the original oil drain plug with a Fumoto valve.
With this combo, I can change the oil with no tools.
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Bruno,
I have a question to you or anyone who uses the one gallon jug method. I tried this on one of my earlier oil changes, but with a 1/2 gallon jug. I really had to push and shove to get the jug past everything hanging off the engine. I just do not see an opening where a 1/2 or gallon jug fits into real easy to get down under the filter. Am I missing something?
I remove the skidplate now. It gives me a chance to check out everyting from underneath. It only takes about 5 extra minutes.
Thanks,
Jeff
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Posts: 70 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Bruno
TS Supporter
Member # 299
Rate Member posted 03-01-2002 09:08 AM
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Being the lazy sort, I prefer to not remove the skidplate. I cut the side out of a 1 gallon OJ container (leaving the handle in place) and reach down and hold that (or sometimes rest it) under the filter as I spin it off with the other hand. Acts as an oil catch. Has worked slick thus far, not a drop.
Continuing with my lazy ways, I replace the original oil drain plug with a Fumoto valve.
With this combo, I can change the oil with no tools.
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Posts: 8 | From: Fairport, NY | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
mytundra
TS Member
Member # 370
Rate Member posted 03-01-2002 07:55 AM
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I purchased an oil filter relocation kit from Summit Racing. My filter is now located on the inner fender, under the battery. No removing the skid plate, no mess, and I get to use a larger filter! Well worth the $40 investment.
Just my 2cents.
Jeff
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Posts: 3 | From: Monument, CO | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
babylanci
TS Supporter
Member # 485
Rate Member posted 03-01-2002 07:36 AM
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Yes, bolts stretch a little when torqued. That is what holds the joint together and stops the bolts from backing out. On Aerospace applications because a low factor of safety requirements aka less weight, many of the bolts are torqued to yield, thus imparting a slight permanent elongation. With proper heat treating of the bolts, the yield strength can be controlled thus allowing a consistent load on each bolt. On the Tundra, probably the head and main bolts are torqued to yield. Most other bolts are torqued to proof strength which is 90% of the yield strength, thus still in the elastic range of the material. If you have a service manual which shows recommended torques for bolts, this the torque for stretch corresponding to proof strength. I have had my skid plate off several times and the bolt bottoms out before the yield limit is reached.
By the way, what is the correct size for the brass washer?
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Posts: 5 | From: Seymour, IN | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Red Hornet
TS Supporter
Member # 638
posted 03-01-2002 07:07 AM
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RE: Oil Filter Change. Regardless of your method for Oil Change, toss that fiber oil pan bolt washer gasket & replace with a brass one. The brass will expand when hot & give the perfect seal; last the lifetime of the truck. *Magnetic* oil bolt with *brass* washer was OE old 1968 Volvo.
Cheers,
RH
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......AUTOLITE *sta-ful* Batteries.....
~Needs Water Only 3 Times a Year~
-old battery ad
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Posts: 41 | From: SoCAL | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
userw5
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 48
Member Rated:
posted 03-01-2002 04:47 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by Cloud 9:
Everytime you remove a bolt and reinstall and TORQUE it, you actually stretch the bolt a little. We are so extreme on this at my work that we NEVER use a flight bolt twice (I help build commercial satellites for Boeing Space Systems).
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Next time I take my Tundra into Space, I'll take that into consideration!
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Posts: 70 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Cloud 9
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Member # 417
Member Rated:
posted 03-01-2002 12:03 AM
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I did what EDJ did (use the gallon sized freezer ziplock) and only spilled a couple of drops of oil, which were caught by a rag that I laid down in the skidplate before I started. A lot of folks like to remove the skidplate, but I am going to keep that to a minimum for one reason; I don't want to exercise those fasteners over and over and over again. Everytime you remove a bolt and reinstall and TORQUE it, you actually stretch the bolt a little. We are so extreme on this at my work that we NEVER use a flight bolt twice (I help build commercial satellites for Boeing Space Systems). Of course, that's extreme and we aren't putting our trucks through the same dynamics as a launch vehicle gives to a spacecraft (course, then again, offroading sure has it's share of dynamics working on the truck structure, doesn't it?). An oil change every 3,000 miles would mean you've exercised those fasteners 33 times the first 100,000 miles. I'd say that if you choose to do that, you should probably replace the fasteners every 10-15 oil changes. Anyway, that's why I went with the ziplock method. Just use two hands, one to hold the bag and one to hold the filter so you can EASE it into the bag once it reaches it's last thread on the engine block. All that said, I think that the next time I change the filter, I'm going to crack it loose with the filter wrench, then put the ziplock bag over it, then for some added safety, put a rubber band around the outside of the bag and around the filter, then spin the filter and bag together to remove. That way there may be no worry of dropping the filter into the bag of oil. I agree that we need to figure out a way to put a little more safety into the ziploc bag method, and will post whatever I learn next oil change.
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2002 Limited 4x4 Access cab, TRD offroad pkg, LSD, Weatherguard pkg, leather, Snugtop Supersport with BedRug.
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Posts: 92 | From: Redondo Beach, California | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Wadingboy
TS Member
Member # 108
Member Rated:
posted 02-28-2002 10:05 PM
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There's millions waiting for whoever wants to help me invent a gadget that prevents this problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!! All my vehicles REQUIRE clean up after, no matter what strategy I try, and the cussing never seems to help.
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Posts: 24 | From: Laytonville, Ca. | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
SATundra
Moderator
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 73
Member Rated:
posted 02-28-2002 04:30 PM
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I always like to take the skid plate off. Makes changing MUCH easier, plus you get a chance to see everything on the bottom side of the motor.
SATundra
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2001, SR5, V8, 4x2, Access Cab, Metallic Silver Sky
MODS: Better Built alum toolbox w/lights 2 inside 2 outside, lots of antennas, CB/Ham/Scanner/linear amp all mounted in custom made console, 10 disc CD player, DEI Sidewinder 5000 ESP alarm, undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, underhood light, TRD add-a-leaf (ordered), Lund bugshield, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, tinted windows, fuzzbuster hard wired, 4 block power terminal under dash, 12V Acc plug engine compartment, synthetic oils, fog light mod, cargo light mod, acc plug mod, map light mod, back seat angle mod soon, 2 TS stickers (back windows), 2 TS license plate frames (front, rear)
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Posts: 461 | From: San Antonio, TX | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
TennesseeTundraMan
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Member # 571
Member Rated:
posted 02-28-2002 03:58 PM
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I use what someone else used on the site, a large trash bag. I have not had any problem this way. I open the bag and spread it out and it catches all the oil. Then lift the bag out.
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Posts: 7 | From: Memphis, TN | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Roadrunner
TS Member
Member # 1748
posted 02-28-2002 02:44 PM
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I gave up on trying to catch oil from getting on the skidplate.I lay old tee shirt or other absorbing rag under filter and then change it being carful not to get any oil on the surpentime belt.I then remove old rag.I still got some oil on the skid plate so I mix up a bucket of warm water with dish washing detergent and pour down around filter.If any drops of oil happened to get on the belt and the oil that got on skid plate just got washed on the ground.Clean the floor and all is clean.Works for me.This is another good reason for changing to synthetic oil.You don't have to do it nearly as often.
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Posts: 2 | From: Buckhannon,WV | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
aika
TS Supporter
Member # 87
Member Rated:
posted 02-27-2002 10:06 PM
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i was a moron when i replaced my oil and didnt take my skidplate off and got oil all over the skidplate. well it turns out that i had to take the skidplate off anyways to clean up the mess. to the guy that got oil all over his skidplate- take it off and clean it with warm water and tide washing detergent. works great- heck i washed the garage floor with that stuff too when i got oil on that and the concrete came out looking really really clean. ive gotten my oil changed at IFFY lube up north, and apparently theyve already gotten used to taking skidplates off, because im missing three bolts from mine (they also lost my oil cap). so i started changing my own oil. for any others out there- change your own oil...
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Posts: 154 | From: San Diego, CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Topic: Oil Filter Change
ElDiabloJoe
Moderator
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 252
Member Rated:
posted 02-27-2002 02:46 PM
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I should have elaborated, I use the gallon freezer type ziplocks. A bit bigger, a bit thicker. Just like I tell the Mrs. I tell her it won't let spill all over.
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Posts: 222 | From: Orange Co., CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Tigertundra
TS Member
Member # 872
Member Rated:
posted 02-27-2002 01:59 PM
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EDJ
I did the same as you but I guess I didn't use a big enough zip lock, qt size, or didn't hold it under the filter well enough to catch the oil. just wasn't expecting that much oil since the filer is tipped down when attached.
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Posts: 22 | From: Dallas | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
ElDiabloJoe
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Member # 252
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posted 02-27-2002 09:06 AM
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I wrap the ziplock around the oil fitler prior to unscrewing it. Then I use one of those "cup" type oil filter wrenches used in conjunction with a socket wrench. I work the socket wrench with one hand, and use the other to hold the lip of the ziplock bag up to catch the trail of draining oil until I've finished unscrewing the oil filter. Then I drop the filter in the bag, wipe the engine block off, and drop the disposable rag in the zip lock and then zip it shut.
Seems to work most of the time, but others seem to have better luck or an easier time than this method.
EDJ
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The monthly meeting of the Vast Right Wing conspiracy will be held at the same place, same time. Pass it on.
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Posts: 222 | From: Orange Co., CA | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
TundraWolf
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Member # 30
Member Rated:
posted 02-26-2002 09:00 PM
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I used the ZipLock method successfully right up until I tried to pull it out. I carefully laid the Bag under the filter and against the block. screwed the filter most of the way out and let it drain into the bag. Then I finished and set the filter into the bag... BIG mistake. Then when I went to pull out the bag and its contents, the wall collapsed and let oil leak down the skidplate. I think it would have worked fine had I just pulled the filter out.
Fortunately, I don't have to tackle it again for a few months. I keep thinking that I should by the skidplate but don't really have a need for it otherwise.
EDJ... did your oil change work out pretty well?
Kim
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2002 Thunder Gray SR5 4x4. Dreaming of Line-X and a SnugTop.
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Posts: 41 | From: Klamath Falls, OR | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
nhparrot
Moderator
Platinum TS Supporter
Member # 12
posted 02-26-2002 09:09 AM
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I take off my skidplate and then hold a coffee can under the filter to catch the oil as I unscrew it. Drop the filter in the can and leave the coffee can under to catch any oil draining. Then empty the can into my oil drain pan.
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~Glenn~
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Posts: 493 | From: New Hampshire | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
BVS
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Member # 671
Member Rated:
posted 02-26-2002 09:07 AM
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Tigertundra
if you're looking to do some off roading there is a new skid plate from
www.skidplates.com
check out
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/cgi-b...=1&t=000124&p=
The skid plate was also setup to make oil changes easier.
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www.SkidPlates.com
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Posts: 48 | From: Pennsylvania | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Red Hornet
TS Supporter
Member # 638
posted 02-26-2002 08:46 AM
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Oil change strategies ...
Have not tried the Zip-Loc method. My latest oil change strategy is to put a dedicated small plastic tub w/newspaper & small amt of kitty litter under the back edge of the skid plate where the oil drains off. First put in a 13-gal Glad kitchen bag into the tub w/the edges spread out over the lip. Then add some newspaper from the Sport Pages & then some Scoop Kitty Litter.
Back off the filter a few turns and let 'er drain down the plate & into the collector. After the oil has drained partially out of the filter, carefully remove filter keeping the base as vertical as possible. Use some type of glove if the filter is hot. Mop up the top of the skid plate w/Scott Rags in a Box. You may want to put some additional newspapers from the Comic section or any ol' piece of cardboard, etc. under the oil change area also. When finished put the filter in a Zip Loc, dispose of properly.
cheers...
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......AUTOLITE *sta-ful* Batteries.....
~Needs Water Only 3 Times a Year~
-old battery ad
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Posts: 41 | From: SoCAL | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
mitchr
TS Member
Member # 751
Rate Member posted 02-26-2002 08:17 AM
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Take off you skid plate. It is a little more work but a lot less mess.
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Posts: 11 | From: Kingsport, Tn | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Tigertundra
TS Member
Member # 872
Member Rated:
posted 02-26-2002 07:56 AM
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I changed my oil and filter over to Mobil 1 syth and a Mobil 1 filter. I used the "ziploc" method of replacing the filter, but I got a large amount of oil onto the skid plate. I guess I'm not using the right technique with the bag, would some please explain how it should be done. thanks.
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Posts: 22 | From: Dallas | Registered: Feb 2002 | IP: Logged
Oil Filter Change
Linear Mode
